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I just put a new one on my John Deere last week...
What other Car projects that are non Mopar does anyone have going on right now?
- Thread starter Donny
- Start date
ckessel
Well-Known Member
I got the F1 running recently. PTL and so far nor electrical shorts! I've moved/re-routed/deleted hundreds of wires on this rascal. Not done with the electrical yet, but doing good so far. I mocked up some wheel tubs, per the owners request, that would help solve the dilemma of rear suspension poking through the bed and I needed a spot for the new gas filler. The gas filler is from Hagan, they make those plus a lot of other cool rod stuff. With my patterns made, I transferred them to some 16 ga material, Cut them out and rolled the radiuses with the box brake. Don't have a slip roll at work so had the do it this way. The first one I rolled up, got a little messed up as I tried to roll it too much too soon so I took it home and ran it through the English Wheel to get it flattened back down for a redo. Got them welded up then I plotted out the hole in the rh one for the filler. Got it welded in before knocking off for the day.
Mike67
Well-Known Member
Didn't get to go to the shop yesterday because of a family reunion, went today.
My wife's Mustang had a Jegs electric fuel pump that she hated because of the noise. I had ordered a Holley Mighty Mite 12-427 which stated its rated for up to 400hp, her 302 is bone stock internally.
So I pulled the old pump, got everything swapped over hit the ignition and that thing sounded like a jack hammer! After it finally picked up it got quiet. Car fires right up, hold about 4.5lbs but would drop to 2.5-3lbs.
Not much on the instructions but it does state self regulating and priming, I'm hoping that is the bypass causing to drop.
Has anyone used these before? I let it sit for about an hour went and hit the key and you could hear the jackhammer sound ( although much quieter) for a few seconds then it stopped, ran very very quiet. Is that normally?
Thanks
My wife's Mustang had a Jegs electric fuel pump that she hated because of the noise. I had ordered a Holley Mighty Mite 12-427 which stated its rated for up to 400hp, her 302 is bone stock internally.
So I pulled the old pump, got everything swapped over hit the ignition and that thing sounded like a jack hammer! After it finally picked up it got quiet. Car fires right up, hold about 4.5lbs but would drop to 2.5-3lbs.
Not much on the instructions but it does state self regulating and priming, I'm hoping that is the bypass causing to drop.
Has anyone used these before? I let it sit for about an hour went and hit the key and you could hear the jackhammer sound ( although much quieter) for a few seconds then it stopped, ran very very quiet. Is that normally?
Thanks
Here is one of my more recent projects. I picked up this 30 Model A (my father is helping to unload) from a family friend that had past away. It has been off the road for about 6 years. The water pump failed that the fan went through the radiator. I hope to have it back up and running in a few months. Then next has been a longterm project of mine with a buddy. Its a 1960 Phoenix Convertible this a full resto. I am finally starting to see the end.
James From
PST
James From
PST
ckessel
Well-Known Member
I was asked to work on this Scrambler recently. The car needed a master cylinder replaced as the old was was peeing into the booster. The customer supplied the unit for the swap out. The job required me to pull the hood as I needed to move the booster sideways to access the outer nut on the master which is right up against the shock tower. I did a quick visual inspection to compare the old with the new and put it on. Flushed and bled. Then when I went to move it, no go as the brakes were applied. WTF moment! Cracked open the master fittings and got fluid out. Pulled the master off and checked the back side bore of the piston where the pushrod goes and the new one is .150 shallower. Ok. Adjust the booster pushrod back 150 plus a little more and reassemble. Test drove it, hit the brakes several times all is good. On the return back to the shop, the brakes are applying on there own. WTF again! Turns out that when the booster was kicked sideways then fastened down to its bracket, the pushrod came out further still. Bottomed out the rod adjuster which left it with 30-40 thou or so. All groovy now! Lesson learned. Measure the backside of the master and check for dimension differences before assuming its a go. More proof I don't walk on water and still have things to learn.
Bladecutter
"Pursuit of Shape"
When I bought this in 79, the rear portion of master was out. Spanish D'Bonaldi. Hall Pantera had one in stock, was only 105.00 with shipping. Goose has Girling brakes, same type as 289 AC Cobra. Master & booster are under dash & a bitch of a 'shoe horn it in". Friend of mine did the job, stripped a fitting, had to cut line, replace fitting, reflare line & tap the threads in cylinder & coax it all back together. All four brakes working evenly & solidly again. But after brakes were worked some & fluid heated & expanded, the front brakes would start clamping. Buddy didn't back the rod off. So temporarily I carried a 10mm wrench so I could crack a line at a junction on front brakes under the hood. One day at Fwy speed they really tightened & burned the front pads to metal. Very large pads w/material bonded. Hall didn't have any, deTomaso didn't have any, so I drove up to a big brake house in Phoenix, they turned rotors & stripped, resurfaced the pad plates, rebonded & riveted new heavily scintered pad material for real reasonable money. Got back home & reassembled front brakes. I did not want to separate the lines from the master, so I removed the four booster/master nuts, managed to move master with lines attached far enough forward to slip a spring lock washer over each of the four studs on booster, let the master slide back over the studs & replaced/tightened the nuts. Perfect pedal, no more binding, even after repeated hard braking.
Called Hall & asked if He foresaw any problem with this band aid fix. About 10 seconds of silence & then, "****!!" I thought uh oh, I'm getting the razz. Then He says
" why the **** didn't I think of that!"
Verified to me what an absolute bitch of a job doing a master on a Mangusta is.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
One of the writers suggested that washer fix too if bottoming out the rod was not enough. My job was a breeze compared to yours! Yikes.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
I'm just about done with the F1. Waiting for the seat to get back, some rubber material to make a floor mat, install some minor interior parts, get some road time on it etc. After I got some more pieces in, I installed the updated[ by Classic] cluster in. Boy, that was fun with all the extra stuff now behind the dash. All of the gauges are working, did the calibration on the fuel and speedo per Classic's instructions. Very easy. When I was getting the back up lights going, had nothing happening so I started back probing circuits. Turned out that the trans range sensor, which contains the b/u switch, was not being powered up. Hmmmm. Checked that out and it turned out that one of the many circuits I removed was the one providing power to the TRS. Hooked it up and now have b/u lights on it. We found some small LED units to use and I made up some cans to mount them just above the tail lights. This week I put some Dynamat in it. The company I used in El Cajon for the firewall and floor pieces, Direct Sheetmetal, made up a pair of running boards for it. Got those mocked up and made up some frame mounts for them using 1x2 .120 wall tube. Drilled and tapped holes on the frame and used nutserts on the boards so there are no bolts going through the boards. Later on after he has had it for awhile and gets his funds built back up, he will hook up with my neighbor, who is a semi retired paint and body shop owner/master painter, and get flat clear applied plus have an associate of the painter do the glass work. The owner is stoked about how its coming out. He'll have an old beater looking truck that is modern underneath complete with a/c. Since its close enough now to being done, I turned in my walking papers to the boss. My wife and I are going to move to Washington where its less expensive to live. Once there I'll be semi retired working on my car and some selected projects. Getting more stiff and sore as the days go by so it will be nice to not have to beat myself up for $20 an hour.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
While I was was killing some time, I stripped out the main body harness to salvage connectors and wire for rodent damage jobs. We get quite a few vermin infestation jobs through the shop and its always nice to have the correct or as close as possible wire to do the fixes. That harness was 30+lbs of pasta!
joe smith
Well-Known Member
I was looking for a couple year old 911 vert and ended up with this BMW 650 vert.. It was so nice I couldn't resist.. Scared to death its going to break everytime I drive it and NOTHING on it is cheap...LOL ... WAY TOO much computer influence on it..
My 84 year old friend and neighbor wanted me to have HIS fathers 59 Biscayne which has been sitting in Colorado for 40 years . Well DUH.... Road Trip!! Car is Unbelievable COMPLETELY rust free, and Remarkably Intact . Everything free and in working order. So far evaluation needs , shows new fluids , the brake hydraulics, a fresh tune,and fuel. So far, just cleaned her up,inside and out, and buffed up the original laquer. 235 thrift six, 3 on the tree..... radio delete total cheapo Survivor ! Never thought I would own a Chebbie. But the price was right! I had to Rescue this Orphan. couldn't let it slip away. Don't worry, Mopar is still numero uno in my world!
Thunder
Thunder
Damn....so close. Car project - yes, non-Mopar - no. 
RF2
Active Member
Building a clone 1956 Ferrari monza. It will have a 3.0 Ferrari V8 out of a 1975 308 in it. If all goes to plan it should be a fun car to drive.
View attachment 560406 
View attachment 560406 
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I'm very fortunate! The car Gods have been good to me!
