What seals need to be changed in my 727

[eagleone1983]

Well in an effort to save time and money I've decided not to have my transmission rebuilt and just change the seals and install the B&M Transpak kit I have. The problem is I don't know which seals should be changed. Can anyone provide some insight so I don't miss anything when I head over to O'Reilly's. Thanks.

BTW the main reason I've decided not to actually rebuild the trans is because it ran fine minus some kickdown issues but hopefully I'll be solving that problem with the kickdown set up from Boucillion. Otherthan that is looks like it may have leaked a little from the extention housing gasket but that may just be run off from the engine since that thing had so much crud and leakage on it.

 

[MoparMitch]

Make sure you change the front pump seal and the tailshaft seal, Also the shift shaft seal on the side of the case. Check to see what is included in your Transpack kit first before buying. Hope that helps.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Make sure you change the front pump seal and the tailshaft seal, Also the shift shaft seal on the side of the case. Check to see what is included in your Transpack kit first before buying. Hope that helps.

X2, plus the dip stick tube o-ring. Also make sure the dip stick groove is not distorted to the point that the o-ring will not seal.

 

[eagleone1983]

Ok I will. Is the front pump seal the seal that the torque converter slips in? Also I know this is dumb but I'm going to be buying a torque converter from B&M once I figure out which one but does the teeth for the starter come on new torque converters? I know on the factory ones they are welded on. I also found out I need to make sure that my engine isn't externally balance otherwise I'll have to get a special flexplate. I don't think mine is since it is a late '67 383 block.

 

[eagleone1983]

oh and do I need any special tools to pull these seals, I have one of those axe looking seal pullers

 

[5.7 hemi]

That will work just fine.

 

[dpstark2]

Just my two cents regarding the Transpak, and I'm no expert-

First, I've had numerous kickdown issues due to a Lokar kickdown cable and Edelbrock carb. According to Rick at A&A trans, there should be about 3/16" free play between the kickdown lever cam (inside the transmission) and kickdown valve stem when it is fully extended from the valvebody (i.e., the valve is bottomed out in the valve body, but the spring is not compressed). If you don't do this, the valve cannot get pushed out far enough at low throttle pressures to get normal shift points. After adjusting my linkage so that 0 throttle equals ~0 lever pull and 100% throttle equals 100% lever pull with 3/16" play internally, I finally have a transmission that behaves somewhat normally- which leads me to part 2.

Second, I'm not sold on the instructions in the B&M kit to grind the throttle valve. I think this step is what primarily raises the shift points in the B&M kit. It is also one of the only irreversible steps. I would probably not do it, though someone here may know better than me. I haven't tested this, as I did grind mind to street/strip spec when doing the kit.

Third, I think the instructions are wrong regarding checkball #6. I think it should be removed for street/strip and race, not H-D and race. If you look at the diagrams, it serves to smooth application of the kickdown band when the accumulator fills. If you block off the accumulator or remove the spring, all this ball does is restrict fluid to the kickdown band. In a Mopar Muscle article (I think) they did this kit and did not install the blockoff rod but did remove the checkball. Basically, for me, with the checkball in, low throttle pressure 1-2 shifts are still pretty lazy.

Again, someone may know more than me, and I post this hoping someone will in fact know better. I'd like more information too! If it helps someone else- that's great too.