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what ta dooo...what ta dooo

tpodwdog

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ok...im getting a bug up my you know what to hypo my stock 383 automatic 70 roadrunner. my 1st roadrunner i went all balls out on building the engine...it also was a 383 and when i was done..IT WAS A SCREAMER. i dont want to get into all that again but heres what i want it to do:

1. i want to put a cam in it but i dont want to have to change all the pistons...rejet the carb...get a new intake bla bla bla.......because it runs great now, i just want a bit more

2. i want to put a throatier exhaust on it but i DONT want to dikk around with headers,,,from what i remember theyre a pain in the ***.

3. what are the new cams out there ( i been out of this for 30 years) that i can put in and thats all i have to do, and still have it run great???

i am not 100% sure i am even going to do this,,,,but i might if all i have to do is change the cam. any and all input would be great.:pottytrain3:
 
You know how it works, 1 thing leads to another. If you just want a rough idle stick in a small purpleshaft. If you are going for a cam, may as well change out the intake while you got it apart.If you want it to run strong, open up the exhaust with headers and/ or high flow mufflers. Its really a disease, once you get started it's hard to stop! New cars are easy, add an air box and a programmer and dial up the HP!
 
Yep

You know how it works, 1 thing leads to another. If you just want a rough idle stick in a small purpleshaft. If you are going for a cam, may as well change out the intake while you got it apart.If you want it to run strong, open up the exhaust with headers and/ or high flow mufflers. Its really a disease, once you get started it's hard to stop! New cars are easy, add an air box and a programmer and dial up the HP!

:iamwithstupid: Very well said...
 
In keeping with your requirements of not changing pistons or adding headers you are pretty limited in cam selection if you want a really nice driver. Any time you put in a high overlap cam your compression should go up as well or your bottom end and throttle response will suffer. All I can say is be conservative on the cam selection. Keep the lobe separation at 112 or higher and the cranking compression at 175 PSI to handle pump 91. With manifolds, a split pattern cam usually works best. Also run larger than stock exhaust pipe like 2.5" with 2.25" tails. A cheap .4 - .5 point of compression increase can be done by substituting the composition head gaskets for steel shim. Adding a set of factory closed chamber heads will bump it another .5 point but that's not cheap!
 
You know how it works, 1 thing leads to another. If you just want a rough idle stick in a small purpleshaft. If you are going for a cam, may as well change out the intake while you got it apart.If you want it to run strong, open up the exhaust with headers and/ or high flow mufflers. Its really a disease, once you get started it's hard to stop! New cars are easy, add an air box and a programmer and dial up the HP!


yeah...i know how it is 68 dude...but being that i have not built an engine since i was 20 and did it in the bedroom of my trailer (true story yes i was poor white trailer trash in my yout ),,,i thought MAYBE that there was a CHANCE that PERHAPS there might be something modern that could give me what i was looking for , but i DO know that everything is connected to everything else, and i just dont want to get into all that again, thanx guyz for all the input...'presheeate it !:headbang:
 
What about a bigger CFM carb? no cam change?

The stock carb has plenty of total CFM, however a carb that is designed for today's fuel will be a benefit. 600 - 650 CFM on a stock 383 should be plenty. Or if you really want to have the ultimate in drivability go with a fuel injection setup.
 
yep

In keeping with your requirements of not changing pistons or adding headers you are pretty limited in cam selection if you want a really nice driver. Any time you put in a high overlap cam your compression should go up as well or your bottom end and throttle response will suffer. All I can say is be conservative on the cam selection. Keep the lobe separation at 112 or higher and the cranking compression at 175 PSI to handle pump 91. With manifolds, a split pattern cam usually works best. Also run larger than stock exhaust pipe like 2.5" with 2.25" tails. A cheap .4 - .5 point of compression increase can be done by substituting the composition head gaskets for steel shim. Adding a set of factory closed chamber heads will bump it another .5 point but that's not cheap!

:iamwithstupid: well said.... great advise...
 
What about a bigger CFM carb? no cam change?


right now as it sits, there is a holley 4 BBL on it. it works perfect with the air grabber hood and gasket. i believe the holley is a 650 cfm and its brand new put on by the dude i bought it from. this engine is set up perfectly and thats why i am apprehensive to F*$@ with it. the fast idle is perfect and i doubt the starter turns even once when starting hot or cold. absolutely no issues what-so-ever. it fires right up everytime ! maybe i will just leave well enough alone. i got all my ya-ya's out when i was a kid ...i just wanted to see if there was anything available that was modern ! thanx a million guyz!:headbang:
 

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Only updated things you can do is to upgrade to fuel injection or roller cam.
But if it not broke, and your happy with what you have, I would leave it alone.

Both can be pricey, and you might not be happy with the performance results, compared to with what you have now.
 
I'd be inclined to not make any big changes if it runs that well. However I would want some data out of it. Do a compression check and plot the timing curve. Almost any engine can do better by dialing in the timing. Focus on maximizing what you have.
 
After building my stroker 440 to 493 and spending ALL SUMMER getting it dialed in I would say just leave it alone and go freakin enjoy the **** out of it :) I am finally getting to enjoy long drives in my beast lol good thing we have good dry weather here right now.
 
yeah...thanx for the input guys but i think i will leave well enuff alone! "if it aint broke,,,,,dont fix it"
 
ok...im getting a bug up my you know what to hypo my stock 383 automatic 70 roadrunner. my 1st roadrunner i went all balls out on building the engine...it also was a 383 and when i was done..IT WAS A SCREAMER. i dont want to get into all that again but heres what i want it to do:

1. i want to put a cam in it but i dont want to have to change all the pistons...rejet the carb...get a new intake bla bla bla.......because it runs great now, i just want a bit more

2. i want to put a throatier exhaust on it but i DONT want to dikk around with headers,,,from what i remember theyre a pain in the ***.

3. what are the new cams out there ( i been out of this for 30 years) that i can put in and thats all i have to do, and still have it run great???

i am not 100% sure i am even going to do this,,,,but i might if all i have to do is change the cam. any and all input would be great.:pottytrain3:

when I bought my 69 RR I was told that the engine was stock. Come to find out it had a 509 Purple cam in it. The rest was stock. It didn't run that well. No vacuum. A well running engine needs a good combo of stuff. Simply changing one piece may not give you what your after. However, after lots of reading, if I were to change only one thing, It would be getting the heads done to let it breath better.
 
plugs, wires, new dist., and more timing! cheap and quick....and if you bump the timing a bit and don't like it, dial her back! :headbang:
 
if i do say so myself....it is gorgeous...and dead *** bone stock ..(except for the superbird decals that i just HAD to have)...and it does run great too. i doubt theres a hot cam in it.....but there might be,,,i never checked. thanx for the help guyz!!!
 
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