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What to do?

Guess from what I been reading maybe that's my problem, but wouldn't I need a converter around the 2500 range? What does hemi converter stall at?

Stall doesn't much matter if you mash it. The milliseconds it takes the motor to get past flash should not effect your ability to spin the tires. Now if you are easing into it, yeah stall matters.

As far as what converter you need...that is generally a recommendation for the type of cam you have and best answered by the cam manufacturer.
 
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Well I asked Hughes engines they said anything from stock to 2800 they not converter experts but I have e mailed dynamic and AandA
 
What Intake manifold are you running... Stock 4V or aftermarket... I have an Edlebrock 383 Torker on mine which is a mistake, in that its a single plane manifold. They don't really start to make good power until at least 2000 RPM.

On my 66 Charger 383 with the Edlebrock torker manifold and Edelbrock 600CFM carb, and a stock 2.93 rear end and p235x60x14 tires, and the Hemi torque converter. It will only leave a tiny chirp if i floor it from idle, then bog a little before coming on strong from 2500-5000 RPM. However, hold the brake and bring up the RPM's to about 2000 (to match the single plane manifold) and stomp it releasing the brake and it will squeal the tires for nearly 50 ft!!
 
Yea you would think since they supposedly make the cam they would know what converter to use. Kinda makes you wonder. And I have the performer RPM
 
I have a stock converter and can smoke the tires right off with out a brake but hey a 493 is good for that :)

I agree with checking timing and compression, leak down test does not hurt and will tell you allot about how your heads are set up. With the cam you have and manifold you are in the right direction for low end power, just need to find the one thing that is holding it back. Try hotter spark plug too maybe. Make sure choke is set up right as well. I find that these all play into it a little.
Assuming you have a vacuum advanced distrib. check timing with the vac hose off.
 
Thanks fellas I get home next Wednesday and bought a new timing light waiting there so I will give her a goin thru and keep you all posted
 
stupid question: are you SURE you have a 3.23? only reason i ask is when i bought my super bee the fender tag said 3.23 sure grip, the guy i bought it from said it had a 3.23 sure grip, and i couldn't get it to spin the tires for nothing...just a chirp and that's it.....so i pulled it apart and what do i find? a 2.76 open diff.....dont know if you put in the gears yourself, just a thought.
 
provided the engine is healthy compression should be 150 psi +

I would start by checking how much vacuum you have. I would bet it's around 10-11 a bit on the low side.

Your whiplash cam in that thing gives you anything but whiplash. It's way too big for the setup you have.

In my opinion you should look at something like a 220 in duration cam like a voodoo cam or if you like Hughes a 219 in duration.
Dual plane intake like performer or performer rpm

Just with that your car will wake up with proper timing @ 36 total
 
Well I have not had much time to do the timing I checked it but looked spot on I changed the carb to a 670 Holley street avenger and that woke up the sleeping giant!
 
So does that mean it's frying the tires? I've watched the you tube and it does sound good.
 
Well it does a lot better than it did that's for sure. Has anybody messed with the avengers? Mine is electric choke and it would not idle below 1200 after it was hot. So I ended up taking choke assembly off now it idles fine.
 
Guess from what I been reading maybe that's my problem, but wouldn't I need a converter around the 2500 range? What does hemi converter stall at?


I'm no expert, but I believe a Hemi torque converter has around a 2800 stall speed. If your Cam says the sweet spot is 1800-4500 RPM and you sit at idle of 750 then by the time you get to the 1800 RPM your already at about 5-10 MPH and your not going to spin the tires. So what...

I would suggest simply checking the compression to make sure its good, and the timing should be at 12 btdc or more... if that is all good then simply hold the brake and bring RPM's up to about 1500-2000 then punch her..and ill bet you burn the tires off... i.e bring it up to the sweet spot to launch.. ... I have the same issue with mine, and my cam is about the same, also with "hemi" converter, which i believe is about a 2800 RPM stall speed... so you can easily bring up the revs to the 1800 sweet spot before launching.

Heck yes, i know the lowly 318 is capable of burning the tires, when i was a teenager, my Dad had a 68 Coronet with stock 318, and it would burn about 30ft if floored from dead start. But that was with stock 7.75 X 14 tires, and remember the 318 was built for low-end torque not flat out quarter mile speed!! I believe it was around 17.5 in quarter mile...slow by todays standards. But it was a good low end torque engine, even the 2 barrel on a 318 has a higher CFM than does the primaries on the Eddy 4 barrel... remember the secondaries dont open till around 3,000 rpm!!
 
well i changed carb to 670 avenger holley and seems to do better havin problems with boiling fuel. and gears turning in my head if the stock hp manifolds are holding me back
 
Hemi converter is 2800 stall. You have a tach right? Pull it into gear and push the brake and give it gas. Hold that brake tight and see what rpm you are at when it starts to push. Another thing with the timing is advance curve. Your total timing should be in by 2000 rpm. If not it will be way down on power in the lower rpm range.
 
Just a thought. What do you mean by stock bottom end? Does it have the original pistons and did you use .040 head gaskets instead of .018 steel head gaskets like the factory? Quality control wasnt the best back in the day and a .040 gasket could drop your compression a bit. Maybe enough to hurt your low end?
 
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