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What's the best head

earlytime

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Which is the best head to use when rebuilding a 440 motor??? The head will have work done to it also like port and polish.

Thanks Mike
 
If you are referring to factory iron heads then I would say the 915 followed by the 906. The early Max Wedge heads have big ports but are designed on old technology and are expensive.
 
If I'm going to use a factory head, I'm going with a closed chamber one but that's limited in what ones are the best. Like Meep said, the 915 is one but they are not cheap. Next for me would be the 516 but those will need some help in the ports and exhaust valve is smaller. Problem with old factory heads is the cost to bring them up to par vs buying a set of aftermarket heads.
 
You want a set of these.....915's
 

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These days with the cost od machine work you are better of to buy a set of basically bolt on resd Edel. aluminum heads rather than rework old heads.
 
I run 906 heads with high compression pistons to compensate for open chamber head design. but the 906's are supposed to flow better then closed chamber units. I have a buddy who runs a machine shop out of his garage and got all of my machine work done on the whole engine, port polish, bigger valves, hardened seats, bored block, balanced rotating assy, ect. all for 250 bucks. I don't know what an average machine shop would charge but I think it's way cheaper to run the iron heads. I got the heads for 100 bucks.
 
I run 906 heads with high compression pistons to compensate for open chamber head design. but the 906's are supposed to flow better then closed chamber units. I have a buddy who runs a machine shop out of his garage and got all of my machine work done on the whole engine, port polish, bigger valves, hardened seats, bored block, balanced rotating assy, ect. all for 250 bucks. I don't know what an average machine shop would charge but I think it's way cheaper to run the iron heads. I got the heads for 100 bucks.

They charge LOTS more than that at a standard engine machine shop!
 
BTW,
Don't ever add up your reciepts..... But if you cant stand the urge, for gods sake,,, DONT LET THE WIFE SEE!!!!!!
 
I run 906 heads with high compression pistons to compensate for open chamber head design. but the 906's are supposed to flow better then closed chamber units. I have a buddy who runs a machine shop out of his garage and got all of my machine work done on the whole engine, port polish, bigger valves, hardened seats, bored block, balanced rotating assy, ect. all for 250 bucks. I don't know what an average machine shop would charge but I think it's way cheaper to run the iron heads. I got the heads for 100 bucks.

Thats all the 915's cost me....
 
cheaper to go aluminum heads if you want performance.. a stock overhaul of two heads with guides, seats, and seals is around $550 a pair.

best heads out there? Indy's IMHO.
 
So tell me why is an aluminum set such a great deal when its twice the cost???
 
So tell me why is an aluminum set such a great deal when its twice the cost???
A better combustion chamber, better plug placement, better ports and very light weight just to name a few.....old vs new....
 
A better combustion chamber, better plug placement, better ports and very light weight just to name a few.....old vs new....

Yes and what I said in my first post in this thread, these Edel. or 440 Source heads come with the combustion chamber already dressed for performance. In other words they are already ported and polished. Aluminum heads displace the heat faster than an iron head and allow you to run higher compression with the same engine that has iron heads.

For the average guy running a cammed, headered 440 that is looking to do a little more and is thinking of working his heads over the price difference between the Edel. or 440 Source stealth heads is minimal vs. the better 3 or 5angle valve job and machine work to port and polish the heavier stock iron heads.

If you are a serious racer and looking for more the above suggested Indy heads MAY be a consideration but they are A LOT more money. For the average guy and the money comparison the Edel. or 440 Source heads are the way to go.
 
I always like free head best.

Don't think this has gone by un-noticed.

There is no such thing as FREE head. You can wine and dine it, marry it or just directly pay for it. If you think the first two are FREE you haven't added up all the hidden costs and believe me it is MUCH cheaper to pay for it directly but NONE of it is FREE.:hello2::argue::bootyshake::poke::tongueflap::toothy1::p:thinker::pimp_daddy::head_smack::eek:ccasion14::thatswck::male::3some::buttkick:
 
The question "What is the best head" realy opens a can of worms.... Best for fuel economy, best for performance, best for this or that...... Impossible to say for sure, and too many opinions on "the best".
It's slowly becoming more affordable to purchase aftermarket heads these days, and a lot of them do out perform the stock heads from a Horsepower aspect virtualy un-touched / out of the box.
I'm going to go out on the limb of negative feed back and tell you to look into the Pro-Comp Victor heads available. They realy are a nice looking head, and flow BIG numbers. It's just a copy of the Edelbrock Victor heads at a VERY reduced price! Now as I stated in another thread on FBBO, you'll find a lot of bashing towards the Procomp name, but I can tell you first hand, that the head looks Great! They do purchase valves from a few different manufactures because they try to keep the cost down for you. I know for fact they use ferrea and Manley Stainless valves. Mine have Ferrea valves in them. I tested for leaky valves before installing them, checked for play in the valve stem, inspected the height of the valves.... Everything seemed to be in check. Remember that if you look hard enough, you'll find something or someone giving negative feedback towards any given product.
I think you'll have to decide what you realy need for the intended use of this engine, and then do plenty of shopping comparing prices.....
My 2 cents
 
Don't think this has gone by un-noticed.

There is no such thing as FREE head. You can wine and dine it, marry it or just directly pay for it. If you think the first two are FREE you haven't added up all the hidden costs and believe me it is MUCH cheaper to pay for it directly but NONE of it is FREE.:hello2::argue::bootyshake::poke::tongueflap::toothy1::p:thinker::pimp_daddy::head_smack::eek:ccasion14::thatswck::male::3some::buttkick:

LMAO VERY TRUE TOO!!! :ufo:
 
It was there for the taking& I got another post!On a serious note if I could do it over again on my 63 Fury,I would have went with aluminum heads.For all benefits mentioned.I remember 440 Source being around in 1999. Edlebrock & Indy were out my budget back then.Looking back I should have bit the bullet did it right.
 
It was there for the taking& I got another post!On a serious note if I could do it over again on my 63 Fury,I would have went with aluminum heads.For all benefits mentioned.I remember 440 Source being around in 1999. Edlebrock & Indy were out my budget back then.Looking back I should have bit the bullet did it right.



I did what you said you did. My first eng that was in my 63 since 2006 was a 906 headed 440 I built. It ran a best of 11.49 and really ran good for the combo. Now that I had the money to build a stronger eng I went with a stroker kit and Indy EZ heads this time around. I hope it runs high 10's but have not got to the track yet. Ron
 
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