Wheel Controversy

[67 B-body]

It's your car! put whatever you like on it! If someone tells you they don't like your wheels most likely they are jealous, let the hater's hate! Good luck in your choice and let's see some pics of that Charger!

I dont like the big wheel look and I'm NOT jealous! It's my opinion..... Just as asked by the OP.
I agree with the concept, "it's your car, do what you want". I do however know, that we all have likes and dislikes concerning cars and wheel choices. Like another post commented, I too skipp by the ones with the big 20" wheels and rubber bands for tires. To me, it just looks awfull.
In short, you have to do what you feel is right, and enjoy YOUR car for what it is.... Just dont be offended by those who cant stand the look of the big tires on old muscle cars, it's just an opinion.

 

[67 B-body]

New style, but classic "muscle" size.

 

[Cranky]

Waygun said it! "The wheels should also compliment the car---not overtake the car's looks." When I see 20's on a Neon with 1" sidewalls, it make me laugh. I have no idea if a 20 would fit a Neon but you get my drift. Most big wheels are also very heavy and that will affect breaking and handling.

 

[ga66mopar]

i find that the car was not built for that size tire and rim and it simply does not look good on it.
the wheel wells on the new cars are designed to match the larger tires and wheels of today, that 69 has fender wells that in my opinion that do not flow well with that size rim.

steve

I agree with the above statement .
To me the old muscle cars looks like **** with big wheels and low profile tires. I do have to say that some of the big full size GM and ford cars from the fifties and early sixes like 58 impalas look ok lowered down with bigger wheels. But b-bodies, chevelles , camaros look terribly. I'm not really an old guy being in my mid forties but I think they had the look right in the sixes that I haven't seen improved.
I also don't like shaved door handles. Just my opinion

 

[gremlinsteve]

i think those 17's look ok on that car. those 20's do not fit it. i keep thinking "donk" to myself when i see it.
i think i could live with the 17s tho.

steve

 

[pgkeating]

Besides just the look......,

the tire/wheels effect ride. I've said this before, but it bears repeating....

When these cars were designed, the engineers took all the suspension components into account. That is, the (size of) the side wall of the tire, torsion bar spring rate, travel distance (to the bump stop) and shocks were all calculated.

When the side wall is reduced (too much), the rest of the suspension has to take up the slack (or what's left of the slack). Generally this was a bad compromise and big wheels tend to go out of round (from potholes etc) as a result. There's just nowhere for that energy to go.

Case in point-

Years ago I was chasing the 61-64 Lincolns. I was speaking with a guy in CT., @ Bakers Auto, who specializes in early Lincolns. These cars were "donked" a lot, sometimes with 22s. The old gentleman said he takes in cars several times a year, that owner were complaining about handling. He said that 9 out of 10 times, the wheels were bent.....

This was the explanation he gave me and it stuck with me.

Make sense?

Just my .02

Pete

 

[696pack]

the tire/wheels effect ride. I've said this before, but it bears repeating....

When these cars were designed, the engineers took all the suspension components into account. That is, the (size of) the side wall of the tire, torsion bar spring rate, travel distance (to the bump stop) and shocks were all calculated.

When the side wall is reduced (too much), the rest of the suspension has to take up the slack (or what's left of the slack). Generally this was a bad compromise and big wheels tend to go out of round (from potholes etc) as a result. There's just nowhere for that energy to go.

This is all good info to go along with choices for wheels and absolutely correct.

How many people here know that in the late 60s/early 70s that B bodies with 15" wheels from the factory had a 1/2" spacer plate installed in the suspension so the cars were less likely to not bottom on the suspension bump stops?

 

[EV2 GTX]

Typically this is a change in thinking with the age of the person......
I think 6 pack says it well in his post, the difference in years and thinking...as well as what the car was designed for...those low pro wheels with large diameter must ride like a box car....I can only imagine though.

One thing about wheels....you can always change them if you don't like 'em! Sure you have to sell and lose some$ but not like some other things we do...

It's your car, if you like them..put 'em on. :grin:

 

[MiamiMopar]

IMO if they are tasteful, they will work. They can also, when done correctly improve the handling and safety of the car by allowing big brake kits to be fitted. Lord knows our behemoths need better brakes than what they came with. My 69 Road Runner convertible tips the scales at over 2 tons! The drum brakes make a panic stop worthy of the name.

I probably wouldn't put them on my car which I am always trying to make more correct, but I have no doubt that if I were to ever put together a resto rod using a non-matching non-original b-body, there would be 17s or 18s on there for sure along with the modern drivetrain. I think this Charger looks just great with the wheels it has considering all the custom work that was done. A little more and it would be "Fooseified" but these look like 17 or 18 at the mnost and fit the openings nicely.

 

[72Satellite440]

IDk the above car tooks like a chopped up POS to me- IMHO

 

[MiamiMopar]

Well, it IS a chopped up car... I don't know if I would call it a POS... even though the whole roadster thing isn't my cup of tea. If you look at the page that pic came from, you'll see they used a car that was practically ready to become part of the soil again. So at least they didn't chop up a decent car to make it.

But the roadster part is besides the point. It's the rims... I think they are in proportion to the car and would look good on any B-body. I'm thinking a set of the low production alloy styled wheels... the model escapes me at the moment iin the same size would look even better.

 

[69clone]

I am one of the young guys (20) who doesn't like big rims. I wouldn't go larger then 15" on mine and thats because I like to see a little shiny circle surrounded with a lot of rubber. I put my dad's 17" rims on my car to see how they looked and it was too much for me. This is only on classics I must say the new challengers look good, but I'd never put those rims on my car.

 

[pgkeating]

Again, agree with comments....

my comment was strictly from a functional perspective. I'm a "to each his own" kinda guy.

My point was that slapping bigger wheels on w/o the rest of the suspension system being considered, is a mistake. You'll get the cornering benefit, but in the long run they're gonna be a problem.

It's great if you can fit bigger brakes and yeah, bigger wheels/less side wall/more width will help cornering. The right way to do it (and Foose does this often), is to change out (upgrade) the suspension to match the wheel set, so you don't end up with square wheels. Thus getting ALL the benefit of an upgraded suspension SYSTEM.

Of course all this gets you even further away from "stock" purity, but....to each their own.

My '68 Super Bee has the 11" drums. I won't open it up, unless I have the room to shut it down. Motor's already been swapped for a 440. I'm already thinking about this exact suspension/brake upgrade. It is however an expensive undertaking and I'm happy with it as is (for now). It's all part of "the charm" of having an oldie MOPAR...

Just my .02

PK

 

[1971RR]

I got the Cragar SS w/black center and polished lip. Unfortunately they only come in 15". I wanted the 17" TorqueThrusts but I couldnt find a tire ratio that I liked that didnt cost me my first born. The Cragars w/BF Goodrich T/A's was $1200. It'll do for now.

 

[1971RR]

Nothin like a 20' long roadster!! That thing is about 3 Miatas's long!!

 

[Grancuda]

I really don't like larger diameter wheels on older cars. *Very rarely do they look right and they cheapen the look as the bigger wheels can be seen on the latest Kia or Hyundai. *I have set-up cars with vintage style 14" & 15" wheels as well as *17" & 18" wheels. *With the cars set-up with the 17" & 18" they didn't hook up nearly as well and were much more harsh on the bumps and the cars seemed to walk on the road.

Here is my old '70 AMX with 18"s





Here is my old '70 'cuda with 17"s



Here it is with some 15's & 295/50 on the back



If your not doing SCCA racing then big aftermarket brakes are completely unnecessary and something the vendors now days are pushing for "safety" and "required" for these old "heavy" muscle cars. * Properly set-up 11" drums will stop a 440 powered B body with no problem. *If braking is scary and you have to drive in a special way, you need to get your brakes adjusted or make sure all the components are properly matched. *

I am running stock '70 manual disc *on my '69 RoadRunner and at TIR running 110 mph in the quarter 1 can use the first turn-off with ease and even with my old '70 Challenger R/T with 11" drum I did the same.*

 

[Grancuda]

Here is my '69 RR with 15" Keystones. *These are a timeless wheel that never get old.

 

[racer-x]

Those 'cuda pictures have me thinking. I like the idea of 17's on my Satellite...but the 15's definitely look 'right' on it.

I'm debating wheels for my 72 Satellite wagon. I used to run 14" Keystone Klassics on it back in the day; 6" up front, 8" in back. My current idea is for a set of 17x7" American Racing Torq Thrust D's, black with a machined lip. I love the TT-D, and I think the black center/spokes will offset the fact its a 17. And as noted above...they will make room for bigger brakes (it's a factory disc car) down the line, should I decide to upgrade. But looking at that 'cuda above...maybe I should stick with a 16 or a 15? They don't offer it in black, but they have chrome, polished, and the "true" TT, anthracite gray. I like the idea of a period-design, but a new-size...

I'll be keeping the factory F7 Sherwood Green paint. I *might* have the painter add a bit more pearl to it, just to give it a subtle 'bump', but I'm definitely going stock color. My side moldings are long-gone, so it'll be smooth and monochrome (it's a Custom, so no chrome window trim, it's ALL body color). Inside it may end up with my Magnum R/T leather seats, in beige...but outside I'm going to stick to the sleeper look.

Unless I have him ghost in a version of my current white "superbee stripe"...just for kicks

 

[mac68]

15's w/ a nice sidewall gets my vote.

 

[Jim Bob The Dancing Bear]

Do what you want as many have said.

I plan on running 18"s and my car is and will be a daily driver I hope for as long as I own the car. I will be upgrading my suspension to handle my daily commute more like a go-cart than the titanic. (waiting on the greasable pivot shaft) Suspension first with my stock 14's and hub caps 225/65/14's. Once I am finished with suspension I will do brakes and rims.

If someone doesn't like it, I except cash. Once I have the cash it would be yours to do as you wish. Until then I have my build planned out in my head for what I like.