Wheel stud replacement, BFH okay?

[SandDiesel]

How much "love" can you give the wheel studs with a mallet with the axles still in? Can't quite get a c clamp in there to press them out. Also if I unbolt the axle and slide it out do I need a catch pan for gear oil? Any comments for the fronts as they're next?

 

[SandDiesel]

Well, got a little braver with the hammer and they're starting to come out, next question though. Pulling these studs in, is it safe to leave the 4 speed in gear to keep the axle from spinning while I torque on them? It's going to take some oomph to get these knurled studs to pull in. Going to need a small cheater bar now to pull them in.

 

[64BEL]

Sand,

No need for a drip pan for gear lube. Just yank the axles - it will make the job much easier. You shouldn't have tapered axles, so just remove the nuts and pull em. If they stick, put a drum on backwards using a couple of lug nuts (not tight) and use it as a slide hammer.

I replaced a stud on my driver's front with no trouble, but I've heard some guys have problems if they're swedged on.

Good luck!

Dave

 

[65-440]

just give it a good whack with the hammer, they will pop out ! ... i would use a prybar in b/t 2 other studs to stop the axle from spinning...

 

[SandDiesel]

Got 'em comin' out thanks. Putting the 3 inchers in is a pain using a wrench. Going to the parts store to get a set of deeper wells than I have. Using a washer on the front side and torquing the nut down is pulling the stud in, just taking time. Just moved in a couple months ago so I don't have my work bench set up so if I can finish it on the car its easier. Thanks again guys.

 

[64BEL]

Sand,

You can easily tap them in from the back if you pull the axles - that's how I installed my 3 inchers. It would be a lot quicker and easier - even with going through the small amount of extra work in removing the axles. No bench needed, either.
Dave

 

[65-440]

Sand,

You can easily tap them in from the back if you pull the axles - that's how I installed my 3 inchers. It would be a lot quicker and easier - even with going through the small amount of extra work in removing the axles. No bench needed, either.
Dave

much easier than wrenching them in !!

 

[SandDiesel]

Just to be safe no seals or anything needed? Just pull one side at a time, don't rotate anything and fire it back in and bolt it down. No lube, grease, or seals? Thanks, just getting ready to yank them.

Just looked closer and there's RTV sealing mine. Is this any particular RTV? Tried to get a wrench on them and it looks like the brake pads will have to come apart too to make room. Nuts are torqued on there good.

 

[65-440]

just pull them straight out, you'll be ok .... there should be a hole in the axle for you to put a socket through ???

 

[64BEL]

The brakes can stay in tact - no need to remove them. As 65-440 said, there is a larger access hole in the hub that allows you to use a ratchet and socket on the nuts.

 

[SandDiesel]

The brakes can stay in tact - no need to remove them. As 65-440 said, there is a larger access hole in the hub that allows you to use a ratchet and socket on the nuts.

No poop, just realized that as I read it. To frustrated to notice. Here's the thing though. The 3" Moser studs were .676" around the knurled area and the 1.5" Moser studs were .663" around. The shorter ones pulled right in using the air gun and nut method. I'll figure out the 3 inchers later, wanted the car off the stands.

Can anyone verify if .685" studs are what's called for on my 65 Belvedere? That's what Summit pulled up.

 

[64BEL]

I'm not sure of the exact measurement on the knurl, but I used Mopar 3" studs and they worked fine. I have a '68 rearend in my '64. I needed to replace one stud after one got messed up, but the Mopar studs only come in a 10 pack. So I bought a cheaper 5 pack of Moroso studs, but they didn't fit - they were .685. So mine are smaller than that. I bought them from Summit as well,by the way. I haven't gotten back to that project - I just ended up grinding off the boogered up end of the bad stud and am running one 2+ incher with the rest 3 inchers. LOL

 

[SandDiesel]

Mine are .685 as well and the 3" are hell to try and pull in. Searching the web for more info to be sure. The ones that came out are all .662" by the way. Thanks!

 

[64BEL]

Not to be-labor the point, but you can tap all 10 in from behind in less time than it takes to draw one in with a socket!

 

[SandDiesel]

Not to be-labor the point, but you can tap all 10 in from behind in less time than it takes to draw one in with a socket!

I know, but the 1.5" ones pulled in with the air ratchet in no time so I could get the car off jacks. I will attack them later. I called Summit and they're sending me a set of Moroso 3" studs to try as well. Got a funeral to attend with the Missus this weekend so my attention is elsewhere.

Got the back two tires on and functional and started on the front. What da ya know the fronts are welded/brazed onto the drum so no swappin those and I have all RH thread lug nuts. Both of my front drums have left hand thread studs in them. Old wheel and tire goes back on, car off jacks, and call Summit again to add some left hand lug nuts to the order. Sad part is I will be ordering discs pretty soon. The joys of getting back into cars. But I'm learning!

 

[64BEL]

Sorry to hear about the funeral. Sounds like you're making progress on the car, though. It takes some time to sort out some of these "small" details as you're getting a car up and running. A seemingly little thing can side track you for several days sometimes. Try to keep having fun - even when it seems like these things are a hassle. It's not worth it if you aren't able to enjoy it. Hang in there!