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where to put $1000 in a 440

mosquito13

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been collecting parts to convert a 64 polara 440 from its 318 to a 440. -suspension and disc brakes done.
-have a rebuilt 727 out of a 65 coronet with driveshaft/slip yoke (pushbutton)
ordered from schumachers
headers
mini starter
engine mounts
tranny mount


bought a low mileage 440 out of running imperial i.e. good compression, no ticks, checked with a bore scope .

so here is my questions...
i have a little less than $1000 left to spend on this engine swap. where best to spend it?
should mention the 318 though it did not have headers ,after the stock manafold it had dual 2 1/2 pipes with smitty's and cut outs which i plan on using.
where would you go with a grand on a stock engine?
 
I would put a new higher performance cam and lifter set in it. And some chrome valve covers. If you have a cast iron intake put an aluminum one on. Dress it for the street!
 
put it in the gas tank....you ever had a 440 before? ...lol

id go with a hotter cam, lifters, push rods . ....and a good properly working carburetor.... and if any is left over ... electronic distributor !
 
power is made in the heads... If your happy with your intake and carb setup then I'd save it and buy a set of heads if your looking to make more power. Not a mopar expert by any means but most cars from the factory has common restrictions.. intake, heads, exhaust..... an engine is an air pump.. more air in more air out more power made
 
pics

kind of want to build it and forget it. car is for the street . figure it needs seats for the crap gas(aftermarket heads too $$$ for now) so stock heads, cam with a little more lift , carb, iggy, high flow water pump and better radiator (maybe a pusher fan for city)with shroud. here is what i am starting with.
 

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intake carb distrbutor coil wires and plugs
 
Big Blue Bottle!!! lol sorry had to add the Nitrous:) but a good cam and lifter set with a matching intake and carb will net you the most bang for the buck. but be aware of the cam size if you go too big you will need a high stall converter. keep it under 280/480 you should be OK. best of luck.
 
Well, You want to begin with a good foundation for what you may want to do later.

I would not want to have to take the engine out of the car once it is in so below is what I would do based on the direction and use you are indicating here.

If it were me I would take the engine apart check all to be good, new rings and bearings and check the piston deck height. Deck the block for better compression which is the first building block you need for a good engine that will support the power you are looking for with the headers. These old Mopars are notorious for the pistons being down in the hole and not producing the advertised compression ratio.

Add a cam and appropriate sized carb for the cam. If you have any money left over do a little head work even though it is more cost effective to buy aftermarket aluminum heads that will breathe better than any amount of work you will do to stock heads.

You may want to leave the stock heads alone and save a little more money and add the aluminum heads later if you are not happy with the power you have from above. They can be changed with the engine in the car in an afternoon.

It always cost more to do things twice and the time to do the serious stuff is when you are in the engine. It is easy to get carried away once you get in the engine like blueprinting and balancing which is expensive so beware of the temptation.

I would not add a "pusher" fan. See this thread as to why.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=34967
 
390 fe close ?

never a 440 but a 390 in a 64 galaxie xl and a 390 in a 63 f100. they drank and spanked. nothing sounds like a fe when you pour it in.
 

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All right! Another FE fan! I have a 390 in my 67 Ranchero and my 71 F250. Also have some 428 cranks and webbed truck blocks.

Now on to your question. On a late model low compression engine that has been verified to run properly I'd do the following with your budget:

Free up the exhaust. Hi po manifolds or headers (a good used set of headers will be cheaper). 2.5" min pipe diameter with free flow mufflers.

Performance advance curve with good ignition.

Maintenance items such as hoses and belts and I'd go as far as checking or just replacing the freeze plugs. Also any gaskets that are suspect.


If you can swing it, I'd add compression any way you can. The cheapest way is to use a steel shim gasket under your late model heads for about a .4 point increase. Taking it one step further I'd find a set of 516 heads for darn near free and have hard seats with 1.74" exhaust valves with new guides put in. The total compression increase with the gasket and smaller chamber can be nearly one point.

A very mild cam designed for low compression.


Take it from me, the stock intake is not holding you back as much as you may think on a stock or mild engine, but you will want to block the EGR and remove the floor jets if it has them.
 
You won't use the full grand but man the switch from 318 to 440 nickel and dimed me. Judging by your pics I suggest electronic ignition, Belts, Hoses, Pulleys, new alternator, voltage regulator, plugs, wires, antifreeze (12 bucks a gallon), temp and oil pressure sender, thermostat, hoses, headers, gaskets, exhaust work possibly, oil, filter, heater hose bung going into water pump housing exc.

The water pump on that motor is on the passenger side. Where was the 318 exiting? you may need a new housing, which means gaskets and while you have it down you may check the timing chain for slop and a new pump.

I didn't do all of the above and my daily driver was not reliable until after the above (minus timing chain). Is your 1K extra on top of what the little things or is that what is left of the budget?
 
Low buck would be a reworked set of 915's or 516's to bump compression. Can find these for less than $500.00 ready to go if you are willing to shop around. I would change out the camshaft and lifters. The last thing would be to update ignition. Later on get a performer or RPM intake and eddy 750 cfm carb. Good luck on your upgardes but really it will come down to what you want to focus on. Really I would get that bad boy in and running then determine what it has to have immediately, just saying. Most of the upgrades discussed except heads can be accomplished after installation. The little things eat the money quicker than anything.
 
I'd say save the $1k and see how it runs as is. Worst case scenario you add some parts on the top end, easy enough with the motor in. Best case, you got $1k to spend on gas!
 
1K

Smart man! Those heads do need hardened seats for the "Crap Gas". Take the whole thing apart and inspect it. Before you send the heads off, clean-up the ports and match the ports to the new intake and exhaust gaskets with a die grinder. Try and get the mopar Direct Connection template kit so you can do a nice neat port job without spending a penny except your labor. The kit helps you do the job without worrying about grinding through to the water passages! Knock all of the sharp edges out of the combustion chamber so you don't have any "Hot spots" to cause pre-ignition. Buy a new gasket set, a new oil pump, a new timing chain and gears, take all of the clearances with Plastigage, and a new cam & lifters. Get an aluminum intake manifold that you use a sheet metal stamped intake cover for. Too much heat & hot oil on the bottom of the intake is no good. The pan insulates the heat from the intake & carb. Oh yeah, . . . Have Fun!
 
"Get an aluminum intake manifold that you use a sheet metal stamped intake cover for. Too much heat & hot oil on the bottom of the intake is no good. The pan insulates the heat from the intake & carb. Oh yeah, . . . Have Fun!"

Are you referring to the "valley pan"? All big blocks have a valley pan to shield the hot oil from the intake.

I would re-ring and shot peen the cylinders. Put some new bearings in. Smooth out the lifter valley and paint(better oil drain back). Build a solid bottom end and worry about the rest later. The bottom end is what takes the abuse. Cam and valve components. Intake and cam and all the others mentioned (go fast goodies) can be added later. U can spend and spend on these engines. I started with a short block from p.a.w. and still spent another $3500.00 on the go fast stuff.
My $.02....
 
ok lets retitle this where to put $4k in a 64

looking for intake and carb suggestions

what i got
rebuilt 440 w/ 906 heads 8.5-1 (i think)
compcam http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=700&sb=2 .(their recomendation is 700-800 cfm)
mallory iggy
tri-flo headers going to 2 1/2" straights
727 (stage 3 shift kit)
unkown gearing (need to tackle that soon)
car is for commuting to work and grocery runs oh and eating prisus's
 
a nice performer rpm ,holley street dominator , TEAM G, not really sure what the cam spec's are.

It says replacement 440 cam, so u mite want to use a stock iron. idk. Carb's are up for debate always...

I'm using an eddy 800 avs electric choke on my Coronet and going with a carter avs 4640 on my Charger(only because it came on the car and want to save $ for other things). Both having 440's.

You could get a little crazy and put a 6pac on.
 
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