Which dana to use in road runner(71)

[Lazarus]

Hi guys, looking to get your opinions and insights into Dana 60 rear ends. I'm looking to go affordable here and do not really care about stock appearance. I just want a dana that will hold up to a 512 stroker with no issues. I understand that there are stock truck Dana's that can be cut down to handle this well. Any suggestions on what models and years of truck to look for? It is going in a 71 RR btw. It's a numbers car, so I've pulled original engine, tranny and hopefully the rear. I want to play without ruining the value. Thanks, Chris

 

[Budnicks]

buy a new Strange S-60, money well spent, all new parts & all quality parts, by the time you piece meal out a truck rear axle & all the necessary new parts, for a rebuild, proper axles, proper ends & brakes {housing with no Snubber mount}, narrowing, bearings gears, diff., etc. you could have a new S-60... my $0.02 cents {or call Currie or Moser or Magnum Force Racing}

 

[Lazarus]

That is definately a good way to go, but I was thinking a few hundred bucks from a junkyard and a couple hundred bucks to have it cut down when compared to a new 2000 unit.... Am I wrong with the price of a used truck dana?

 

[Runner 68]

buy a new Strange S-60, money well spent, all new parts & all quality parts, by the time you piece meal out a truck rear axle & all the necessary new parts, for a rebuild, proper axles, proper ends & brakes {housing with no Snubber mount}, narrowing, bearings gears, diff., etc. you could have a new S-60... my $0.02 cents {or call Currie or Moser or Magnum Force Racing}

X2

 

[Budnicks]

That is definately a good way to go, but I was thinking a few hundred bucks from a junkyard and a couple hundred bucks to have it cut down when compared to a new 2000 unit.... Am I wrong with the price of a used truck dana?

You right, but IMHFO it will cost more than just a couple hundred... If you have the necessary skills & tools... But if there's a will, then there's always a way, you can get creative, think outside the box, maybe you will come up with something cool for 1/2 the cost... Teach us all something cool... I think the Strange base set-up is like, starts @ like $1500-$1800 complete, then you can use your 8-3/4 brakes {if it has the proper std. style ends} & it's a bolt in... Remember the truck rears that are "cheap", are the floating axle types, like 8 lug 3/4-1 ton units, everything has to be changed from the, axles, ends, bearings, mounts, brakes {yoke maybe} etc... I've done it both ways, several times now, in the future I'll do the Strange S-60 anytime I do it again... good luck what ever you decide my $0.02 cents

axles $300 min. probably more

ends $100 min. ballpark

jig for welding $100 min. welder & consumables to preform the task & your time/knowledge or effort

perches $100 min. ??

axle bearings $50 min ?? pressing them on & taking them somewhere, time gas effort, if you don't have the tools to do it yourself

A boneyard Dana-60 axle housing $250 min. ?? if you can find a place that will sell one that cheap, probably needs complete rebuild, time to go & get it, gas to get there & back another $50... Craigslist or E-Scam maybe another option

rebuild carrier kit $150 min. easily {sure/true trac ??}

seals & silicone & paint $25 ?? easily

shock mounts $10-$25 min., fabed up maybe cheaper ??

yoke $100 or drive shaft end change & shortening/balancing $150 probably, maybe a little cheaper

Now we're up to $1385-$1400 for an old unit & your time, now probably more, lets say 10% for cost variances now your up-to $1475-$1600ish + or - taxes, shipping, gas etc. lets just call it $1500-ball park easily, not saving all that much here... to do it right... but I could be wrong, wouldn't be the 1st time won't be the last, either...LOL...

Probably being overly ****, BUT I'm sure it can be done cheaper too, possibly too, just an example of what it could run you, for an old unit... food for thought

 

[moparmarks]

Call Cass at Dr Diff.

 

[Budnicks]

Call Cass at Dr Diff.

yeah another great source...

 

[Runner 68]

You right, but IMHFO it will cost more than just a couple hundred... If you have the necessary skills & tools... But if there's a will, then there's always a way, you can get creative, think outside the box, maybe you will come up with something cool for 1/2 the cost... Teach us all something cool... I think the Strange base set-up is like, starts @ like $1500-$1800 complete, then you can use your 8-3/4 brakes {if it has the proper std. style ends} & it's a bolt in... Remember the truck rears that are "cheap", are the floating axle types, like 8 lug 3/4-1 ton units, everything has to be changed from the, axles, ends, bearings, mounts, brakes {yoke maybe} etc... I've done it both ways, several times now, in the future I'll do the Strange S-60 anytime I do it again... good luck what ever you decide my $0.02 cents

axles $300 min. probably more

ends $100 min. ballpark

jig for welding $100 min. welder & consumables to preform the task & your time/knowledge or effort

perches $100 min. ??

axle bearings $50 min ?? pressing them on & taking them somewhere, time gas effort, if you don't have the tools to do it yourself

A boneyard Dana-60 axle housing $250 min. ?? if you can find a place that will sell one that cheap, probably needs complete rebuild, time to go & get it, gas to get there & back another $50... Craigslist or E-Scam maybe another option

rebuild carrier kit $150 min. easily {sure/true trac ??}

seals & silicone & paint $25 ?? easily

shock mounts $10-$25 min., fabed up maybe cheaper ??

yoke $100 or drive shaft end change & shortening/balancing $150 probably, maybe a little cheaper

Now we're up to $1385-$1400 for an old unit & your time, now probably more, lets say 10% for cost variances now your up-to $1475-$1600ish + or - taxes, shipping, gas etc. lets just call it $1500-ball park easily, not saving all that much here... to do it right... but I could be wrong, wouldn't be the 1st time won't be the last, either...LOL...

Probably being overly ****, BUT I'm sure it can be done cheaper too, possibly too, just an example of what it could run you, for an old unit... food for thought

You're bang on Bud. That's why outfits like Strange are in business. They offer a hell of a product for just about the same cost. Age will teach you that in most cases, trying to do some projects on the cheap, typically don't end up that way.

 

[Lazarus]

Well, if age is gonna teach me, it's taking it's sweet time. I have two grown sons. LOL. I hope I have not given the wrong impression here. I am all for "doing it right" and also for supporting businesses that help us all. I just don't feel that buying a retail unit is always "doing it right". If the truck axles are not strong enough, then someone pease step up and tell me. I was just told they were and was looking for some guidance on which units are the best to look for etc. A new unit is obviously not out of consideration, but if I can get up and going(well) for 1/4 the price, I would prefer to give that a try first. I was actually thinking that there may be some units out there with extra benefits as well, like disc brakes that could be used etc. I swear I remember reading about something like this somewhere, but I cannot find it for the life of me. Does anyone know if I am imagining this, any guidance for what year and model truck axles to look for? Thanks, Chris

 

[Runner 68]

Well, if age is gonna teach me, it's taking it's sweet time. I have two grown sons. LOL. I hope I have not given the wrong impression here. I am all for "doing it right" and also for supporting businesses that help us all. I just don't feel that buying a retail unit is always "doing it right". If the truck axles are not strong enough, then someone pease step up and tell me. I was just told they were and was looking for some guidance on which units are the best to look for etc. A new unit is obviously not out of consideration, but if I can get up and going(well) for 1/4 the price, I would prefer to give that a try first. I was actually thinking that there may be some units out there with extra benefits as well, like disc brakes that could be used etc. I swear I remember reading about something like this somewhere, but I cannot find it for the life of me. Does anyone know if I am imagining this, any guidance for what year and model truck axles to look for? Thanks, Chris

Chris, I think Budnicks made the point quite well and I think you're missing the point. If you can fabricate a custom fit 60 from a truck diff for $500, that's as solid as a Strange 60, let us all know how you did it. Don't forget to factor in the labor / brain damage componant. It would be valuable information to have. Good luck.

 

[Lazarus]

So, nobody has any info on using a truck axle in a b body? LOL. I spoke with strange earlier today and they told me their 2k basic dana would handle 700 hp with street tires. Won't a lot of jeep, Durango or truck axles handle that? Or am I just wrong since nobody has made any suggestion aside from buy a new one?

 

[moparmarks]

Why would you want to use truck full floating axles in a car?

 

[Lazarus]

I would not keep it a floating axle.

 

[BigBlock61]

When looking for a truck axle make sure you measure from backing plate to backing plate. A lot of the truck axles are narrower by an inch or two. When you cut the ends off to weld on car ends it gets even shorter. You can save about half the cost of a new dana60 if you do the leg work but, it's a lot of work to convert over and not for the faint of heart. The ends have to be welded parallel to the axle. That's the hard part. From there you have to measure for custom axles. If you think you can do it then go for it, I am. Just make sure you do the research first and know what you are getting into.

 

[Cranky]

Yeah, you can build from a truck housing but try to find a bare one. If you can't, then try and find one that has a limited slip unit in it at least so you can get some of your money back. Buying a complete Dana 60 from a junk yard will be kinda costly so check on places like Craigslist. The Ford '501' housings are still out there but pay 100 bucks or less for one. They came with non floating axles but are still a Dana 60 housing but come with smaller axle tubes and 6 bolt axle flanges so they generate a bit more work to weld up with new ends and brackets. I've built several using the 501 housings.....one in progress. Truck housings also have no provision for a pinion snubber.

 

[Runner 68]

At the end of the day Cranky, how many $$ do you suppose you have in one when it's finished? (BTW, I use those plastic Folgers cans for everything too)

 

[Cranky]

Many years ago I bought 22 501 housings for 20 bucks a pop and only have one full housing left along with a couple of center sections that are laying around here somewhere. This one was being shortened for a customer a couple of years ago and I only charged him 100 bucks labor plus parts iirc. A few years ago I bought several sets of bearing ends and leaf spring pads but I can't remember exactly what I paid for them anymore. Sold several housings for 75 each. From time to time you can find a PowerLock LSD on the net for 100 bucks. That's fairly cheap even if it needs new clutches but if it needs new side gears (the splined spinders), the cost can go up pretty good. New ones are available but they are not cheap. Keep in mind there were many different axle splines for the trucks but the cars came with 30 iirc. You just have to check what the prices are for the parts as they don't seem to stay in one place for very long but from time to time, I see bearing ends and spring pads on Ebay for reasonable prices. As for axles, both you and the seller (if you buy off of Ebay) need to be on the same page for the correct length needed and most of the big box stores have a web page to help you decide what length you will need so you might be able to get them from Ebay for cheaper but I like to get mine from Moser or Strange especially if they will be seeing some high HP numbers. A few years ago I bought a complete Dana 60 with ladders, diagonal bar, coil over shocks, Wilwood disc brakes and wheelie bars for 600 bucks! This was when I was planning on going back racing but decided against going that route and sold it all for 1100. If you keep an eye out, this stuff shows up here and there...

 

[Lazarus]

That's probably my biggest issue. I have been watching long before I started doing and remember vaguely what was done, have an idea of costs but specifics are lost in my aging mind. Lol. Add to that the fact that I have more Internet and book knowledge than actual experience and I would find myself in trouble quick without some good advise. I appreciate those sharing their insight, knowledge and experience here. There are often times when there is only one way to do something right and I understand that. Many times however, the "right way" is just an opinion. I will admit that I was frustrated at first in this thread when I was getting little feedback other than buy a new unit complete, even though I did appreciate the advise. It is good to see some stepping up and sharing other thoughts and experiences now. Thanks everyone! Btw, if anyone runs across a good deal like the above, let me know and I will give a little appreciation money for the heads up. Thanks again, Chris

 

[Cranky]

I developed a motto early on (because I had to) to never pay full price for anything related to my hobby and so far, I've been able to do that. Swap meets supplied a lot of parts for me plus I used to buy other's project cars and that included a few race cars....parted them out and kept what I wanted and over the years, I've collected a lot of stuff. Used a lot of it, sold some and still have some. I know a lot of guys that will buy nothing but new stuff off 'the shelf' and end up putting a ton of money into their cars. I've bought a lot of new stuff too but the vast majority of it comes from someone that bought it off the shelf. If you don't have to do that, then that's great but some of us really can't do that.....at least not all the time. Too bad you're so far away....

 

[Budnicks]

So, nobody has any info on using a truck axle in a b body? LOL. I spoke with strange earlier today and they told me their 2k basic dana would handle 700 hp with street tires. Won't a lot of jeep, Durango or truck axles handle that? Or am I just wrong since nobody has made any suggestion aside from buy a new one?

that's a 9.25" not a 9.750" ring gear like the Dana-60 {or S-60}, there're also other good 8.750" options too, depending on how much power you "actually" make, a beefed up 8.750" can handle allot, I've gone 8.50's with one in a 3300# car making over 700hp on a 300 shot of N20, with an automatic 727tf with a 742 carrier 3.73:1 & 3.91:1 gears, ran in the 9.70's regularly with 4.30:1 gears too N/A... with a 4 speed or manual trans I think the Dana-60 would be much better...

- - - Updated - - -

Let us know how it turns out & exactly how much you end up spending/saving, what exact parts you have to source, the exact time you spend, trying to save $$$ or doing the boneyard type deal, how much time & shipping or ordering, gas money etc., I'm curious to see if you have better luck, than I ever have... good luck what ever you decide to do, I hope you can do it cheaper & succeed, I was just trying to save you a bunch of time & hassle, even possibly money in the long run... I've Been There & done that, several times now over 35 years of racing, I do all my own fab, narrowing, chassis, suspension, welding work, on all my own stuff, built 26 race cars from the ground up... I don't always just by new, But In my experiences you always spend more $$$ than you think you will, buying old stuff & learning how to rebuild it, buying necessary tools or literature etc., just trying to save a few hundred bucks, it's allot easier & cheaper sometime buying something new, for the sake of have a better finished product... I know my time, my life & frustrations aren't worth a few hundred $$$... Happy Moparing, I'm done & that's my $0.02 cents