Why does my 318 stall when I come to a stop?

[RT6PK]

I have a '67 Belvedere with a very mild 318, (340 cam and a 4 barrel) and an automatic. The car has been upgraded with a Pertronix Igniter III. It all started the other night. When I came to a stop, the car stalled. When I tried to re-start it, it seemed like it was out of time, (kind of an intermittent rur rur rur.... ruuuuuur..... ruuuuur..... ruuuur..... rur rur rur). Once it started, it seemed to drive fine, until I came to a stop, then it stalled. I got it home and checked spark. Spark was there, but it looked a little week. I am getting gas too. The distributor was loose. I static timed the car by bringing #1 to TDC and verifying that the timing mark was near "0". I hooked up a timing light up with the motor off and turned the distributor to try to make the timing light light when the rotor would touch the #1 contact inside the distributor cap. I could not seem to get the timing light to light even though I was sure that the #1 contact was moving past the rotor. It lit up a few times, but I expected it to light EVERY time the #1 contact moved past the rotor as I turned the distributor back and forth. I got the car to start and idle smoothly, but it dies when I put it in gear. Also, while I have it running, it is nearly impossible to see the timing mark on the harmonic balancer or the timing tab on account of my view of the timing tab is obscured by the power steering pump and the lower radiator hose which discharges from the water pump housing on the driver side of the motor. One more thing, I had a brand new MSD blaster 3 coil, I installed it just for fun. It didn't help.

HELP!!!

 

[dadeo]

If it dies when you put it in gear, I think you're on the right path. You do not have enough initial advance so advance it more (idle RPM's will increase) and go for a ride. Easiest troubleshoot to begin with.
Andy

 

[MoparLeo]

Had you done anything to it just before the problem or has it been fine and one day just started to stall ?

 

[RT6PK]

Its been fine, the problem just started.

 

[toolmanmike]

I have ran Pertronix for a few years now with no issues. If it were me, I would get another known good distributor and put it back the way it once was just to test.

 

[padam]

Sounds like you're timing chain possibly jumped.

 

[MoparLeo]

Always go with the simple stuff first. Most of the time it is just that, a simple fix. Try a known, good distributor as recommended by another member first.

 

[Woodruff Carbs]

If your idle circuit is lean, when the car tries to transition from cruise to idle, stalling is sometimes a symptom.

 

[Woodruff Carbs]

A quick little check would be with the engine fully warmed up, pull the hose from the carb at the 3/8 pcv port.With A good air/fuel ratio, the engine will gain 100-200 rpm momentarily, then slowly die out. If it keeps chugging you are rich. If it dies instantly, you are lean.

 

[pearljam724]

Carburetor related. Choke is hung up, idle screw, air fuel mixture screws, throttle cable not mounted correctly. Guarantee carburetor related. An adjustment is off or something is on a bind. Primary jet issue on a 4 barrel carb. If the car runs fine, until you come to a stop. There is nothing else it can possibly be. Has to be carb related. There are no other possibilities related to your stalling.

The choke is likely not opening all the way or not staying fully open after the car is warmed up. You won’t notice this problem until you come to a stop. It will stall or shut off when the car comes to a stop after the engine is at operating temperature. Will be difficult to restart if this is the case. Check to see if your electric choke is operating properly or if it needs adjusted to operate properly. An electric choke will need adjusted in between seasonal temperature changes.

 

[rumblefish360]

An electrical choke should never need adjusting.

Between float level and your distributors initial, I think you’ll find something. If not, it’ll be time to dig deeper.
(Fuel pressure good?)