will JB weld fix it ?

[krowbar]

Anybody ever use Jb weld on headers? I have a crack in #6 primary right next to the flange at the head. I would take it off and weld it, but it's a Bitch to get the headers off and on. Would that **** just end up burning off?

 

[cr8crshr]

A Band Aid fix at best. I know it is an '*** pain" to remove the header, but Dude...don't second guess and cut corners!!! Do it right the first time and get it Braised and fixed. Exhaust ain't nothing to cut corners on...just my 2 cents...

 

[67 coronet]

jb weld has a very diff expantion rate then metal and was not designed to resist that much heat.it will more then likley leak like a sive and make welding it after much harder.

 

[eric383]

I guess you have nothing to lose if you give it a try. Clean it good and rough up the area to give it somewhere to stick. Worse case scenario you have to pull the header if it doesn't work and fix it.(grind away the JB Weld and weld it)

 

[CudaChick1968]

Though my purposes for using it are different, I frequently need high temp metal filler for my parts restoration and powder coating work. Check into some stuff called High Temp Metal Filler from Permatex. It's easy to work with, sandable, grindable, doesn't require mixing of epoxies like JB Weld (you just knead the tube a bit before you use it), and it's good to 2,000 degrees. You can even bake it in a dedicated oven for awhile to make it harder. The only drawbacks I can point to are that it's tough for me to find out here in the boonies -- I have to order it from CaswellPlating.com ($12 plus $8 for shipping) -- and it's kind of expensive for a 1-ounce blister tube. But it works!!!

I have to go along with cr8crshr above though and agree that if you're going to try to fix it at all, do it right and take the header off first.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Not likely on the JB weld working out or any epoxy, but throw some on and see what happens. Worst that can happen is it burns off. Another trick is to get some of that header wrap or some glass fiber and orange silicone and use a hose clamp or wrap with stainless wire to secure. Yep, pretty hokey, but I bet it will get you by until you can get new headers or fix yours.

 

[krowbar]

I've seen some 2400° epoxy online too,but not sure how any of it will work on headers being that they're such thin metal. Expansion and contraction is much faster on headers than say a cast manifold. These ain't show quality anyway(rusty as hell),and the welds at the collectors have let loose too.These are two piece 2" super comps on a 440.

 

[kb73rr]

We worked on a turbine engine project maybe 6 years ago and a lot of very smart people put a lot of time and money into trying to develop a structural adhesive that would work over 1300F. Visually, that is glowing yellow-orange and about how headers look with an engine running on a dyno. They never came up with anything that really worked. They did develop some ceramic adhesives that could take the heat, but they didn't have acceptable adhesion and were brittle.

There are a number of aerospace and mil-spec 2-part epoxies similar to JB Weld. They are all limited to about 600F.

I had a broken mounting lug on an engine in a boat. I figured we were going to have to pull the engine to repair it, and that was a major PITA job to do. We found a TIG welder guy who was able to weld it in place. Maybe you could check out some of your local welding services to see if someone could weld the crack without removing the headers from the car. The guy we found said "if I can see it I can weld it" and damned if he wasn't right!

 

[krowbar]

I've got mig,stick, and Oxy acetylene. Proficient with all too. I was just curious about the epoxies on hi heat headers. What I will probably do is run the engine for a few minutes to heat up the primaries then mig that ****. I just don't want to burn through. I guess I could try to unbolt the flange and separate it from the head. Then put a piece of 1/4" plate between the two as not to get any buckshot in the exhaust port or on the valves.

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We worked on a turbine engine project maybe 6 years ago and a lot of very smart people put a lot of time and money into trying to develop a structural adhesive that would work over 1300F. Visually, that is glowing yellow-orange and about how headers look with an engine running on a dyno. They never came up with anything that really worked. They did develop some ceramic adhesives that could take the heat, but they didn't have acceptable adhesion and were brittle. I've worked with some of those "VERY SMART" people too. To be honest I don't know how some of them can even wipe their own ***. Don't get me wrong..some are brilliant but alot lack the skills to be able to #@$!!&# rig. Lol

There are a number of aerospace and mil-spec 2-part epoxies similar to JB Weld. They are all limited to about 600F.

I had a broken mounting lug on an engine in a boat. I figured we were going to have to pull the engine to repair it, and that was a major PITA job to do. We found a TIG welder guy who was able to weld it in place. Maybe you could check out some of your local welding services to see if someone could weld the crack without removing the headers from the car. The guy we found said "if I can see it I can weld it" and damned if he wasn't right!

I've worked with some of those "VERY SMART" people too. Some have trouble wiping their own ***..some are brilliant.

 

[Bruzilla]

67 Coronet got it right. It isn't the heat that does in the fix, it's the expansion and contraction difference between the header and the JB Weld that does it. I tried using it on an X-pipe after I ran over a deer that someone was nice enough to hit in a turn on a dark road and leave the body laying in the center of the road. The JB Weld worked great for a few days, but after a couple of drives the expansion of the pipe caused the JB Weld to loosen on one end and leak. I reapplied a couple more times with the same results, and finally just had to get a new pipe.

 

[Cranky]

TIG would probably be the best way to go and doesn't have any spatter. MIG has a little bit of splatter and gas welding have very little if any. Gas welding is very controllable too so burning a hole shouldn't be a problem if you heat is low and easy.

 

[Propwash]

JB Weld......That Hillbilly Play-Do would last you maybe a start up or two. MIG/TIG/ or Gas it and be done with it.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

JB Weld......That Hillbilly Play-Do would last you maybe a start up or two. MIG/TIG/ or Gas it and be done with it.

Sounds like you already have plenty of opinions but I'm with Will and everyone else, just pull the headers and weld it. Bandaid fixes only cause more headaches later

 

[Cranky]

Like was mentioned earlier, "if I can see it, I can weld it....". If you don't have to pull em, don't. Weld them in place. Just make sure you take the necessary precautions to prevent fire.

 

[conv67bdere]

I've worked with some of those "VERY SMART" people too. Some have trouble wiping their own ***..some are brilliant.

Oh you've met those guys too . . .

Had to type this after picking myself up of the floor from laughing so hard ! ! !

GOOD ONE !

 

[mikeyfrano]

Dosnt last long. Did it 20some yrs ago to my /6exhaust manifold

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1start up n puttn it in gear then its gone