• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Will Viking shocks actually help me.

Mike Gaines

Well-Known Member
Local time
3:56 PM
Joined
Apr 17, 2014
Messages
2,101
Reaction score
4,339
Location
Ahwahnee, (Fresno) California
Screenshot (5).png

I said I wasn't going to spend any more money on my car and be happy with [email protected] but.....maybe I might get the urge...
I have cal tracs with mono leaf springs, cal trac 9 way adj rr shocks and cal trac 90/10 front shocks.
Trans brake launching @3600 off the chip
My typical 60' is 1.40 when I go 10.15 to 10.17.
I know I need to launch at 4000 to 4300 but when I tried that with my current setup I lose traction and the car spins to a crappy 60'

How can RR Vikings help my 60' ?
and how much do they cost and can I just use rr or do I need frt also ?

The top picture is a screen shot of my typical launch.
 
Yes they will, make sure to call their tech line and tell them what you’re doing so they can be valved properly. Also you can go through @PST they will work with Viking tech and get your order done and you’ll also get a 10% discount
 
Yes they will
Though you will need to experiment with settings to fine tune
Go rear only first , that is what I did with QA1 single adjust front . I run radials so I wont suggest settings , Viking give you good directions with their shocks .And are very helpful to contact for info .
I know fronts also will help but budget and this years costs have stopped that so far .
The Vikings really smoothed the rear extension and I stopped spinning
Tex
 
Are you are running 90/10 non adjustable fronts? If so I'd start there with front adjustable. run them tight. Tighten the existing rears and test.
Doug
 
Doug, Yes I run 90/10 Cal Trac shocks on the front and 9 way single Adjustable Cal Tracs on the rear.
Cal Trac tech tells me to run the rears between 1 and 3 with my transbrake. I run them on setting #1.
ON YOUR RECOMMENDATION FOR FRT ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS ARE YOU SAYING TO RUN THEM NOT AS A 90/10 but WITH MORE resistance to going UP AS THE CAR LAUNCHES ?
And are you saying to stiffen my single adjustable Cal Trac RR shocks ?
Thanks...
 
Here is Video of a typical 1.40 60 foot launch. NOT in slow motion but you can click/click along the way to freeze frame it to see it step by step.
PS: Cal Trac wants the car to lift in the rear exactly as it is doing.
They also wanted 5 1/2" of free travel in the front, which it has...front actually "lifts" 5 1/2" before front wheels come off the ground.
Doug...what do you think.
Video coming PS...I need to be reminded how to upload my you tube video to this post...help please...by pm is fine
 
Last edited:
As mentioned above call Viking and speak with one of there engineers. I would recommend that you call and speak with Jake Nueman. He is my go to guy with any questions or special applications. He is currently out at SEMA for the week so you may want to give him a ring next week.

Thanks
James From
 
It's odd being all B bodys being the same front suspension until 70. Mine won't come close to 5 1/2". Anyway nothing the matter with too much travel. Can easily be reduced if not needed. The trick is the speed of the travel. Cal Tracks lift in the rear due to the short I/C. Again we want to control the speed at which it rises. This is all done with rebound adjustment. Let me get a look at the video and then we'll talk.
Doug
 
Mike I went through this whole thing and knew you would be too. You need to get some shocks on the front that has the rebound adjustment. Slow the front end rise by putting a fair amount of front rebound in and tighten those rear shocks right up. You'll see.
 
It's odd being all B bodys being the same front suspension until 70. Mine won't come close to 5 1/2". Anyway nothing the matter with too much travel. Can easily be reduced if not needed. The trick is the speed of the travel. Cal Tracks lift in the rear due to the short I/C. Again we want to control the speed at which it rises. This is all done with rebound adjustment. Let me get a look at the video and then we'll talk.
Doug

D, the method I use to get 5.5" of free travel is by un-cranking the torsion bars and letting the front end "sag". I loosened them up enough to get the 5.5" of free travel which is what Cal Trac wants.
To get the measurement of "free travel" I measure from the ground up to the fender well lip...lets says that measurement is 30", then I jack up the car until the front tires just barely lift off of the ground and then take the measurement in that same place....It then shows 35.5", or 5.5" of travel when the car launches before the frt tires lift off the ground.
Note: I don't have the exact measurements here at the computer with me so the 30" and 35.5" are fictitious numbers just to make the point...but the difference is 5.5"
2nd Note: This process did throw my front end alignment kinda out of whack as the top of the tires "lean in" a little bit while at rest...I don't remember if that is termed "positive" or "negative camber. And this does cause my tires to wear a little more on the inside treads but I don't drive it on the street for lots of miles so it doesn't matter.
 
Mike I went through this whole thing and knew you would be too. You need to get some shocks on the front that has the rebound adjustment. Slow the front end rise by putting a fair amount of front rebound in and tighten those rear shocks right up. You'll see.
Malex, I don't know if I am going to keep spending money for the 9 second time slip quest. It just might make sense at this point is just to buy an A Body 1968 Dart Race Car Roller. My car would probably then run around 9.40 simply because of the 800lb weight difference. I my eyes on a couple of them right now.....and....that car would have ladder bars and 14" wide rear wheels with 13 or 14" wide slicks.
I wish you were my neighbor so I could have you install ladder bars and put in BIG tubs to accept the big wheel/tire combo.
 
Do you know what the quickest new Factory stock 60ft is on 9x30 slicks? Would you believe 1.14? Ever watched Jason Digbys Dart Or Ron Rhodes Camaro? Both have been in the 4.20s in the 1/8 on leaf springs. Watch some NMCA N/SS video. Plenty of Cal Track cars. Most of these cars repeat like clockwork. All run a small tire.
Doug
 
Do you know what the quickest new Factory stock 60ft is on 9x30 slicks? Would you believe 1.14? Ever watched Jason Digbys Dart Or Ron Rhodes Camaro? Both have been in the 4.20s in the 1/8 on leaf springs. Watch some NMCA N/SS video. Plenty of Cal Track cars. Most of these cars repeat like clockwork. All run a small tire.
Doug
Light cars with lots of HP ?
My car weights close to 3800lbs on the line and only 750HP.....
Is the consensus of opinion if I bought 4 Viking Shocks I could decrease my 60' from 1.40 to what ???
 
Light cars with lots of HP ?
My car weights close to 3800lbs on the line and only 750HP.....
Is the consensus of opinion if I bought 4 Viking Shocks I could decrease my 60' from 1.40 to what ???
For sure, big power. The NHRA factory stockers weigh 3525-3575. The point I was making is they can hook with well over 1000 hp on a small tire. Your car 60ft will probably stay high 1.3- low 1.4. However it should repeat w/o spin reqardless if a little nose weight.
Doug
 
Malex, I don't know if I am going to keep spending money for the 9 second time slip quest. It just might make sense at this point is just to buy an A Body 1968 Dart Race Car Roller. My car would probably then run around 9.40 simply because of the 800lb weight difference. I my eyes on a couple of them right now.....and....that car would have ladder bars and 14" wide rear wheels with 13 or 14" wide slicks.
I wish you were my neighbor so I could have you install ladder bars and put in BIG tubs to accept the big wheel/tire combo.
---
Yes, you're a tad too far to pop over and help out. Lol. I think that you're closer than you think. You took a bunch of weight out, not in the best places and without cranking up any shock rebound. Take another shot at it.
 
Viking adjustable shocks on all 4 corners will definitely help. Just be sure to call their tech first so they can get the valving right the first time. You don’t want to be in the same position as you are now and sending them out to be re valved. Viking shocks are very impressive pieces and they’re light.

36480EC1-4F51-4EFE-862B-9A9AB49E506B.jpeg
 
For sure, big power. The NHRA factory stockers weigh 3525-3575. The point I was making is they can hook with well over 1000 hp on a small tire. Your car 60ft will probably stay high 1.3- low 1.4. However it should repeat w/o spin reqardless if a little nose weight.
Doug
Doug, the next race is Nov 17-18. With some weight bars I am putting the 120lbs (that I took out) back into the trunk. I am putting my tires back at 17lbs and using my 3600 trans brake chip.
The car should then go back to my very normal 1.40 60'.
I will report the outcome.
Hopefully the adjusted altitude should be in the 500 to 750 foot range for some good ET's...my normal ET (with 2500foot adjusted altitude) is between 10.16 and 10.19 so I might see some 10.10 to 10.13 time slips.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top