Underhood and trunk are done.
I also got most of the discoloration polished off the rear bumper.
Done for today…
Winter Project - ‘69 GTX Engine Compartment Rehab
- Thread starter Black_Sheep
- Start date
Underhood and trunk are done.
I also got most of the discoloration polished off the rear bumper.
Done for today…
The one electrical component I didn’t replace during the rehab was the starter relay, so naturally it failed. It wouldn’t restart after stopping for fuel en route to the Street Machine Nationals, although I could hear the coil pull the contacts closed. I ended up jumping the relay with a screwdriver for a couple weeks until I could find a NOS starter relay and get it installed.
I’ve been planning and acquiring parts for the upcoming winter projects. My plan is to rebuild the door and quarter window mechanisms and add a hydro boost to get the GTX to stop like it should. I ordered it through site sponsor Bergman Auto Craft. I chose the standard prep unit with a Mopar master cylinder and black hoses and fittings. No pics of that because it’s a few weeks out. New master cylinder brake lines for a power drum brake car were ordered to accommodate the additional length added by the hydro boost unit.
I should have all of the small window hardware that could be missing or broken.
I’ve been planning and acquiring parts for the upcoming winter projects. My plan is to rebuild the door and quarter window mechanisms and add a hydro boost to get the GTX to stop like it should. I ordered it through site sponsor Bergman Auto Craft. I chose the standard prep unit with a Mopar master cylinder and black hoses and fittings. No pics of that because it’s a few weeks out. New master cylinder brake lines for a power drum brake car were ordered to accommodate the additional length added by the hydro boost unit.
I should have all of the small window hardware that could be missing or broken.
I rebuilt/refurbished the door and quarter window regulators and mechanisms when restoring the Coronet. It's tedious but rewarding once done.
There are lots of small clips and pieces so I recommend taking plenty of photos after removing the door and quarter cards. The quarter window raises and lowers on a 3-plane axis and is challenging to align after reinstalling so mark the regulator's orientation before unbolting. I rattle can sprayed orange witness marks after each bolt was removed.
There are lots of small clips and pieces so I recommend taking plenty of photos after removing the door and quarter cards. The quarter window raises and lowers on a 3-plane axis and is challenging to align after reinstalling so mark the regulator's orientation before unbolting. I rattle can sprayed orange witness marks after each bolt was removed.
Rich H.
Well-Known Member
Looking great!
It’s been a long time since I posted to this thread, after waiting for what seemed like an eternity my hydro-boost kit arrived. It was almost 9 months from placing the order to finally receiving it. I’m still not entirely happy with the final product but I’ll work through it with what I have.
The MC mounting hardware is 3/8 which necessitated drilling the MC to accommodate them. Did I mention that I loathe socket head cap screws?
I will probably have to drill the firewall and factory reinforcement plate as well, the mounting studs are considerably larger, also 3/8”.
I purchased a set of reproduction brake lines for a power brake car to compensate for the 6” + depth of the hydro boost unit. Just eyeballing it, they will work perfectly. The supplied pressure hose looks to be on the short side, 4’ may not be enough to run from the ps pump to the booster and back to the steering gear while keeping the lines away from the headers. I’m sure our hydraulic shop can hook me up with custom hoses if that’s the case. The kit came with plenty of low pressure return hose but no clamps, hopefully I can find fuel injection clamps that will fit the OD of the hose.
Stay tuned, I need to finish up a little work on the truck before I can shuffle vehicles around…
The MC mounting hardware is 3/8 which necessitated drilling the MC to accommodate them. Did I mention that I loathe socket head cap screws?
I will probably have to drill the firewall and factory reinforcement plate as well, the mounting studs are considerably larger, also 3/8”.
I purchased a set of reproduction brake lines for a power brake car to compensate for the 6” + depth of the hydro boost unit. Just eyeballing it, they will work perfectly. The supplied pressure hose looks to be on the short side, 4’ may not be enough to run from the ps pump to the booster and back to the steering gear while keeping the lines away from the headers. I’m sure our hydraulic shop can hook me up with custom hoses if that’s the case. The kit came with plenty of low pressure return hose but no clamps, hopefully I can find fuel injection clamps that will fit the OD of the hose.
Stay tuned, I need to finish up a little work on the truck before I can shuffle vehicles around…
Almost forgot, I plan to reuse the heat shield currently on the car…
Just messing around in the shop today, I painted the bare aluminum adapter semi-gloss black and got YouTube certified so I could try putting a fitting on one end of the PTFE lined hose. It’s not really too hard to work with…
Similar threads
