crash89
Well-Known Member
There are a couple of types... One is installed where the second plug is in your water pump. I had my gauge plumbed there, so I got the type that is a probe that goes between the fins in your radiator.
Wiring an electric fan. I am a novice with electrical
- Thread starter crash89
- Start date
You didn't mention if you have A/C or not, if so also tie it in so it runs while the A/C is on. I'm running a controller on my fans as well, works great. The one I bought kicks one fan on at a set temp then the second if further cooling is needed and gets it's reading via a sensor in the coolant which I think would be much more reliable. Also agree on using relays, easy way to wire a stand alone setup that can handle the amps.
crash89
Well-Known Member
I don't have A/C... I don't want to tackle that job. ;) I would have gone with a different relay setup, though.
the deal with A/C is because modern cars got the secondary fan for the condenser wich also cools off the radiator, but actually not need to be tied off.
Althought this is an electric deal and question, also needs to consider if mech fan to water pump is there. Sometimes the stock mech fan ( fan clutch or not ) can block the air coming in while spinning from electric fans and get the reversed effect to get the engine cooler.
Althought this is an electric deal and question, also needs to consider if mech fan to water pump is there. Sometimes the stock mech fan ( fan clutch or not ) can block the air coming in while spinning from electric fans and get the reversed effect to get the engine cooler.
crash89
Well-Known Member
Agreed. The mechanical fan is coming off to make room for the electric fan. I am making a shroud for it, as well. The reason for the electric fan is to solve a cooling problem at slow speeds.
Oh Ok... I sse it now, just like the oven thermostat sensors.
Now, I can't see it is actually a dual speed setup, so is way simple.
Diagram shows terminal 86 of relay spliced into the ballast wire BUT it can be spliced also on regulator blue wire. If you upgraded your car to dual field alts, can be also spliced from blue wire of the alt field.
87a terminal of relay will remain unused, thats a feed when relay is not activated ( being used as a somehow of selector ). You can get also a 4 pins relay instead 5 pins
and REALLY... get an alt able to feed no less than 45/50 amps iddling. The more, the better.
Hook the relay from alt post will allow you to read the real status of the Charging system.
Upgrade ammeter wires will be great too
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html
Last edited:
crash89
Well-Known Member
My intention is to splice into the ballast wire. The input for the relay requires very little power, so I figured that would be safe.
yes but depending on your own setup, sometimes you have more accesories around needing ign switch signal, so it can be spreaded around just for a cleaner view. Reg blue wire and alt field blue wire ( when present or upgraded ) are the same signal than the ballast
once again DON'T FORGETT a better alt or your charging system will suffer a lot... specially ammeter and bulkhead. Then everybody will say is ammeter and bulkhead guilt, which is not, is the lack of power from alt
once again DON'T FORGETT a better alt or your charging system will suffer a lot... specially ammeter and bulkhead. Then everybody will say is ammeter and bulkhead guilt, which is not, is the lack of power from alt
I edited a bit the reply you quoted adding info about the alternator and wiring upgrades
crash89
Well-Known Member
Understood. That is one I will test for when complete. Very little in the way of power accessories on the car today. Alternator is an easy change.
alternative way to wire it... relay AFTER the control switch. Sometimes can be better to run less wires depending on the control switch and relay locations on engine bay. Also to save the provided switch from extra loads ( even being designed for it ) and cleaner paths to feed the fan itself
this works just if the control switch sets up one speed, providing just on/off, but not diff voltage variations for each speed.
this works just if the control switch sets up one speed, providing just on/off, but not diff voltage variations for each speed.
Last edited:
Normally these relays are internally fused, but if not you can attach a 5 amps relay before the 86 terminal or fan control switch ( if using the alternative diagram ). The fan itself will be protected by the main fuse link which is being feeded from the alt wire, which is linked to it. ( another reason why everything needs to be sourced from alt side of the game, to get protected by the fuse link, and not the batt unless using extra fuses on each source ). But still the relay is selfprotected on this.
Crackedback
Well-Known Member
Yes, I do fan relays.
OEM harness and pulling power at the battery is not a good idea. Problem with fans is they don't always tend to run only with the engine running.
If you use the ign switch as one of the triggers, they do. Modern cars keep working though with key off for some time.
Anyway, NOTHING should be connected to batt when you have an ammeter on the charging line.
Anyway, NOTHING should be connected to batt when you have an ammeter on the charging line.
Similar threads
