WIW 70 RR, 383, 4sp

[MoparGarage]

Hello Mopar Compadres!

I am hoping to get some help determining what my car might be worth in today's market. This car has been stored a long time and I recently got it back on the road. I WAS thinking of selling it and put it on eBay a few weeks ago. Got lots of views but the bidding was dismal. I have since decided to keep it and drive it myself for a while so I installed a digital dash. I'd still like to know approximately what its value is so I don't way overspend on any additional improvements.

The car is rust-free. Trunk pan is pitted and has a few pin holes but I media blasted it and it is structurally sound. Its not the original engine but is a 1970 dated non HP 383. The 4 speed trans is the original. Has 8 3/4 non sure-grip 3.23 gears. Has no fender tag or build sheet. The car runs, shifts and drives great. It has a new gas tank, fuel pump, carburetor, carpet, and windshield. The paint was done last Fall and is decent "driver quality". It is metallic burnt orange with a copper pearl mid coat and looks pretty good.

Click the link if you want to see more pics. Thanks for any help! It's been a while since I have posted - I hope I got my links right on the first try.


http://imgur.com/a/ldVm3#0

 

[MoparGarage]

Well, no pic posted. Here's the second try.

 

[wannadrag]

No tag is a killer.15k

 

[70rr-brian]

No tag is a killer.15k

I agree with this.

I think you completely lose the restoration market with no fender tag. However, someone looking to make a restomod/touring type car or just looking for a daily driver is probably your target audience.

That said I would put it in the 10-13k range. This is just my opinion. There is a lot going on with that car that anyone who buys it short of the daily driver crowd will want to redo or want to fix or alter.

Again, just my opinion based on what I see.

 

[YY1]

How much body work has it had?

A 69 with no tag sold down here for 9K, and yours looks much nicer.

The 69 had a cobbled 4 speed (original auto car), and horrible bondo work in the quarters.

The paint and digital dash polarize the potential market, making it less attractive to resto/purists, and possibly more attractive to the "new school" crowd.

 

[WP29440SE]

you might find some kid with daddies money that would pay 12K , but the digital dash ruins it for me. the no fender tag deal kills it for the numbers guys. without knowing what the paint is hiding, 8-9k IMO

 

[Hemirunner]

So what would a 70RR be worth if... original 383 4sp FJ5 car, Nice, older resto 1993.... current combo is stock appearing 572 hemi, billet everything 727 and a 3.73 dana 60, caltracks, split monos, 6pt bar, subframe connectors, 4wheel wilwoods, alterKtion front, strange double adjustables, dual batteries, lots of good parts AG hood, NOS AG switch, nice looking paint, very nice repop bench interior...... and a few 9second time slips....

 

[MoparGarage]

Thanks for the comments. I appreciate the input. I really don't believe the fender tag is worth anything without the original engine anyway. IMO, since the original engine is long gone, no sense in keeping it original looking.

Yeah, I'm not sold on that dash either, but I had it on hand and I needed some working gauges in order to drive it. Again, why spend big money to restore the original dash when the car will never be attractive to the resto crowd? That would just be more money down the wormhole I'd never get back.

As for the paint and body: I patched a few rust spots (mainly lower quarters) and replaced the DS wheel well lip. The only filler is the minimum required around my body work. I try to do all of my own work. That's what the hobby is for me - trying to become a better craftsman. So, I did the paint myself. I consider it a "practice" paint job. It's not meant for show, but I did want to play around with more expensive materials and a midcoat this time. I'm finding that it takes a lot of knowledge and practice to produce really good at paint and body work

 

[Budnicks]

Here in Northern Calif.

So what would a 70RR be worth if... original 383 4sp FJ5 car, Nice, older resto 1993.... current combo is stock appearing 572 hemi, billet everything 727 and a 3.73 dana 60, caltracks, split monos, 6pt bar, subframe connectors, 4wheel wilwoods, alterKtion front, strange double adjustables, dual batteries, lots of good parts AG hood, NOS AG switch, nice looking paint, very nice repop bench interior...... and a few 9second time slips....

What ever someone is willing to pay for a modded race car type build, really depending on the quality of the build, with out seeing any photos or seeing the car, just a wild *** guess, J-M-O here where I am, maybe $35k-$40k, maybe $50k tops to the perfect/right buyer, a big part of that price is the 572ci Hemi, more maybe depending on specifics & that is to a very select crowd, with a car like that, especially on a 19 y/o resto/rebuild.... I sold about 2 years ago now, one of my 68 RR RM23 numbers matching 383/727 8-3/4", with a stroker kit 383 @ 0.040"over w/4.15" crankshaft, forged H-Beam rods/ full Roller valve train & camshaft, block girdle w/custom 7qt. oil pan, full studs & ARP hardware, Milidon pump, dual remote filters, very good fuel system & ignition system, 479ci wedge/727 manual valve body, 3800stall, sub frame connectors, MP 742 aluminum center section w/2 gear sets 3.73:1 & 4.30:1 & 7075 alloy drive-line, decent paint, strait body, fiberglass bumpers, A12 6bbl lift off hood, that ran mid 9's N/A & mid 8's on N20, with much of the same type stuff you listed, CalTracs, Caps Auto tubular suspension stuff, adjt. drag shocks, trunk mounted battery, aluminum radiator & dual fans, electric water pump & Painless switch panel, Autometer gauges, electronics all done properly thru relays, 4pt roll bar {not sufficient, for 9's let alone 8's}, Drag radials & Halibrand knock offs $28k, no body hacking & all the fender tag & build sheet, all of the original black decor bench interior, went with the car too, it was for sale at one time for $35k, I got no takers, but never really put much effort in trying to sell it though, it could have been put back to original very easily, if someone wanted to, but why there are a ton of original 383/727 RM23 RR's stock appearing & way overpriced, on the market already... I ended up selling it to a friend, that knew I had far more than that, in time fab & parts, set up to run the #, right off the trailer or street/strip driven, it was registered & insured, I drove it to the track 15 or so miles each way, before I moved to Sonora... I think more for yours, because of the Hemi, but not being original to the car, won't raise the price much unless it was a factory appearing type resto, there are way too many purists to pick apart every little thing on, non-numbers matching resto-mods/race-cars, with out some serious history or something... :argue: Again it's just my opinion or just a wild *** guess with out knowing or seeing the car...

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

Thanks for the comments. I appreciate the input. I really don't believe the fender tag is worth anything without the original engine anyway. IMO, since the original engine is long gone, no sense in keeping it original looking.

Yeah, I'm not sold on that dash either, but I had it on hand and I needed some working gauges in order to drive it. Again, why spend big money to restore the original dash when the car will never be attractive to the resto crowd? That would just be more money down the wormhole I'd never get back.

As for the paint and body: I patched a few rust spots (mainly lower quarters) and replaced the DS wheel well lip. The only filler is the minimum required around my body work. I try to do all of my own work. That's what the hobby is for me - trying to become a better craftsman. So, I did the paint myself. I consider it a "practice" paint job. It's not meant for show, but I did want to play around with more expensive materials and a midcoat this time. I'm finding that it takes a lot of knowledge and practice to produce really good at paint and body work

Nice looking car. It is hard to judge a car by 1 well angled pic, but if the car is straight, no rust issues, has a nice interior, drives like it is supposed to, I would think it should sell for between $17K-$20K. I don't know what you are looking to get out of it, but the $7000 number is lowball if the car is as described. It may not be a numbers car, but is a stick shift RR and looks nice with the paint job, again based on 1 pic. If you get a chance post up some other pics of the interior and under the hood.

 

[MoparGarage]

Nice looking car. It is hard to judge a car by 1 well angled pic, but if the car is straight, no rust issues, has a nice interior, drives like it is supposed to, I would think it should sell for between $17K-$20K. I don't know what you are looking to get out of it, but the $7000 number is lowball if the car is as described. It may not be a numbers car, but is a stick shift RR and looks nice with the paint job, again based on 1 pic. If you get a chance post up some other pics of the interior and under the hood.

Hit the link in my first post. I have about 40 pics uploaded to that site. It does still need a few things. Your guess is about what I was hoping to get.
When it didn't sell I got to thinking that I hardly ever have a Mopar to actually drive. I'm always working on something but never enjoy the fruits of my labor. This is one of those cars that looks good but I wouldn't be afraid to drive it around town - so I don't really mind hanging onto it right now.

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

Sorry, I didn't see your link. After looking at the pics, I would think with some underhood clean up/detailing and a fresh set of radials, the car should get the numbers I posted. Really can't tell from your pics if paint color is even or light and dark. I like the looks of it and agree you should drive it, maybe put a small "for sale" sticker on it with your telephone and wait for someone who likes it for your price.

 

[Budnicks]

nice car

Hit the link in my first post. I have about 40 pics uploaded to that site. It does still need a few things. Your guess is about what I was hoping to get.
When it didn't sell I got to thinking that I hardly ever have a Mopar to actually drive. I'm always working on something but never enjoy the fruits of my labor. This is one of those cars that looks good but I wouldn't be afraid to drive it around town - so I don't really mind hanging onto it right now.

Looks like a pretty nice car overall, that digital dash will deter a bunch of purist buyers, that like originality over customizations, hopefully you kept the original dash too, so it could be offered to a potential buyer, if you did ever choose to sell the car in the future, I really like that color, not the interior color so much {just my personal preferences}, but it looks like from the photos to be decent & great driver quality, I'm on #13 68-71 RR's currently, a 68 RM23 HT w/matching #'s everything 383/727 LL1 w/Blk decor interior in near perfect condition {it has a Pioneer CD/Am/FM stereo} & 67k mile, complete Calif. car "it's whole life", mostly rust free, a couple little holes here & there, needed a crease repaired on the whole drivers side, I repaired the original sheet metal & painted it Ultra Black for the time being, until I can afford to paint it the original LL1 Surf Medium Dark Torquiose Bright Poly & black, I paid $6k in Dec. 2005 in Sacramento Ca., now it has lots of mods, all stuff that can be unbolted & put back to stock if necessary... I don't care what others think, it's no cream puff, still a work in progress & I don't plan to sell it anytime soon anyway, I built it for me, my taste & not anyone elses... I would say maybe depending on the market & where you live, at this time & maybe just a wild a$$ guess >> $15k-$17.5k, mainly because of the non original 440 engine, digital dash {which I personally like it} & lack of documentation/fender tag & build/broadcast sheets are so important on these old Mopars, even when they are modified & there is no lack of RR's base 383 cars for sale, kind of lowers the market price, unless it's exceptional quality or someone just "has to have it"... Just drive the hell out of it & have some fun, build it how you want it, just don't hack the body or anything else to add your little goodies or mods... good luck & Happy Moparing

 

[Ron 73]

Looks like your getting all kinds of info but ill say looking at your link its a beauty for sure!