Would I have a bad ignition switch?

[Dominic Torreto]

When I try to start my car the bypass works perfrectly fine to start it up. When I try it at the key it cranks for about a 1/3 of a second and stops would you guys say I have a bad ignition switch in that case what are sypmtoms?

 

[oldbee]

Sounds to me like bad starter or weak battery.(or dirty cables,wherever) "BYpass" is for ignition on the distributor.

 

[HT413]

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be bad contact on the battery terminals. Make sure they're good and tight... and clean

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Only thing is if I stay in park you can kind of hear the starter when I go to neutral you hear the starter crank without even cranking the key but if your in drive, reverse, gear 1 and gear 2 or 3 it runs normal but for some reason in park and neutral it has issues with the starter making that nasty noise.

 

[chattacuda]

I am not really sure what you mean by runs normal in drive, reverse, etc. Are you saying it will start with it in gear? If so, there is a problem with either the wiring or the switch or both. What is 'suppose' to happen is when you turn your key the crank the car, the switch wire runs to one of the two push on relay terminals on the firewall. The other terminal is suppose to be connected to the nuetral safety switch. When the trans is in P or N, it completes a ground path for the relay and allows relay to send power to starter. Start by checking all these connections.

 

[RustyRatRod]

It's hard for me to decipher what you mean about a lot of stuff, Dominic. Please...refer to this post.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showpost.php?p=909781525&postcount=16

And again, not tryin to be an ***, but look at your posts here. No punctuation. Just one endless sentence. It's really difficult to try to figure out what you're trying to say a lot of times.

 

[HT413]

Yup. A lot of guys here wantin to help but ya gotta help us help you.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

ALrighty, when you do the bypass(on the starter relay bypass is what I meant) to start the car up in park the cars starter continues to crank. When you put it in reverse while the car is running the starter stops cranking(same with Drive, gear 1 and gear2). When you put it in neutral while the car is running the starter starts to crank again really bad. I will make a video for this one guys.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Sounds like either the strater relay is bad or the starter solenoid is bad. What happens is, the contacts become worn and essentially "weld" themselves together. It usually takes a jolt to knock them loose. Such as a tap with a hammer, or in your case the flywheel engaging the starter. Of course, it is all still a guess. The video might be helpful.

 

[coloradodave]

By 'bypass', I hope you don't mean that you are connecting the threaded top terminal to the screw on terminal below it on the starter relay, and leaving it there. If so, the starter WILL continue to run. This 'bypass' should only be to check the starter or to crank the engine until it starts, AND THEN REMOVED! If you leave the jumper wire on, you will mess up the starter and the flexplate.

 

[chattacuda]

OK, I think I understand what you are saying. It sounds to me like your relay wiring or your nuetral safety switch wiring is wrong. I would also like to know why you are having to bypass the switch to crank the car. If you have a multimeter, pull the wire off the 'G' terminal on the relay. It should be the one that runs to the nuetral safety switch on the transmission.
Put the meter on DC and make sure you have no voltage on this wire as you shift through all the gears with the switch on and off. If you have any voltage, stop. If not, thenset the meter to check continuityand with nothing turned on, you should read continuity to ground on this wire with the trans in neutral and park, and no continuity in all the other gears.
The wire on the 'I' terminal comes from the ignition switch and should ONLY have 12 volts on it when the switch is in the 'crank' position, not the 'run' position.
I am just guessing here, but sounds like you have 12v going to the 'I' terminal when the switch is on 'run' and a nuetral switch problem OR your nuetral switch is backfeeding 12 v to the relay, maybe from the power feed in the nuetral switch harness for the backup lights. Do your backup lights work in reverse?
Trying to help, give us some more info

 

[chattacuda]

I doubt the starter relay or solenoid is the problem since the starter only engages in certain gears. You are going to have bigger problems if you start the engine anymore till you figure this. Engaging the bendix with a running motor can damage the starter and the starter ring gear.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

TOtally agree, That is why I throw it in drive or reverse asap after starting it but. I havent been even doing that untill I figure out what is wrong but Chat I will admit man. Your thread and advise is exactly a good one man. I am definitely going to try that tonight after I put my gauges in.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

By 'bypass', I hope you don't mean that you are connecting the threaded top terminal to the screw on terminal below it on the starter relay, and leaving it there. If so, the starter WILL continue to run. This 'bypass' should only be to check the starter or to crank the engine until it starts, AND THEN REMOVED! If you leave the jumper wire on, you will mess up the starter and the flexplate.

Oh no, I take it off asap after starting.

 

[67 coronet]

if you are saying that the starter contiues to run after you remove the jumper then try this.take off the wire on your relay that goes to the ign switch.if you jump wire it with that wire disconected and the starter stays enguaged after you remove jumper then your relay is prob bad.if it fixes your prob,then your prob is the ign switch or crossed wires under the dash.just to be sure,look at the two wires on the starter and make sure there is no way they could touch each other as well.

 

[chattacuda]

if you are saying that the starter contiues to run after you remove the jumper then try this.take off the wire on your relay that goes to the ign switch.if you jump wire it with that wire disconected and the starter stays enguaged after you remove jumper then your relay is prob bad.if it fixes your prob,then your prob is the ign switch or crossed wires under the dash.just to be sure,look at the two wires on the starter and make sure there is no way they could touch each other as well.

what he is saying is the starter re-engages with the engine running any time he shifts into park or nuetral, but disengages in other gears, so the relay is changing state, just at the wrong time. definitely a wiring problem IMO. This is worth watching just to see what it turns out to be!

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Just for some foreshadowing what would your car do if your neutral safety switch was upside down?

What would your car do if the harness that hooks up to your neutral safety switch is upside down(the pigtail)?

This might help me troubleshoot.

 

[chattacuda]

Did you check the wire going to the NS switch for continuity to ground like I suggested several days ago? If you dont have a meter or know how to use one, ask someone to help you. I am trying to help you but you are not doing what we suggest.

 

[RustyRatRod]

To the OP....do you own a volt/ohmmeter? Do you know how to use one? Not bein smart, just asking straight up questions. They are cheap to buy and we can help you learn to use one if you don't know how. It sounds like you need one.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

UPDATE!!! I did the dc multimeter test the results were strange. On the G side wire there was no voltage. On the I side wire there was 1.1 volts in run position and 1.3 volts in the crank position. I did the G side test multiple times and the same results. The battery was fully charged as well so it wasnt because of that.