Would I have a bad ignition switch?

[coloradodave]

This hurts my brain but I can't stop reading this post!

 

[chattacuda]

uh, there should not be any voltage on the G wire. Put the meter on the ohms scale, connect one test lead to a good ground and the other lead to the wire that goes on the G terminal. You should have continuity to ground on the wire with the trans in P and N, and no continuity in R and D. If that is true, we can rule out the nuetral safety switch.

Next trace the I wire back to the ignition switch and check for voltage at the switch itself during crank. That will rule out the wire and the bulkhead connection. Let us know what you find.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Update. The reverse lights do work. to help through this I am going to check everything today.

 

[440roadrunner]

I KNOW the answers. It's the questions I don't understand

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Alright, the results came back on the ohms test. Park, Drive, Neutral and Reverse all came back with a 0.L I did this test almost 10 times on each gear cranking and just in run and even with the key in off position on each gear same thing.

 

[440roadrunner]

Dominic, it sounds to me like you have the starter relay


HOOKED UP WRONG

In the photo below, the two terminals at the top are what we are concerned about

DISCONNECT both of the "push on" terminals (the two at the top in the photo.) The car will now NOT crank with the key. Turn the key to run, in park, and start the car by jumpering across the two large exposed terminals (lower in the photo)

I will bet money the starter will operate normally.

NOW with the engine running, use a test lamp or meter to check the two wires you disconnected. I WILL BET that one of them will be hot. IF IT IS either this wire has a problem, if it's the correct wire, or it is the WRONG WIRE to be hooked to the relay

 

[chattacuda]

440, He said earlier the car WILL NOT start with the key. That is what initiated this post. But your suggestion is a good one to help troubleshoot and will provide some good info. I dont understand the open circuit readings above, do you 440? sounds like wrong wire running to the NS?

Dominic, I suggest you check the other wire you had hooked to the 'I' connection for continuity to ground with the switch off in the various trans shifter positions. Do not try with switch on or you may fry the meter. You may have them swapped. If the reverse lights work correctly, the plug on the transmission is in the right position

 

[RustyRatRod]

This is just what I like. Good, cheap entertainment.

 

[ArtH]

Yo Dom, are we ever going to see a picture of your car?

 

[440roadrunner]

440, He said earlier the car WILL NOT start with the key.

EXACTLY. The fact that the starter tries to re--engage in park/ neutral TELLS ME THIS scenario:

He has the WRONG wire hooked where the "start signal" should be, or else the yellow start wire is crossed in the harness

That is, one wire hooked to the start relay is HOT IN RUN

This would almost exactly explain the symptoms: Won't start with key, yet cranks in "run" when the shifter is in park or neutral

Those cars "may" have several connectors that hook to "ignition run" especially if the harness is out of something else (a 4 bbl car) or has been hacked up. The sixpacks used an idle solenoid, the 4 bbls used an idle retard solenoid.

One more thing that should be checked to tell if this is a bad switch, or a wiring problem is to go down to the IGN switch connector under the column, and pull out the yellow start wire. This will tell you two things:

IF the problem of the starter cranking goes away, you know it's in the switch, or the switch has become mis--wired.

IF you can apply power to the yellow, and cause the engine to properly crank in park/ neutral, you know that wire to the star relay is intact.

 

[RustyRatRod]

This just keeps gettin better. lol

 

[440roadrunner]

This just keeps gettin better. lol

Well come on, Stroke, don't be bashful!!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well come on, Stroke, don't be bashful!!

I've already tried to help keep the train on the tracks. I've had enough. lol

 

[ArtH]

This guy has more problems than a run over dog. I really think he should check out the local community college and take a couple night courses in auto mechanics. That's what I did a long time ago and it really helped. Either that or find a friend who has some knowledge. I strongly suspect he's way out of his depth here, no offense intended.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

This hurts my brain but I can't stop reading this post!

x2:headbang:

 

[Dominic Torreto]

well lets not forget how much we have fixed so far. Not to mention I told you guys I am only 20 years old. I have indeed learned a lot on this car and I am almost to the point were I can take this car on a test drive. All the turn signals and exterior lights work and I wired them all up. Last 440 road runner you got your money because you were right when I bought the new starter today I took the g side and I side wires off of the starter relay and the car did not engage the starter in neutral and park like it did before while running. Also, you were also right about the hot wire here is the results 6 volts while running on every gear on the I side wire. 3 volts in reverse while running on the g side wire, neutral was zero volts on the G side wire while running. 1.2 volts in drive on the g side wire while running and park was 1.7 volts on the g side wire while running.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Can you say I should look more towards the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch for this issue?

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Guys, I know sometimes this troubleshooting c an be a pain but like I said I highly appreciate the help. Not to mention look at the acomplishments we have alrighty done.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

update

The yellow wire had no voltage in run but 11.7 volts in crank. I did apply a voltage wire to the yellow wire and nothing in run and in crank nothing either. The same little click you hear in the starter relay every time and sometimes the starter cranks for a third of a second.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Dominic, do you have a Chrysler factory service manual for your car? If not, you need to STOP right now and get one. They have vehicle specific wiring diagrams for your car that will help you a ton. I wouldn't attempt it myself without a good diagram.