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Would you build it? Bore wall thickness.

So after what seems like an eternity of looking at unsuitable blocks. bouncing back and forth between going with a gen 3 etc, my wife has come out and said to just buy a ritter block through a local speed supply - due in August....
 
Of that I am aware. If you choose to build an engine not original on your continent you don't have to play by the same rules of physics?

Oh, I see, the stress on an engine is less in Australia! Something about the earth's rotational forces south of the equator then?

@IQ52 I see you've been watching "My Cousin Vinny" again.....:lol:
 
This thread is one of the main reasons why I decided to jump in the deep end and just buy a BME aluminum block!
The primary reason is related:
My power goals based on other 6bbl builds by great, legendary builders like IQ52 and a few others here have taken 440 and stroker RB engines, almost all of them doing STREET duty as well as the 1320, well into the 6XX HP and torque range. Now you guys know better than I do, but when you put the right parts in a properly built stroker and run it in the RPM range intended, even with the occasional slip ups, the power level where the main caps start chafing or walking or blocks start cracking, and all of the other issues that factory iron blocks have in the upper range....
What is the upper range of HP/TQ where there AREN'T ANY inherent problems by using a factory block?
Say 750HP for me to make a point.
If I got 650HP/675TQ from an iron block, I would be within 100 HP of the max.
Why put so much money and effort into a build with the ceiling that close? If for whatever reason you wanted to go faster and more power was the way to get there, you would have to start all over!!
So that's one BIG reason why I chose an aftermarket block, and the other references back to this thread: who can I trust to go through how many blocks until they find one that has the specs I need to make a solid foundation for the build? Even if I could, by the time they're through all the testing and prep work and girdle kit etc etc, I may still not have some of the advantages of the redesigned BME block, and shaving over 100 pounds off the front end is a bonus. Another reason is with a block that is usually built for the 1,000 HP plus range, how much better off I am not getting close to that with my power goals?
Not that difficult a decision for me, BUT I will admit, when you have to scrape up the money to do it, it definitely takes longer, but once it's done, it shouldn't ever disappoint, and there should be some built in peace of mind knowing I'm not running it on the edge of what it is built to handle.
JMO/YRMV
 
If your not living on the edge your taking up to much space....
 
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