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WS23 69 Coronet

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1965t5

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I stumbled onto a 69 RT with automatic recently that is allegedly a numbers matching car. I will call it a project because it needs to be painted and assembled and I assume not all numbers will match on the drivetrain. The underside of the body is done and painted. All body work was professionally done with full new quarters. It likely needs a few rounds of block sanding yet. Seats look very good, engine trans and all that looks ok. I dont have pictures to share but wondering if anyone has a gauge on what a restored shell with all the fixins is worth.
 
Pictures and more details of before & after conditions are needed before any advice can be given.
 
images
 
Appreciate the humor guys - keeps me humble I'll try to ask this another way......

If a person was to spend 3 grand on a 68-70 RT, I imagine there wouldnt be much left of it but if a person were to spend $5-7K on one, would you still expect it to be quite the rusted out hulk or can these be found in that price rage easily yet? I've not seen them for much under $15K in decent shape and drivable. I guess comments to that - anyone?
 
I'm no expert on these cars obviosuly but looking at production numbers, it looks like 68-69 RTs with 44o auto werent all that rare - the 70s yes, but still 4000-5000 made in the 8s and 9s.
 
1965t5 said:
Appreciate the humor guys - keeps me humble I'll try to ask this another way......

If a person was to spend 3 grand on a 68-70 RT, I imagine there wouldnt be much left of it but if a person were to spend $5-7K on one, would you still expect it to be quite the rusted out hulk or can these be found in that price rage easily yet? I've not seen them for much under $15K in decent shape and drivable. I guess comments to that - anyone?
Click to expand...

Your question requires some context. WHAT are you getting for that price? Hard top? Convertible? 440? Hemi? 6bbl? Transmission? Numbers matching? With or without original drive train? Options? Color? Desired result with the car? Total amount of body work and mechanical work needed?

A $3,000 car will require a lot of work regardless of whether it's an R/T or not. $5-7k is not enough of a bump to make a difference in value, quality or ease of restoration. Realistically, you will need to be over $10k, and possibly closer to $15k, for a drivable 440 automatic with decent sheet metal. You will need to spend $*** to get it safely street able so you can drive it while you spend xx years sorting out the rest.

Add 10-20% more for a four speed depending on the shape of the rest of the car. Even a rough convertible could be be mid to high teens or over 20, again depending on the total package.

The year makes a difference. Plan on spending more for a 70 than you would a 68. The 70 styling is a love or hate thing. 1970 R/T specific parts will be harder to find than 68 or 69 due to lower production numbers. Buy the most complete car you can if you want a 1970.

My 2 cents....
 
Mopars & Missiles said:
I agree with you on that. In fact I can guarantee that you or no one else will EVER find any of those cars in my garage in my lifetime. I only provide safe harbor for DODGE, RAM, & JEEP!
Click to expand...

Guess we can come over. Dodge Coronet R/T, Ram Pickup and Jeep Liberty in our stable.
 
69Coronetrt said:
Your question requires some context. WHAT are you getting for that price? Hard top? Convertible? 440? Hemi? 6bbl? Transmission? Numbers matching? With or without original drive train? Options? Color? Desired result with the car? Total amount of body work and mechanical work needed?

A $3,000 car will require a lot of work regardless of whether it's an R/T or not. $5-7k is not enough of a bump to make a difference in value, quality or ease of restoration. Realistically, you will need to be over $10k, and possibly closer to $15k, for a drivable 440 automatic with decent sheet metal. You will need to spend $*** to get it safely street able so you can drive it while you spend xx years sorting out the rest.

Add 10-20% more for a four speed depending on the shape of the rest of the car. Even a rough convertible could be be mid to high teens or over 20, again depending on the total package.

The year makes a difference. Plan on spending more for a 70 than you would a 68. The 70 styling is a love or hate thing. 1970 R/T specific parts will be harder to find than 68 or 69 due to lower production numbers. Buy the most complete car you can if you want a 1970.

My 2 cents....
Click to expand...
I appreciate that input - its high level and kind of supports where my mind was at.
 
Can anyone clarify a few other things please?

1) Does the "S" in the second digit of VIN symbolize anything specific? Is that what "suggests" an RT or does is there a bucket of special options it may involve. I havent seen the VIN plate of this car yet, just the VIN #.

2) How does a person confirm one of these cars is a real R/T? Badging is real easy to put on and I think its just a trim pkg - right?

3) Is there a way to validate a 440 as the HP version vs the standard one on the outside through carb, block, distributor, head numbers?
 
1. Yes, the S is special price code. Suggests R/T. Engine is in there too. Should be an L for 440.

2. See #1. Fender tag, build sheet, window sticker, stamps, casting dates all add to the investigation.

3. See #2. Stamps on block at the front should be your first stop. 906 heads in 68.
 
1-yes. WS VIN = R/T
2- confirm body numbers match VIN plate on a 69/70. For 68, and fender tag is present, match body numbers to fender tag. The VIN will not be on a 68 tag. For all years, match VIN stamped on engine and transmission to VIN plate if the original is present.
3- check pad in front of valley pan on driver's side. The engine assembly date will be stamped, as well as HP stamping, on the pad. Is the assembly date before the Scheduled Production Date, or within a few days after, the Date? Again, check VIN stamped on block to see if it matches. If the engine has been rebuilt, this means less until you determine when and how it was rebuilt. Look for a Carter carb on a 68/69. 70 applications are different. Chances are good things have been changed over the years.

Don't focus on any one particular item. Look at the total package to determine legitimacy and value of the car. A missing carb or distributor means less than model specific trim and intact options like an air grabber or side scoops.
 
69L48Z27 said:
1. Yes, the S is special price code. Suggests R/T. Engine is in there too. Should be an L for 440.

2. See #1. Fender tag, build sheet, window sticker, stamps, casting dates all add to the investigation.

3. See #2. Stamps on block at the front should be your first stop. 906 heads in 68.
Click to expand...

1970 VIN is different. Look for U or V.
906 heads used on numerous 68-70 RBs. Not indicitive of R/T status or particularly meaningful at this stage.
 
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