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Yankee Express RestoMod Project

1970RT said:
Now, that would be slick.

David
Click to expand...
Thanks! Actually I would go to the local graphics outfit and have a circular script produced in small letters to go around the outer edge of each cap. Less in your face. Subtlety is key...
 
Got the second pop up gas cap and dropped by Mike 67's place in NH to pick up the 67 R/T wheel well lip trim.

1013190856.jpg
1013190857a.jpg
 
Cut the hole for the second weld in pop up gas cap. Welded it in place. I little bodywork and finesse and she's all done.

1014191347.jpg 1014191347a.jpg 1014191347b.jpg 1014191347c.jpg 1014191347d.jpg 1014191347e.jpg 1014191347f.jpg 1014191348.jpg 1014191348a.jpg 1014191348b.jpg
 
I haven't been on in a long time to see how you have been doing with the 'ole girl. Well, as usual, you do not disappoint!
So glad you are soldiering on!! Lots of Great things happening! I like the color that you decided on with the copper. Should look Amazing!
Reminds me of a build that Dave Kindig (SP) did called " The Copper Caddy".
A lot of copper coloring and time to come out with a beautiful car.
Anyway, I will keep watch for the next update to your project.
 
thedodgeman said:
I haven't been on in a long time to see how you have been doing with the 'ole girl. Well, as usual, you do not disappoint!
So glad you are soldiering on!! Lots of Great things happening! I like the color that you decided on with the copper. Should look Amazing!
Reminds me of a build that Dave Kindig (SP) did called " The Copper Caddy".
A lot of copper coloring and time to come out with a beautiful car.
Anyway, I will keep watch for the next update to your project.
Click to expand...
Hey there! Thank you, thank you. To be placed in the company of Dave Kindig is yuge! I have no illusions that my work is anything as good as those guys but I thank you for the comparison!! Like Dave and company, I too try to look at the overall car and come up with a cohesive plan that is subtle yet transformative. Wish I had some of his crew to come and help me finish it!!
 
Ghostrider 67 said:
Hey there! Thank you, thank you. To be placed in the company of Dave Kindig is yuge! I have no illusions that my work is anything as good as those guys but I thank you for the comparison!! Like Dave and company, I too try to look at the overall car and come up with a cohesive plan that is subtle yet transformative. Wish I had some of his crew to come and help me finish it!!
Click to expand...
The body shop manager said body work and paint on Kindig cars 400 to 500 hours.:eek: $$$
 
Well...i'm moving backwards. I got disgusted with my first plan for the tail end of the car and tore it all out. The design nullifies some issues but created others. Others that I think the new design will address. The previous design has the tail light body/base being installed from the outside of the car and it makes the whole assembly stick out farther than I'd like it to. So now, when I'm finished with fabrication, the light base will install from inside the trunk. The main issue this solves is the sealing up of the trunk from the outside. I failed to apply the "KISS" rule before and I created a bunch of problems that, instead of revising the plan, I bulled ahead trying to solve each one. Now the mounting will be simpler, the seal is automatic, the shell/ body of the tail lights will become part of the rear face, lending it's rigidity to whole affair. I had been trying to make them two separate assemblies..now I can bolt in place the shell and IT will be the rear face rather than a sheet metal Rube Goldberg contraption...lol. I also failed to notice that the shell disassembles into three hunks. DUH. I will be able to use this feature to my advantage in assembly later. It was just me trying to be too clever....and botched the whole thing as a result. Pictures later.
 
Another perplexing issue was the drip edge over the light lens top edge. The last picture shows my idea to remedy that. Now I need to get a trunk seal lip and gutter ends from a 1968-69 Coronet. One with a regular trunk lid. I can get the gutter corners for $45 each new. Would still need the rail across the back between those ends. I would rather get a decent none rusty set up with it all welded together from the factory into one piece. That way I can trim it to my needs. I also need the last 12" of the trunk lid so I can slice off the underside to graft it to my lid so the seal rail meets the bottom of the lid correctly...

68yellcoronet30.jpg
68yellcoronet30 (2)_LI.jpg
the part outlined with a black line is what I want. I need the surface behind the trunk tail light bezel / trunk panel too. About 2" down from the top edge...
 
This is where I'm at with this rear face/trunk seal. I will need to get the corner gutters because mine are crap. The metal is thin. I will be climbing inside the trunk and closing the lid to figure out the best placement of the rear seal vertical lip.The metals thin on it too but it's what I have to work with. My question to anyone reading this is do I need to put a drip edge/overhang on the rear edge, out over the tail light lens and trim? Does it look funny without one? Looking at the 69 Coronet it seems to just have a 90* edge and is plain.
68yellcoronet30-jpg.jpg


If I weld the rail to the face of the metal I COULD Lay another strip across there that would butt up against that old edge and level that out while allowing me to leave a folded over edge that would overhang the lenses edge.



1101191357 (2).jpg
1101191357a (2).jpg
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Here's the 69 coronet rear face, not much different than what I'm doin...

upload_2019-11-1_15-45-2.png
 
I also could raise this panel a little, like a 1/2" or so. That would allow the upswept curve of the trunk gutter to meet the rails better. I'm only limited by the outer skin of the trunk lid. I can fabricate anything on the underside of the lid to match what ever I decide to do on this rail/panel.

1101191357a-2-jpg.jpg
 
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