Your RR Gear Ratio & Tire Diameter

[Mike Gaines]

To get an idea of what guys are running....

POST

1) Rear End Gear Ratio
2) Tire Diameter
3) Slick Width
4) Air Pressure in Slicks
5) RPM thru Traps
6) Cal Tracs (with CalTrac Mono Leaf Springs & Adj Shocks ?) or 4 Link or Super Stock Springs or Stock Springs with Snubber
7) Trans Brake or Foot Brake
8) Car Weight with gas and Driver
9) Typical or kinda Average ET & MPH

Please Post them in this order so we can keep them straight and easy to compare.
I think this info would be good for all.

Thanks

Picture of my 1963 Max Wedge Lightweight that I bought new in 1963 when I was 21 years old. Just walked into the Plymouth Dealer and ordered it. It was deliverd to me in 45 days. 1 of 3 Aluminum Front End 2 door Hardtops built in 1963. ( I liked hardtops not Post cars)

 

[dvw]

Dana 4.10
M/T 10.5wx31
Actual tread11"
13.5 psi Trap 7000-7100 rpm
Ladder, Koni doubles, 130 lb spring
Foot brake
3345 lbs
1.27-1.29, 5.8@118, 9.0-9.1@146-148
Doug

 

[Hemirunner]

Dana 3.73
28" Drag radial
9.5" tread width
16psi
Trap rpm 6500ish
Cal tracs and split monos
Trans brake
4190 race weight
10.90 at 130mph

 

[66Satellite47]

Dana 4.10
28.5"
11.5 Phoenix
13.5 to 15.0 psi
6,000 - 6,200 rpm
Espo leafs w/ snubber
Foot brake
3670#
11.09 @ 121.5 best 11 teens average
Bill

 

[Canyon707]

Dana 60 4.56
32"x14-15 9lbs Goodyears
Ladder bars and coil overs
Trans brake
3200 with me
10.72 @ 122 6100rpm

 

[RacerAL]

Dana 60 - 4.56
30x9 radial slick (20 lbs)
Ladder bar with coil over (Strange adj. shock)
trans brake (3800 rpm. launch)
3550# with me
6.70's @ 101 (no 1/4 mile times with newest setup ..but it should rpm around 7000-7100 thru the traps )

 

[Mike Gaines]

Guess I should put my info on here too:

1) 4.10 Dana
2) 28" tall tire
3) 11.25 slick width (M/T ET Streets Bias Ply)
4) 18lbs pressure
5) 6200RPM thru traps
6) Cal Trac Bars with Cal Trac Mono-Leaf Springs and Cal Trac RR Shocks set on 7
7) Foot brake (leave at 3000RPM)
8) 3680lbs with me and 5 gal gas
9) 10.98 ET @120.6MPH (Best of 1st 5 runs with new motor/setup..lots of test/tune to do yet)

 

[383man]

4.30's
30 x 9 radial slick
16 lbs
6300 in traps
SS springs and longer rear shocks
ft brake about 2200
3715 lbs
10.76 @ 124.79

 

[cudatom]

1) 4.10
2) 28"
3) 8"
4) 18psi
5) 5600 (1/8th) no 1/4 times yet
6) CalTrac Mono Leaf Springs & Rancho Adj Shocks set on 4 & 5
7) foot brake leave at 1500-1800
8) weight unsure (67 Belvedere Wagon so probably 3700-3800 w/me in it all steel)
9) 6.994 in the 1/8th but only 8 runs and having some fuel delivery issues. Same boat as you Mike I still have lots of testing to do.

 

[theman440]

1) 4.56 ratio
2) 30 inch dia tire
3) 9" inch wide tire
4) Air Pressure in Slicks - 20 psi
5) RPM thru Traps - 6800-7000
6) full CalTracs set up
7) Foot Brake - leave from idle
8) 3650lb race weight
9) Typical or kinda Average ET & MPH - 10.60 @ 124 mph

 

[deaks]

4.56 gear, 31" slicks 6300 shift through the line at 6700.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

1) Rear End Gear Ratio 4:10
2) Tire Diameter 29.5
3) Slick Width 13
4) Air Pressure in Slicks 12 lbs
5) RPM thru Traps 6900
6) Cal Tracs with split CalTrac Mono Leaf Springs & 4 Viking Adj Shocks
8) Car Weight with gas and Driver 3890
9) Typical or kinda Average ET & MPH. Best so far 115 MPH in the 1/8, 9.5's at just under 145 MPH
With more to be had

 

[LemonWedge]

1. 3.91
2. 27.1
3. 10" - 255/60r15 ET Street Radial
4. 18 psi
5. 6200
6. Calvert Split Mono's w/ Caltrack Bars & Summit shocks
7. Footbrake
8. 3750
9. Typical ET: 11.72 @ 113.8 (Best of 11.67 @ 114)

Plan this year is to go to MT 28x9 ProBracket Radials & 4.10's

 

[Roughbird72]

4.10:1
MT 275 Drag Radial(27.5)
17psi
6,400
SS springs
Foot brake
3,800#
11.32 @ 120

 

[splicer]

1) 3.73 gears
2) 28.1 Inches
3) 11.5 inches
4) 14.5 psi
5) 6400 rpm thru traps
6) Caltracs with SS springs and Rancho shocks
7) foot brake
8) 3750 lbs
9) 10.53 at 128 MPH

John B.

 

[Budnicks]

POST

1) Rear End Gear Ratio
2) Tire Diameter
3) Slick Width
4) Air Pressure in Slicks
5) RPM thru Traps
6) Cal Tracs (with CalTrac Mono Leaf Springs & Adj Shocks ?) or 4 Link or Super Stock Springs or Stock Springs with Snubber
7) Trans Brake or Foot Brake
8) Car Weight with gas and Driver
9) Typical or kinda Average ET & MPH

My old Silver & Black 68 RR 383/479ci ported alum. head, full roller etc.
1-7/8" stepped headers & scavenger collector 4-2-1
thru the full 3" Flowmaster Delta 50 exhaust out the back,
from quite a few years ago N/A...
I am too far away from running my current 68 RR car, right now
it'll be setup more as a drag-car in search of a corner/pro-touring kind of type car
with far less body movements, weight transfer, because of sway bars, restricted suspension &
so it will handle better...

1) 4.30:1
{might have been 4.10:1's, when it ran best, I honestly can't remember, I tried 3.73, 3.91 4.10 & 4.30's}

2) IIRC appr. 29.9" 315/60/15 Drag Radial old M/T

3) rear tire girth appr. 13", tread 11.25"
on 15" x 9.5" Halibrands so it would have a taller sidewall & better bite

4) 16-21 psi depending on track

5) 6700-6900rpm-"ish" in the traps, {not really sure it was accurate RPM}
depending on wheel spin off the launch, higher when it spun, like 7000-7200rpm

6) CalTracs full set-up with re-valved Lamb {Lenco} dbl adj. shocks front & rear

7) Foot Brake leaving at 2000-2200 rpm & flash shock it to about 4200 rpm at launch

8) car weight 3520#'s + 250 for me, fiberglass hood, trunk-lid & bumpers,
alum brackets, rear trunk mt. battery, 100#'s of ballist right in-front of the trunk latch
Capps tubular front suspension & K-member, lighter-weight 2) Elite 1100 ProCar/Scat seats & 5pt harness, 4pt {kind of a 6pt} rollbar

9) best et of 9.77 @ 135mph {1.24 60ft best, wore out, high 1.30's}
9.90's to 10,0's all day long @ 130+, even at a non-prepped test & tune,
car was way too fast for it's safety equipment, it was my street/strip car

10) Best ever in that car 8.58 @ 156 best wheels up {IIRC 1.28 on the rear wheels 60ft},
100* day in July Sac. Raceway test & tune, not exactly primo prep conditions,
3000+ DA, all with a progressive 300 shot TopGun Plate N20 &
a 3.73 gear, same engine, same 4200 stall, with a ported matched Tarantula intake,
1" spacer plate adapter, 1" phenolic spacer, carb heat shield, bypass reg &
a 1200+cfm 4500 Quickfuel Dominator & the full exhaust dropped out,
with a 18" header extension instead
probably another 100#'s less weight
about the same trap RPM IIRC but allot faster mph & et

 

[Canyon707]

Jush had my car cornerbalanced sorry its upside down.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Canyon...tell us more about the "corner balance" ....
Thanks, mike

 

[dvw]

Canyon...tell us more about the "corner balance" ....
Thanks, mike

Mike I'll see if I can shed some light on this. You can load the tires differently from left to right. If you add load to the right rear it will also add load to the left front. As a general rule lower power will usually like slightly more weight on the right rear. This can be accomplished by preloading the ladder bar, 4 link, or Cal Track. That being said you have to be careful not to add to much preload or you'll end up with excess weight on the left front. Scaling gives you an idea of your starting point. The bottom line is how the car goes down the track. Beware of preloading by using the torsion bars. You can preload the left front bar it will add load to the right rear. That is until the front wheels are off the ground. Now you have lost any preload you added. Can get very scary on a car that leaves hard with the wheels up. Don't ask how I know. Trouble is most cars are drivers side heavy. So when you get the rears even the left front is heavy.Take Canyons car above. I'm assuming this is with drivers weight.
LF 885 RF 719 front 1604
LR 753 RR 802 rear 1555
right side 1521
left side 1638
cross weight 1472/1687 46.6%
My bet is it probably has a little more on the right rear than it needs especially at his ET and having large tires. I would take 30lbs of load out of the right rear to start. Now we should have
LF 855 RF 749
LR 783 RR 772
right side 1521
left side 1638
Cross weight 1532/1627 48.4%
Still not perfect but much closer. This can also be done at the track a little at a time but it may hook nice then be a handful if you're trying to tighten it up at the stripe. When I built my car every effort was made to place anything I could on the right side to offset driver weight. here's what mine looked like. It still needed a little tweak. As I stated before we used the torsion bar to set the preload. After it started picking up the wheels it would go right. This required zeroing the torsion bar and adding preload with the ladder bar instead. I haven't scaled it since but my bet is that it's still pretty close.
LF 926 RF 878
LR 760 RR 779
Front 1804 53.9%
Rear 1539 46.1%
right side 1657
left side 1686
Cross 1638/1705 49%
Total 3343 lbs w/me full fuel
Doug

 

[Mike Gaines]

Doug...thanks. Typically where can a guy find scales like this ?