Bulkhead connector how to.....

[rp23g7]

Ok so call me a dork, the Bee is dead, no power to anything, pretty sure its the fusable link. Ho the heck do you remove the bulkhead connector?

Never done it before and dont want to ruin anything, besides not being able to get a good view of the darn thing with out crawling over the fender.

 

[TS5064]

it should have a single bolt in the center of it. like a 5/16 socket to unscrew it. your fuseable links are buy the starter relay or battery. ck them first

 

[rp23g7]

single bolt? on the dash side of things? yeah my fusable link is the blue wire attached to the relay, had a issue with it before killing the car, but starting again after 10 min or so.

 

[Budnicks]

Oh yes the trouble area on many a Mopars, The main bulkhead connectors on the firewall of 60's to early 70's Mopars is held in place with 2 plastic clips 1 on either side, there are 3 of them in the main bulkhead connections, the top 1 is were the drk. blue fuseable link is at far left side if I remember correctly, you very carefully pry them outwards {the plastic hold down retaining clips}, it old plastic & will break very easily, while prying out on the clips, rock the connectors slightly it will aid to remove them, if rust or corrosion is set in {very common affair}, when you put the connectors back together make sure all of the connections are clean, free of rust or oxidation, clean each connection with a small brass or stainless brush or pipe cleaner work also, then clean all connections with an aerosol alcohol based electrical contact cleaner that evaporates in just a few minutes at the most, then it's very important apply a small dab of dielectric grease to each individual connection be careful not to slop it every were... This is a very common area to have problems in 60's-70's Mopar electrical systems, everything goes thru those connectors, thru the Amp gauge... Good luck, you could also hard wire in a 12 volt re-setable type breaker or a inline fuze in place of the stock fuze-able link... There is a great site that sells components & has great tech. fixes for that area worth looking at www.MadElectrical.com ....

 

[rp23g7]

cool thanks Budnicks, i wasnt sure if the plasic clips held it or not, what amp inline fuse should i use in place of it? I already did the alternator bypass on it, still gotta do the main wire pass through on the bulkhead connector.

 

[Budnicks]

Fuze

cool thanks Budnicks, i wasnt sure if the plasic clips held it or not, what amp inline fuse should i use in place of it? I already did the alternator bypass on it, still gotta do the main wire pass through on the bulkhead connector.

I would think a 10-15amp no more than 20amp would be more than adequate, the original wire is 12/14ga with a 18/20ga. blow out section, "I believe" don't quote me... It's meant to save everything down the line after it, so you don't fry your electronics because of a spike or short...

 

[Coronet 500]

Here is a good read:http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

 

[Satellite65]

Why do you need to remove the bulkhead connector?

 

[rp23g7]

finally got around to looking at the connector. The Fusable link seems bad to me, took the plugs out, but how do you get the wires out of the plug? I can force them out the back if thats the way to do it, dont want to screw something up though.