440 Six Pack, A12 DRIVABILITY problems...

[RM23M9A]

My A12 started to run like crap right after a few short high RPM drag racing bursts on a local street Monday. 7/13/2020, Falls on its face upon acceleration, I get an Umpf, then NO throttle at all, until it seems to jump to a spot where it wants to run faster, pedal moves freely, smooth acceleration "Revs" smoothly in NEUTRAL or PARK, but it has a choppy, lopy idle camshaft. (My Fathers not here any longer to know exactly what cam etc he put in it.) then it Jumps into a high RPM... I think its electrical, my coil is old, ECU, voltage reg, Ballast resistor, are all old. I have new DASH, and ENGINE wiring harnesses from Year One. COIL, Volt Reg, Dist Cap, Ballast Resistor on the way,)
I used to know these things well with any 4 bbl car. Suddenly? Not so much.There's no "Cruising Throttle".
Look at THIS MESS!

I dont know what this black "Goo" running down the firewall is? From Voltage Regulator area?
I mean, actual sticky caked, "Goo"! LoL

Here is what I DO know-
(Block IS stamped with an "A" assuming .020 Overbore, Casting 2-17-1969, car has 727 Automatic, VERY stout transmission, about a .280/.292 cam, 4:10 rear-gears,carb gaskets are on the way, Hooker Super Comp headers, ECU and Voltage regulator are old, car was my fathers. Ran like a top for the first month I drove it. But after "Running the piss out of it for 1 night, now I have this issue, Carbs seem to be getting enough fuel, timing light tells me it's set at 17° BTDC. Ran fine like said for a month, gets about 8 mpg. Seems my little Drag Race night found a weak spot.
attachFull976224

I Know this has been asked a million +1 times, but be nice to find someone my age or older (51) that has had THIS Problem...

 

[tonysrt]

Coil voltage in the key run position should be at least 6-8 volts. Did you try to replace ballast? You can check continuity of ballast resistor with an ohm meter. Just disconnect two wires and check for resistance across the 2 lugs, should be about 1 ohm.

 

[kiwigtx]

I dont know what this black "Goo" running down the firewall is? From Voltage Regulator area?

Sounds like the resin filling compound inside either the VR or ECU is getting hot and liquifying.
Easy enough to remove them in turn and see which one it is.

 

[70chall440]

If it is running like crap it could be a lot of things from problems in the ignition system to a piece of crap in one of or multiple carbs. Since these do not have an ODB port, you are going to have to go "old school" and do some testing and more than likely a process of elimination. Start at the easiest and move to the harder items and you will most likely find it or you may not and it will seem to fix itself. Welcome to old car ownership...

 

[Lionized]

Your ECU is shot.
I practically guarantee it.

 

[RM23M9A]

Coil voltage in the key run position should be at least 6-8 volts. Did you try to replace ballast? You can check continuity of ballast resistor with an ohm meter. Just disconnect two wires and check for resistance across the 2 lugs, should be about 1 ohm.

Ok, so, Coil + Side, w/Key-Run position= 00.27 V, (can't be healthy!?)

Your ECU is shot.
I practically guarantee it.

Man, I pray its that easy.

Ballast DOES have continuity, resistance, (is futile lol), I will check, riiiiight neow,
It is..... 1.4 ohms (as small chunk of ceramic falls away attatching leads)...

 

[RM23M9A]

Sounds like the resin filling compound inside either the VR or ECU is getting hot and liquifying.
Easy enough to remove them in turn and see which one it is.

So I did remove both, here's maybe a small HOLE in resin on back of ECU?

 

[HawkRod]

I'll also bet ECU with a possible weak coil as possibility #2. Check or swap out the two of them and you will hopefully find the problem.

Good Luck!

Hawk

 

[RM23M9A]

Coil voltage in the key run position should be at least 6-8 volts. Did you try to replace ballast? You can check continuity of ballast resistor with an ohm meter. Just disconnect two wires and check for resistance across the 2 lugs, should be about 1 ohm.

Coil V in "Key/Run"= 0.26V
Ballast resistance = 1.4 Ohms

Not healthy, from what I'm beginning to recall & learn.
(I used to be a "Tech", Dodge dealership. Never had to deal with this, was all OBD2)
2003 I joined the Army due to a divorce, had my "Bell Rung" more than once. Many things I used to know or be good at are long gone. Took months to re-learn what YEAR it was..lol

Thanks for the assistance!
It'll get there ;-)

 

[RM23M9A]

I'll also bet ECU with a possible weak coil as possibility #2. Check or swap out the two of them and you will hopefully find the problem.

Good Luck!

Hawk

Thanks! I will have new coil,ECU,Cap,Rotor & Ballast Resistor next week. As well as GUTTING ALL of this wiring.
All new Year One Dash & engine wiring... Thats easy part. IF it helps, it surely can't hurt this mess..

 

[RM23M9A]

I'll also bet ECU with a possible weak coil as possibility #2. Check or swap out the two of them and you will hopefully find the problem.

Good Luck!

Hawk

Coil HAS to be shot. I re-installed the MISSING coil bracket last week. My father apparently forgot to put it back on. Was laying on a shelf in his garage! That certainly disturbed the wiring mess..
Looks CORRECT now though.

 

[383man]

Ok, so, Coil + Side, w/Key-Run position= 00.27 V, (can't be healthy!?)
View attachment 976335

Man, I pray its that easy.

Ballast DOES have continuity, resistance, (is futile lol), I will check, riiiiight neow,
It is..... 1.4 ohms (as small chunk of ceramic falls away attatching leads)...
View attachment 976332

You sure your meter is set right ? Car would not run if coil voltage was that low with key on at coil + side. Many things could cause that but the car would not run whether its actually not getting proper volts or the coil or ECU is grounding the primary circuit pulling the volts that low. I would do what you said anyway as its a good idea by the looks of things. Good luck , Ron

 

[Chargerjase]

I am glad you are replacing your wiring harness. That could be your issue there, not to mention a fire hazard.
As mentioned before, the black resin is from your ECU. I had exactly the same thing on my car.

 

[kiwigtx]

So I did remove both, here's maybe a small HOLE in resin on back of ECU?
View attachment 976341

I had a similar situation...component got hot enough to blow the resin out. Replace or upgrade to something else...like a Rev-N-Nator.
http://www.thertgarage.com/products.html

Currently backordered, but if you want one sooner I can help you out.

 

[RM23M9A]

You sure your meter is set right ? Car would not run if coil voltage was that low with key on at coil + side. Many things could cause that but the car would not run whether its actually not getting proper volts or the coil or ECU is grounding the primary circuit pulling the volts that low. I would do what you said anyway as its a good idea by the looks of things. Good luck , Ron

I'll DOUBLE check that to be sure. I agree though, it starts!?
Meter set to "Volts DC"
I'll take a pic, with Key in "Run Position", grounded to battery, and Pos lead on + side of coil.

 

[RM23M9A]

I'll DOUBLE check that to be sure. I agree though, it starts!?
Meter set to "Volts DC"
I'll take a pic, with Key in "Run Position", grounded to battery, and Pos lead on + side of coil.
View attachment 976698

 

[RM23M9A]

I had a similar situation...component got hot enough to blow the resin out. Replace or upgrade to something else...like a Rev-N-Nator.
http://www.thertgarage.com/products.html

Currently backordered, but if you want one sooner I can help you out.

I orderd a "High Rev 7500" fro a reliable e bay seller, should be here Monday 7/20/20

I get 00.27V from NEG side of coil also... That correct?
Can't be good!

 

[RM23M9A]

I had a similar situation...component got hot enough to blow the resin out. Replace or upgrade to something else...like a Rev-N-Nator.
http://www.thertgarage.com/products.html

Currently backordered, but if you want one sooner I can help you out.

I guess that would do it, when I worked as Tech 10 years ago I know the Ford Esape coil-on-Plug thing was junk. TSB out on em they were that bad.
Hopefully, that is the issue here.
Coil reading on NEGATIVE side, key in RUN position..lol
Meter IS set correctly I'm sure?
VoltsDC?

 

[RM23M9A]

I had a similar situation...component got hot enough to blow the resin out. Replace or upgrade to something else...like a Rev-N-Nator.

Did your issue act same as mine? Stumble on acceleration,then higher RPMs ran better? I DO see a lot of forms where timing is set everywhere! Unlike the decal on L fender (5° BTDC LoL).

Mine is at 17°! And idle fluctualates between 690 and 786 RPM! Crazy!

 

[kiwigtx]

I guess that would do it, when I worked as Tech 10 years ago I know the Ford Esape coil-on-Plug thing was junk. TSB out on em they were that bad.
Hopefully, that is the issue here.
Coil reading on NEGATIVE side, key in RUN position..lol
Meter IS set correctly I'm sure?
VoltsDC?
View attachment 976701

That just shows a small voltage difference between ground and the negative of the coil.