440 Six Pack, A12 DRIVABILITY problems...

[kiwigtx]

Measure the DC Volts between Coil + and - terminals with the key in the 'ON' position.

 

[RM23M9A]

That just shows a small voltage difference between ground and the negative of the coil.

Yeah,.not to mention the small amount presesnt in the cables once turned on.. Hopefully new coil & ECU fixes this. Bummin"

 

[RM23M9A]

Measure the DC Volts between Coil + and - terminals with the key in the 'ON' position.

Ok, will do!
00.00V between +/- poles on coil with KEY in RUN.

 

[RM23M9A]

Ballast shows 1.4 ohms with NO connections to it.

 

[RM23M9A]

Coil voltage in the key run position should be at least 6-8 volts. Did you try to replace ballast? You can check continuity of ballast resistor with an ohm meter. Just disconnect two wires and check for resistance across the 2 lugs, should be about 1 ohm.

Yeah checked again today, Ballast resist is still 1.04 Ohms.. Parts by Monday!

 

[RM23M9A]

If it is running like crap it could be a lot of things from problems in the ignition system to a piece of crap in one of or multiple carbs. Since these do not have an ODB port, you are going to have to go "old school" and do some testing and more than likely a process of elimination. Start at the easiest and move to the harder items and you will most likely find it or you may not and it will seem to fix itself. Welcome to old car ownership...

Yep first issue was major fuel leak from ECS center carb vent. Needle & Seat had a chunk of crap in it. Seemed to fix that, ordered NEW fittings, springs, filters & gaskets from Chicago carburetor.. 6 Pack Fun has Begun!

 

[kiwigtx]

Ok, will do!
00.00V between +/- poles on coil with KEY in RUN.

That must be with the original ECU still connected?

 

[RM23M9A]

That must be with the original ECU still connected?

No I had it.removed. These are just coil only readings.
Hooked up Voltmeter to.Orange Box, red clamp on Pid 1 or top of plug pin? 0 resistance, 0 continuity, on ECU

 

[RM23M9A]

I have since pulled the Volt Reg and ECU out to install new ones when they arrive. Does that terminate all the tests I just did?

 

[RM23M9A]

That must be with the original ECU still connected?

No I had it out. Its ALL out now. New parts tomorrow

 

[RM23M9A]

 

[RM23M9A]

 

[RM23M9A]

Gutted.. 7-19-2020

 

[RM23M9A]

Kinda wondered, "Where's the Fusible Link"? LoL

 

[383man]

I was gonna ask you if it was MSD ign but I take it you have the Mopar ign. I don't know what you have apart now but I was going say to unhook the coil + wire and then check the volts on it with key on. It should read battery volts like that since it would be open circuit. And if it was MSD I could understand the near 0 volts to the coil + with key on since the coil in MSD is not hooked to a 12 volt run wire through a ballast like a stock ign is as both coil wires go to MSD box in that setup and can get up to 300 volts when the capacitor fires the coil in MSD but it may be near 0 with just key on with MSD. Anyway it looks like you have her tore apart. Good luck with it , Ron

 

[RM23M9A]

I was gonna ask you if it was MSD ign but I take it you have the Mopar ign. I don't know what you have apart now but I was going say to unhook the coil + wire and then check the volts on it with key on. It should read battery volts like that since it would be open circuit. And if it was MSD I could understand the near 0 volts to the coil + with key on since the coil in MSD is not hooked to a 12 volt run wire through a ballast like a stock ign is as both coil wires go to MSD box in that setup and can get up to 300 volts when the capacitor fires the coil in MSD but it may be near 0 with just key on with MSD. Anyway it looks like you have her tore apart. Good luck with it , Ron

Yeah, it's MoPar Elect. Ign.
I had 1.5V at coil + with key on before ALL wiring was yanked. I have dash harness and engine harnesses and almost every wire from front seats to alternator out. Luckily I've been thru this a few times. Someone really hacked it up, usual Ammeter/Alternator lead was long gone, circuit board had home grown repairs, (lol), of course my father really only drove it 1/4 mile at a time.

Most of what I found were things Ive done myself when I was 18 and owned a 73 Rallye Challenger 340 car. Tail lights "Jumped" to the wiper switch + wire etc, etc.. Pretty butchered up! Of course in 1988 there wasn't a Year One (That I knew of). Some of the pics I have are really worth at least 100 words..

New dash harness goes in today, still waiting on Year One to get different engine harness to me. Hell I'm a "Bread & Butter Client" there lately! Found a seller on e bay with the Black dash light Twist sockets. I had an MSD on a 72 Cuda once, reliable stuff.
But? Being an A12 car here?
Rather have it as OEM as possible. Just hoping it starts up and everything works better than last week. Probably $700 in wiring,ECU,Volt Reg,coil etc..Can't imagine what my labor charge would be for someone else.
The "Crap" on the floorboard didnt even belong in the dash.

 

[RM23M9A]

Did make one really cool find!
Stuck on top of heater box.
Back into glove box where it BELONGS!