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1969 Plymouth Roadrunner Restoration

I would go with a frame jig. As rotted out as that floor is I think a rotisserie would make it flex in the middle.
 
I would go with a frame jig. As rotted out as that floor is I think a rotisserie would make it flex in the middle.
Excellent Point.

Thank you! That's the direction I was leaning too.

Now comes the fun part: the design. Gonna watch a ton of YouTube videos.

I wonder if I can make a "universal" frame Jig. That's could be designed to adapt to other B-body cars? Nonetheless, the bird-in-hand is the 69 Roadrunner. That's our focus!

Thank you again for the guidance!

Semper Fi
Sabre_3
 
Excellent Point.

Thank you! That's the direction I was leaning too.

Now comes the fun part: the design. Gonna watch a ton of YouTube videos.

I wonder if I can make a "universal" frame Jig. That's could be designed to adapt to other B-body cars? Nonetheless, the bird-in-hand is the 69 Roadrunner. That's our focus!

Thank you again for the guidance!

Semper Fi
Sabre_3
Poke around on here. While I have no experience in building a custom frame jig, I'm sure that there are at least 3 members that have.
That's what this place is for. :thumbsup:
 
Ya...it's trashed!

I'll send some pictures ASAP!
Well...ok....

We have a donor dash from a Satellite!

Good stuff!

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Poke around on here. While I have no experience in building a custom frame jig, I'm sure that there are at least 3 members that have.
That's what this place is for. :thumbsup:
Many thanks!

I have to build up my resources and come up with a design. I'll canvass YouTube and keep nose'n around FBBO.

I'll post the design once I come up with one.

Semper Fi
Sabre_3
 
Great car and it will be fantastic when its finished indeed.
Always wanted a 69 Runner and never got one as yet!

Sold my 69 Charger due to financial issues but the new owner is getting on well.
I had it media blasted when the car was in LA, but once all the rot was cut out that was a pointless exercise.

I would fit the new floor pans and then it can go onto a rotisserie.
That way you can do the underside properly, which is the worst job by far!

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Try not to think of the end result too early and don't waste time on needless tasks.
The underfloor grey is much darker than the pictures show.

First picture is primer the second is two pack paint.

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The best is when she is upside down, its kinda freaky!

The frame supports with this rotisserie go onto the bumper bolt holes.
But when the car is upside down it sags so we added more supports.

Good luck and Semper Fi from me too, UK John.

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rear supports on Charger.jpg
 
Buying new or rebuilding is the biggest worry on any resto?
An R/T car has special parts that need careful resto.

A resto-rod can have R/T spec parts fitted and saves many hours of work.
Rebuilding the R/T springs was a nightmare and a weeks work.

Fitting new aftermarket springs is an hours work...

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Here’s the frame jig I made. There’s a diagram on the web I built it off of. I built it a bit high so I could get underneath the body for floor panel figment and such. I would recommend you put it on rollers. After the one piece floor and one piece trunk floor and other repairs were accomplished I put it on the rotisserie. I can’t imagine have it on the rotisserie and doing that sort of work. Especially the rear cross member install.

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Buying new or rebuilding is the biggest worry on any resto?
An R/T car has special parts that need careful resto.

A resto-rod can have R/T spec parts fitted and saves many hours of work.
Rebuilding the R/T springs was a nightmare and a weeks work.

Fitting new aftermarket springs is an hours work...

View attachment 1825704
Absolutely amazing sir!

Thank you so very much for sharing! I'm thinking about a multiple Phased approach.

Right now my 69 Roadrunner may have structural issues that could cause more problems once I start rotiss-erating?? The unibody.

Phase-0: chemical dipping with e-coating. I've been asking around and have a few leads (Evansville Indiana, Indianapolis Indiana, Chicago Illinois,...etc). During this process, I'll meticulously document all existing parts, cross compare to the 1969 Plymouth service manual, and detail any missing parts on a MS Excel Spreadsheet.

Phase-1: So, I'm thinking about designing a frame jig to ensure everything is straight. In theory, and if fabricated properly, I should be able to replace structural members without much issue.

Phase-2: Rotisserie! I'm already talking to local friends to see if I can purchase a Rotisserie. Once Phase-1 is complete, throw her on the Rotisserie and do the underside of the car properly.

What do you think? Is this a good strategy? Any guidance?

Semper Fi
Sabre_3
 
Here’s the frame jig I made. There’s a diagram on the web I built it off of. I built it a bit high so I could get underneath the body for floor panel figment and such. I would recommend you put it on rollers. After the one piece floor and one piece trunk floor and other repairs were accomplished I put it on the rotisserie. I can’t imagine have it on the rotisserie and doing that sort of work. Especially the rear cross member install.

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Thank you so much for sharing!

Can you jig be adapted to accept other B-body vehicles without much adaptation?

It appears like you've designed a sliding railing system that allows for quick modification for different factory contact points.

I can only weld (120V 30A) up to 3/16" steel. Will that thickness be adequate to properly support a B-Body frame or should I go for higher Voltage (240V)?

Thank you so much for sharing!

Semper Fi
Sabre_3
 
You only need a chassis jig when you remove rear quarters and rear wheel houses.
Full floor pan will tighten up the car straight away then rotisserie.

There is no weight at the front end once the fenders are removed.
The centre of gravity is about six inches in front of the rear spring mounts.

If you rear end is sound then you don't need a chassis jig.
Good luck in all you do.

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Need some advice....

I have a lot of organizing, tagging, bagging and meticiculous inventoring parts. During this period of time, I'll be saving and building my financial resources to invest and commit to the restoration. So, which direction makes sense?

My Goal is a complete ground up restoration/resto-mod. Should I fabricate a Frame Jig or Purchase a Rotisserie?

Frame Jig Option: If fabricated properly, I could "lock in" the uni-body factory dimensions for precise reconstruction. Ideal for Frame Rail, Cross member and rocker panel replacement (if required). My concern is the Frame Jig may or may not be useful for other/future B-body Projects without modifications.

Rotisserie: facilitate ease of access to most/all areas of the car. Can use Rotisserie on other projects after the roadrunner. Might not be able to maintain factory dimensions if structural support needs replaced.

What would you all recommend?

Please advise.

Semper Fi
Sabre_3

I put cars on the rotisserie last........ after 3/4 of all the welding is complete
 
I've Got Updates...

Opened the trunk and there is little doubt I'm gonna be fabricating a frame jig. Take a look at the pics...

It's that new stealth technology trunk panel technology, high-speed-low-drag and fully transparent :lol:

Anyone buying stock in Auto Metal Direct? Better get ahold of some shares if publicly traded...I think the value is about to increase in the future...

Also, I got ahold of an chemical emersion outfit out of Indianapolis Indiana named ProStrip Indy (Home). I got a quick price quote for the following:
- Bare Body Shell = $2,300
- Fenders = $125/each
- Doors = $125/each
- Hood = $200
- Decklid = $160

This would put the shall and parts in a bare clean metal with a water-based rust inhibitor applied in the final rinse. Unfortunately, they do not offer e-coating but they gave me a lead on a service in Elkhart Indiana that offers the E-Coat Epoxy Primer

Good Times!

Semper Fi,
Sabre_3

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Looks like you'll be busy doing repairs. Good thing much of the goodies needed can be had.
 
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