Recent content by R/T Boy 67

The holley carb adapter that you have there is the key to making it all work.

I would mock it up and see wnat you need, before spending dime one. I went the other way On a car years ago, but I remember it as being straight forward, without buying any parts. You will also have to address throttle and kickdown linkage.

Fuel filler housing.

If it was mine, I would would leave the distribution block alone and plumb an adjustable proportioning valve Into the rear circuit.

The AFB type carbs act just like a vacuum secondary holley. They use airflow / vacuum to open the secondaries even though the throttle blades are open.

The OP has a driveshaft already, and is just wanting to know if it is the correct one. I would never suggest having a driveshaft built to the length from a chart.

Yes. The center of one u-joint bore in the driveshaft to the center of the other one. As noted above, factory tolerances were not great, so the best way is to assemble and measure, but that 56.17" came from the factory parts manual, so if your driveshaft is that length then it should work.

According to my info. the center to center length is 56.17".

On marine engines that turn left, there is a long flanged cast iron tube that fits down inside that prevents the gear from moving up. They use a longer distributor shaft to make up for the flange thickness.

If your drum was full of grease then your outer seal is toast.

If the cam moves in and out it will turn the distributor, which will affect timing.

Different divisions call the same paint code by different names. Sorry for the blurry picture, my tablet is a POS.

Echo.

Code 3 is a 1968 model year colour but it is listed as charger red in my book. I don't know anything about corporate red.

That is about as late in the model year as you're going to get.