Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Do you know for a fact that the standard ammeter dash wire to the battery is connected the ammeter along with the fleetby-pass wire? The fleetby-pass also involves cutting off and tapping back the original dash harness ammeter leads, should only have the by-pass ammeter to battery run active...
Sure I know two active fuse link shouldn’t be there and hence my later correction when I began that tipically thread from dodgecharger.com back in 2007.
There is a 73 diagram which also shows a diff bypass method. I have posted around that one too.
...time period are verry stout and can handle quite a bit of current if the connections/insulators are not abused or neglected.
For the fleetby-pass, the dash harness 12ga ammeter wires were cut and taped off because the bulkhead terminations in the charge path are being by-passed with larger...
I kinda have mine like that now. The exception is that the stock black and red wires are still connected to the ammeter. They still go through the bulkhead, but the OEM wire going from the starter relay to through the bulkhead is also a fusible link.
1. I understand that it's better to...
...all the factory loads you seemed concerned with. As mentioned, only one run (one fusible link) from the battery to the ammeter, preferably not though the bulkhead disconnects.
Do not double up on the fusible link.
Another approach, upsized wiring, full bulkhead by-pass, "The FleetBy-pass".
My fleetby-pass took the charge wires from alternator through the firewall to the ammeter and from the ammeter back through the firewall to the starter relay. The bulkhead was by-passed. My ammeter remains in the circuit and fully functional. Crackedback’s kit was headlights only.
To be clear Crackedback’s charge circuit by-pass kit would not be considered as the factory “fleetby-pass” as discussed here. As I understand it, his kit by-passes the ammeter, defeating it’s purpose altogether. The later factory fleetby-pass is a bulkhead connection by-pass, the ammeter...
As mentioned, it refers the factory bulkhead by-pass, commonly referred to as the factory “Fleet” by-pass as it is mostly found in fleet production (Police/Taxi) with a high output factory alternator. The matching engine compartment diagram is on page 8-128 in the ’73 Dodge manual. The original...
...loads at all if all loads, including added aftermarket loads, are correctly placed on the alternator side of the ammeter.
The factory “fleetby-pass” is a charge circuit bulkhead connector by-pass, ammeter is fully functional. The bulkhead Packard connectors are the weakest link in the...
I’m going to modify my harness to delete the questionable bulkhead connections. Everything looks pretty straightforward,
Remove A1B-16DBL, increase wire size from alternator to 8 gage etc, but my only question is, does pin 18 share R6-12BK, which will now be called R6-8BK, with the new R6C-12BK...
...to do with this subject. When charging system is not operating, the battery is only voltage potential device.
Do you know what the “fleetby-pass” is? Chrysler eventually by-passed the bulkhead charge circuit terminations with direct runs to a modified shunted 80amp ammeter on police/taxi...
FWIW I did the fleetby-pass with 10 gauge wire, used Crackedback’s kit and LEDs everywhere but the headlights, which are OEM seal beams, with no problems with a stock 60 amp alternator. I put an amp clamp meter on and get 15 amps at idle, in gear @775 rpm, no lights. With lights on I get 17...
Yes, I touched on the factory “fleetby-pass” a bit in the video. As another example of the factory awareness of the bulkhead Packard connector weakness in the charge circuit from the time is a C-body recall (Recall 48549) that took place in the mid-seventies. Early seventies C-bodies ran this...
...using only larger wires to by-pass the bulkhead connections for vehicles having a 60,65, or 100 amp alternator from the factory. The fleetby-pass would still use an ammeter as indicated in the diagrams but an internally shunted ammeter scaled/ranged to +/- 80 amps. No charging system idiot...
Fred once again performed the menial task of fetching parts for one of our "modern" Dodges today.
It occurred to me that this hasn't been the first time for such duty for him either.
Often is the time he's been called upon to fetch needed parts for either the '04 Ram (things like
a radiator, a...
Changed my driving habits as leaving middle-age approaching geezer-hood, now arrived. Most being keeping a safe distance from vehicles ahead, something that would piss me off more than anything was being tailgated. Obvious to the dipshit behind I’M just keeping a safe space btw me and vehicle in...
The fleet/bulkhead by-pass as been diagramed/discussed here many times over the years, a few examples here.
I’ve been by-passing the charging bulkhead connections since my time at the dealers way back when.
No reason you can’t run added loads (including EFI) and retain the original ammeter as...
I just wanted to reply and say, that in my case, someone who clearly admits that I know nothing about electronics other than shadetree mechanic, it was finally nice to find an actual diagram from Plymouth that documents how to do the bypass. There have been many debates back and forth with...
Exact method, what am I missing? The OP (cbarge), and most of the responding posts, are mostly describing/discussing the engine compartment charge circuit by-pass, in this case adding a 12ga wire run from the alternator output stud to the starter relay. While this may alleviate some battery...