Bulk head connector

[Nacho-RT74]

I must say HOWEVER… I have a engine bay pic from a member’s 74 car originally equipped with the rear glass electric grid defrost option (brand new release option for 74) which got a 60 amps alt as a mandatory part of the equipment (which gets the firewall path from factory) and shows BOTH batt paths (firewall and bulkhead) with BOTH fuse links.

He posted that pic around here once and I think couple more of boards. I saved it for future references

 

[Gold Rush]

I'm good. I just thought you were directing that post towards me and was confused since I don't have electric fans.

Don't know why I thought you had fans... The point Nacho usually tries to make and I agree with is this. Current loads should be sourced from the alternator not the battery. If they are connected to the battery side of the AMMETER then they will result in faults discharging condition.

I know there are situations where items require "CLEAN" power so the manufacture suggests connection to the battery. Keep that to a absolute minimum and expect the faults reading.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

If they are connected to the battery side of the AMMETER then they will result in faults discharging condition.

Don’t you mean a false charging indication?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

I must say HOWEVER… I have a engine bay pic from a member’s 74 car originally equipped with the rear glass electric grid defrost option (brand new release option for 74) which got a 60 amps alt as a mandatory part of the equipment (which gets the firewall path from factory) and shows BOTH batt paths (firewall and bulkhead) with BOTH fuse links.

He posted that pic around here once and I think couple more of boards. I saved it for future references

Do you know for a fact that the standard ammeter dash wire to the battery is connected the ammeter along with the fleet by-pass wire? The fleet by-pass also involves cutting off and tapping back the original dash harness ammeter leads, should only have the by-pass ammeter to battery run active. The factory would not parallel two active fusible links on the same circuit.

 

[kaj750]

Don't know why I thought you had fans... The point Nacho usually tries to make and I agree with is this. Current loads should be sourced from the alternator not the battery. If they are connected to the battery side of the AMMETER then they will result in faults discharging condition.

I know there are situations where items require "CLEAN" power so the manufacture suggests connection to the battery. Keep that to a absolute minimum and expect the faults reading.

Agreed. I HAD to run my EFI from the battery side per Holley's tech. But that's it. I wouldn't run anything else.
So would I basically/theoretically want to put a power distribution block on the wire I'm running directly from the alternator? If I were to add accessories like fans, fuel pump, etc.
I ask because my EFI has a power distribution module that wants to run off the battery. But not only does it supply power to the EFI unit, it also works like a relay system and deals power to the fuel pump. It would also direct power to accessories like fans, etc if you want them, using in the coolant temp sensor to working like a thermostat. That's cool, and all, but it means everything is running off the battery.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Agreed. I HAD to run my EFI from the battery side per Holley's tech. But that's it. I wouldn't run anything else.
So would I basically/theoretically want to put a power distribution block on the wire I'm running directly from the alternator? If I were to add accessories like fans, fuel pump, etc.
I ask because my EFI has a power distribution module that wants to run off the battery. But not only does it supply power to the EFI unit, it also works like a relay system and deals power to the fuel pump. It would also direct power to accessories like fans, etc if you want them, using in the coolant temp sensor to working like a thermostat. That's cool, and all, but it means everything is running off the battery.

You don’t absolutely have to run the Snipper directly connected to the battery. With some wiring upgrades you can run those loads on the alternator side of the ammeter where all loads belong if running an ammeter. Have been running a Snipper on one of my cars for years now correctly loaded-not directly connected to the battery, without issue.

 

[Gold Rush]

You don’t absolutely have to run the Snipper directly connected to the battery. With some wiring upgrades you can run those loads on the alternator side of the ammeter where all loads belong if running an ammeter. Have been running a Snipper on one of my cars for years now correctly loaded-not directly connected to the battery, without issue.

That is good to know. I've toyed with installing a SNIPER in my SE. Haven't quite convinced myself that is what I really want but still good to know I could run of the alternator feed.

Thanks for the info1

 

[Gold Rush]

Agreed. I HAD to run my EFI from the battery side per Holley's tech. But that's it. I wouldn't run anything else.
So would I basically/theoretically want to put a power distribution block on the wire I'm running directly from the alternator? If I were to add accessories like fans, fuel pump, etc.
I ask because my EFI has a power distribution module that wants to run off the battery. But not only does it supply power to the EFI unit, it also works like a relay system and deals power to the fuel pump. It would also direct power to accessories like fans, etc if you want them, using in the coolant temp sensor to working like a thermostat. That's cool, and all, but it means everything is running off the battery.

Funny you should mention that. I have a five output fuse block mounted on the firewall just to the left of the steering column. Tapped into the upgraded alternator feed line and use that to source "RUN B+". So far the only thing connected there is the electric fuel pump.

 

[Gold Rush]

Don’t you mean a false charging indication?

No, I said what I meant to. In this case, the excess load is fooling the ammeter into believing there is a unintentional current drain manifesting as a discharging condition.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

No, I said what I meant to. In this case, the excess load is fooling the ammeter into believing there is a unintentional current drain manifesting as a discharging condition.

Not following at all, “fooling the ammeter”?, “ faults discharging condition”?, please elaborate. Loads placed at the battery will cause current to flow through the ammeter from the alternator and register as false charging current while the charging system is functioning.

 

[Gold Rush]

Not following at all, “fooling the ammeter”?, “ faults discharging condition”?, please elaborate. Loads placed at the battery will cause current to flow through the ammeter from the alternator and register as false charging current while the charging system is functioning.

Under normal configuration you are absolutely correct. The reason I say discharging condition is because of that load causing the issue. Call it what you want. Reducing that accessory load on the battery line should have positive results.

 

[kaj750]

You don’t absolutely have to run the Snipper directly connected to the battery. With some wiring upgrades you can run those loads on the alternator side of the ammeter where all loads belong if running an ammeter. Have been running a Snipper on one of my cars for years now correctly loaded-not directly connected to the battery, without issue.

Well, I don't know where or how to re-wire the car to do that. I read a lot of "you can pull from the alternator side" comments, but that doesn't help me at all. In fact, it frustrates me because I'd really like to do that but don't know how lol
Until somebody writes a how-to, in plain/content English, for us "not in the know" folks, I'll pull from the battery, unfortunately. Believe me, I've tried. I have offered to throw money at many, many local classic car guys. Absolutely nobody will take me up on the offer and teach me how to do it.
Again, I SUCK at electrical work, particularly this car. Having 10 people telling me to take power from the alternator side just leaves me with more questions lol. But, I do appreciate response. Thank you!

No, I said what I meant to. In this case, the excess load is fooling the ammeter into believing there is a unintentional current drain manifesting as a discharging condition.

True. My ammeter is at a constant "+20" while driving.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Until somebody writes a how-to, in plain/content English, for us "not in the know" folks, I'll pull from the battery, unfortunately.

Did you watch the video and read through some of the posts on the original above pinned thread on this subject in this section? I described in the video and posted some detailed info/pictures on one way to accomplish this task.
Factory original Chrysler ammeter-based Charging System and additional loading. Load placement matters!

 

[Ron H]

frustrates me because I'd really like to do that but don't know how lol

As viewed in this thread, knowledgeable members have posted their own sketches being most helpful, as opposed to viewing say, a FSM wiring diagram. Still, I’ve had a bit of confusion here & there. I don’t know why it has been more helpful to me, but I’ve developed my own sketch using their sketches! Lol, all I can attribute this to is a ‘learning curve retention’ theory I had to study eons ago for some course-credit…offhand it goes something like this:

You retain a certain percentage of ‘learning-retention’ by hearing it, more by reading it, more by seeing it, more if it is a combination of those, and more yet, the most, by DOING it. Maybe this sounds goofy, BUT dang hey, this has been helpful to me, including noting the sequence of steps as I resketch.

For some projects I do, car related and with many others, I sketch it out in detail for my visual. Almost therapeutic for me before plunging into it. JMO.

 

[kaj750]

Did you watch the video and read through some of the posts on the original above pinned thread on this subject in this section? I described in the video and posted some detailed info/pictures on one way to accomplish this task.
Factory original Chrysler ammeter-based Charging System and additional loading. Load placement matters!

Yes. I have read multiple threads describing it in certain ways, along with all the posts arguing back and forth which is the right way to do it and which is not.
I may have seen a video, at this point I can't remember because the information is spread out into so many threads and websites.
I seen numerous diagrams which I think are lacking details that I need since I don't have common knowledge of the subject.
I have seen many, many people tell me to get power from the alternator side, but anytime I ask specifically where there are no replies.
I will check the link you posted, thanks!

As viewed in this thread, knowledgeable members have posted their own sketches being most helpful, as opposed to viewing say, a FSM wiring diagram. Still, I’ve had a bit of confusion here & there. I don’t know why it has been more helpful to me, but I’ve developed my own sketch using their sketches! Lol, all I can attribute this to is a ‘learning curve retention’ theory I had to study eons ago for some course-credit…offhand it goes something like this:

You retain a certain percentage of ‘learning-retention’ by hearing it, more by reading it, more by seeing it, more if it is a combination of those, and more yet, the most, by DOING it. Maybe this sounds goofy, BUT dang hey, this has been helpful to me, including noting the sequence of steps as I resketch.

For some projects I do, car related and with many others, I sketch it out in detail for my visual. Almost therapeutic for me before plunging into it. JMO.

All that is very true. I can do all the wiring and everything just fine, I just can't seem to figure out where this elusive "alternator side power source" is, specifically lol
No amount of drawing pictures for myself will lead me to this power source.
I feel like there's a hint that I'm missing so I can't figure it out for myself. Nobody wants to show me a picture or give me a specific spot. That's fine. I'll figure it out eventually.
If I'm just tapping into the main harness that comes off the alternator, that's easy enough.

 

[Gold Rush]

Yes. I have read multiple threads describing it in certain ways, along with all the posts arguing back and forth which is the right way to do it and which is not.
I may have seen a video, at this point I can't remember because the information is spread out into so many threads and websites.
I seen numerous diagrams which I think are lacking details that I need since I don't have common knowledge of the subject.
I have seen many, many people tell me to get power from the alternator side, but anytime I ask specifically where there are no replies.
I will check the link you posted, thanks!




All that is very true. I can do all the wiring and everything just fine, I just can't seem to figure out where this elusive "alternator side power source" is, specifically lol
No amount of drawing pictures for myself will lead me to this power source.
I feel like there's a hint that I'm missing so I can't figure it out for myself. Nobody wants to show me a picture or give me a specific spot. That's fine. I'll figure it out eventually.
If I'm just tapping into the main harness that comes off the alternator, that's easy enough

In essence that is what you need to do. In post #35 your diagram indicates that you have upgraded the alternator feed through the firewall and on to the ammeter. I would pick a convenient spot on that feed line after it passed through the firewall. Strip off half an inch of insulation then do a tight wrap with the wire going to the Sniper inline fuse. Solder that connection and wrap with friction tape and then a good quality vinyl tape. If your Sniper is happy with that power source; you are good to go. If not then going back to battery may be your only choice.

An afterthought. You might still use that tap-off location to power your fuel pump and other accessories via a fuse block as I mentioned earlier.

Good luck!! Let us know how that all works out.

 

[kaj750]

In essence that is what you need to do. In post #35 your diagram indicates that you have upgraded the alternator feed through the firewall and on to the ammeter. I would pick a convenient spot on that feed line after it passed through the firewall. Strip off half an inch of insulation then do a tight wrap with the wire going to the Sniper inline fuse. Solder that connection and wrap with friction tape and then a good quality vinyl tape. If your Sniper is happy with that power source; you are good to go. If not then going back to battery may be your only choice.

An afterthought. You might still use that tap-off location to power your fuel pump and other accessories via a fuse block as I mentioned earlier.

Good luck!! Let us know how that all works out.

For some reason, I understand your posts, just fine. haha. That is very well explained, thank you. The Holley instructions and tech advised against power from the alternator as it's "not a clean" source, but Like you said maybe it will be happy, maybe not. Can't hurt to try, though.
The power for my setup is going through their distribution block (I didn't want to use a bunch of relays, so figured this would be an "easy button"). So just run that wire you are describing to the power section on the block where I now have the battery. Easy enough to try.
I have to figure out a couple other mysteries with this thing... but then will do the re-wire and see what happens.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Do you know for a fact that the standard ammeter dash wire to the battery is connected the ammeter along with the fleet by-pass wire? The fleet by-pass also involves cutting off and tapping back the original dash harness ammeter leads, should only have the by-pass ammeter to battery run active. The factory would not parallel two active fusible links on the same circuit.

Sure I know two active fuse link shouldn’t be there and hence my later correction when I began that tipically thread from dodgecharger.com back in 2007.

There is a 73 diagram which also shows a diff bypass method. I have posted around that one too.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

There is a dozen of was to proceed with this. You can even use a firewall “double junction” blocks instead the grommet to run the alt side of the wiring ( or both ), and that will get you a power distribuiton point on halfway if you don’t want to use the alt stud on engine bay side or the amm stud on cab side to feed correctly everything.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I feel like there's a hint that I'm missing so I can't figure it out for myself. Nobody wants to show me a picture or give me a specific spot. That's fine. I'll figure it out eventually.
If I'm just tapping into the main harness that comes off the alternator, that's easy enough.

There is the basic info, then after that there are personal prefferences about how to do it.

The basic info already posted:
-bulkhead is the weak spot
-all added loads must be taken ANYWHERE in between the amm and the alt stud, both included.
-an alt able to feed all the car needs at iddle or the smaller speed as possible (since the factory alt IS NOT) is the best next step or at the same time to get the charging system RELAXED.

Now how to aboard the issue?
-parallel path to the existant one if still in working order
-completely despite the stock path and proceed with just a new path.
-modify somehow the existant path adding the new one.
Etc..

Now, if you NEED to get the exact instructions to make it it means maybe you are not understanding how it works the system LOL. LOT OFF PPL will get you its own personal point of view to aboard the issue (including the amm haters, most of them doesn’t want to understand how it works, and still making their job still wrong), but you need to take your own preferential option, according with your skills and setup.

EVEN FACTORY made it in a two or three diff ways to do it, and ONE OF THEM IS STILL KEEPING ALIVE the bulkhead path on the alt side LOL.

MYSELF I opted with the parallel path (now despiting the batt side stock path) for one main reason… I don’t want to modify the stock system or drill the firewall (using an already existant grommet) but just add the upgrade to an unmodified system as possible. I also like the disconect versatility, so I WILL USE (and I meant WILL, because my car is in pieces since 2013) the quick disconect plug still on the parallel path. But that’s my own PERSONAL choice.

Now if you are proceeding with a FULL custom job, then you will open the can of worms of the diff ways to make it. But need to understand how it works first