Bulk head connector

[Nacho-RT74]

this is the diff method I mentioned FACTORY USED TOO... ( I have found this mainly on 73 diagrams )

with this, the batt charge and discharge flow is running throught the bulkhead bypass and JUST the main splice load demands keeps beeing feeding throught the bulkhead. THIS WORKS TOO.

Why it works? because MOST of the problem about the bulkhead melts comes from the constant batt discharge and charge status swing ( due the lack of power from fact alt at iddle), not really by the regular car load demand. And the constant swinging batt charge/discharge status problem gets increased when EVERYBODY ALL ALONG THESE YEARS kept feeding added accs to the batt post... then BOOOOM.

 

[kaj750]

The basic info already posted:
-bulkhead is the weak spot <-This part I get.

-all added loads must be taken ANYWHERE in between the amm and the alt stud, both included. <- THIS is what I needed someone to say. Thank you. I'm told it's a good place, just not if I'm running any sensitive electronics. I'm fine with that.

-an alt able to feed all the car needs at iddle or the smaller speed as possible (since the factory alt IS NOT) is the best next step or at the same time to get the charging system RELAXED. <- Need to upgrade the ALT. Check. I was looking at a new one and there are so many options as far as internal/external regulator, single/double pole blah blah. I'll look to make sure I find one EXACTLY like what I have in the car, just more amps.

Now how to aboard the issue?
-parallel path to the existant one if still in working order <- This is what I have done now. It sounds like I need to remove my fusible link, since the OEM wire already has one. I'll do that ASAP.
-completely despite the stock path and proceed with just a new path.
-modify somehow the existant path adding the new one.
Etc..


MYSELF I opted with the parallel path (now despiting the batt side stock path) for one main reason… I don’t want to modify the stock system or drill the firewall (using an already existant grommet) but just add the upgrade to an unmodified system as possible. <- Same. I'll modify the car if I have to, but I'd LIKE to leave it as original as possible.

I also like the disconect versatility, so I WILL USE (and I meant WILL, because my car is in pieces since 2013) the quick disconect plug still on the parallel path. But that’s my own PERSONAL choice. <- Nice touch. I may do the same to simplify servicing.

Now if you are proceeding with a FULL custom job, then you will open the can of worms of the diff ways to make it. But need to understand how it works first <- no way. Too much for me and difficult to diagnose/service.

 

[kaj750]

this is the diff method I mentioned FACTORY USED TOO... ( I have found this mainly on 73 diagrams )

View attachment 1675971


with this, the batt charge and discharge flow is running throught the bulkhead bypass and JUST the main splice load demands keeps beeing feeding throught the bulkhead. THIS WORKS TOO.

Why it works? because MOST of the problem about the bulkhead melts comes from the constant batt discharge and charge status swing ( due the lack of power from fact alt at iddle), not really by the regular car load demand. And the constant swinging batt charge/discharge status problem gets increased when EVERYBODY ALL ALONG THESE YEARS kept feeding added accs to the batt post... then BOOOOM.

Is that diagram close enough to my '69 Charger that I can use it as reference? If so, if cutting wires to the harness on the dash side, where do they get power to everything after?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Now how to aboard the issue?
-parallel path to the existant one if still in working order <- This is what I have done now. It sounds like I need to remove my fusible link, since the OEM wire already has one. I'll do that ASAP.
-completely despite the stock path and proceed with just a new path.
-modify somehow the existant path adding the new one.
Etc..

Actually if you are making the bulkhead bypass, the one you need to remove is the original one and keep the NEW one coming along with the NEW path

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Is that diagram close enough to my '69 Charger that I can use it as reference? If so, if cutting wires to the harness on the dash side, where do they get power to everything after?

View attachment 1676245

No, on that diagram what is shown is the isolation of the stock ammeter wiring and running straight to the amm just the new paths.

Now, THIS setup shows a junction block on engine bay where the power is spliced to the main splice into the cab still throught the bulkhead (with also an extra fuse link). That’s the wire which keeps the power into the cab. THEN from same junction block the new wire to the amm, which will recharge the batt.

Its pretty much similar to the option I allways suggest, but I use the alt stud itself like the junction block, and keeping the stock black still attached to the amm. I like better because it gives me the chance to use 10 gauge on the parallel path working together to the existant 12 gauge instead use a single 8 gauge.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Also… if you have the patiente, or the car in pieces, take your time to check the ammeter conditions… studs tighteness into the ammeter internal shunt, isolation conditions… etc… many stuff could happened on 45-50 years. Several threads about the surprises you can find into the amm due abuse of the system.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

No, on that diagram what is shown is the isolation of the stock ammeter wiring and running straight to the amm just the new paths.

Now, THIS setup shows a junction block on engine bay where the power is spliced to the main splice into the cab still throught the bulkhead (with also an extra fuse link). That’s the wire which keeps the power into the cab. THEN from same junction block the new wire to the amm, which will recharge the batt.

Its pretty much similar to the option I allways suggest, but I use the alt stud itself like the junction block, and keeping the stock black still attached to the amm. I like better because it gives me the chance to use 10 gauge on the parallel path working together to the existant 12 gauge instead use a single 8 gauge.

Aside of course keep the main splice also with two 12 gauges legs for a better feed. The one coming from alt and the one coming from amm after run throught the new path.

Of course the original path still offers some resistance due the packard terminals nature (clean them and tighten them thought) which would make most of the load will come from the new path, but you have the “headroom” given by the original path once the new one gets close to its limits.

Anyway, with a better alt, even the new path will barelly get lot of loads, because battery will barelly get discharged.

A new better output alt is even better and healthier EVEN JUST KEEPING THE STOCK wiring, without any new thicker &/or parallel path. Because once you save the constant discharge status (which will take you to an also constant charge status) will reduce the constant high loads running throught the Charging network.

 

[kaj750]

Aside of course keep the main splice also with two 12 gauges legs for a better feed. The one coming from alt and the one coming from amm after run from the new path.

Of course the original path still offers some resistance due the packard terminals nature (clean them and tighten them thought) which would make most of the load will come from the new path, but you have the “headroom” given by the original path once the new one gets close to its limits.

Anyway, with a better alt, even the new path will barelly get lot of loads, because battery will barelly get discharged.

A new better output alt is even better and healthier EVEN JUST KEEPING THE STOCK wiring, without any new thicker &/or parallel path. Because once you save the constant discharge status (which will take you to an also constant charge status) will reduce the constant high loads running throught the Charging network.

New alternator. Got it, thank you.

Recommended amperage?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I allways say 45-50 iddle capacity charge as minimun, but more the better. Remember the alt will just put out what is requested. Still having a 500 amps alt, if the car/batt recharging request is just 50, the alt will put just those 50.

The new Performance alts available (powermaster, tuffstuff) are able to give that. Tipically any 95-100 amps they offer are able to give 60-65 amps at iddle. But of course those are into $180-250 rate.

But on the cheap side, the STOCK alts available from 80s Mopars are into 78-85 amps rate what with the small pulley they get installed are able to provide around 45 amps at iddle. This is the one I have on my car. They are into $40-70 rate depending if you get core or not to send.

These stock alts are the “revised version” of the first squarebacks dual field alts. They are a bit wider (carrying a wider stator too and case) which, depending on the engine mounting setup could require a bit of trim on rear spacer and couple of inches longer belt to sway the back of the alt out of the block area, because it meets with block, specially after the spacer trim. I had to make it on my 74 400 with A/C.

When I reassemble my car and money is enough will go with a 100 amps tuff stuff alt upgrade. These are the older squareback version, so no trim or belt change needed (althought first powermaster versions were based on the later squareback wider alts).

If your car is single field alt setup, need to consider tipically all of these performance alts are squareback dual field. Just will need to ground one of the brushes. Some vendors already send to you a grounded brush I guess if requested or noted the year per your order form, but if not, is a pretty much easy job to make. Has been already talked about around here on several threads. Several options to ground a brush.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

BTW… the alt doesn’t need to be “one wire” to get better performance. Some ppl thinks a “one wire” alt gets better output, which is not necessarily true. The one wire alt purpose is actually for a cleaner installation getting the regulator internally installed. My personal preference is the stock system with external regulator. If reg fails makes an easier service and even a easier fix on the road with just a jumper wire for a full fielding. Of course just TEMPORALLY to save the emergency to get up to a shop or home.