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Old thread, as for the mounting issue, you are missing the rubber grommet that should be under that screw head. Possibly the rubber pad that goes between the speedo and the cluster frame.

There is a pinned thread above here in this Electrical section with links to those videos.

Check for voltage drop between the battery on ignition 1 at the regulator plug while running.

ACC -- Steering Wheel Lock -- Off -- Run -- Start.

I have that as; "It is no longer the original wiring harness, there is no longer a bulkhead connector. Relays for the headlights are also installed." Reverse the primary connections at the two relays then.

Assuming the wiring is somewhat stock, I would start at the forward light harness bulkhead connector. Verify the violet wire (low beam) is in the #15 cavity and that the red wire (high beam) is in the #14 cavity. If there are signs of modifications having taken place, look for added miss-wired...

Other than the mentioned cooling fans, I don’t see a lot of heavy loads planned or a need for 100 amps at idle in the OP’s description. The Tuff Stuff 130 is as high a capacity as you can get with an aftermarket stock appearing/direct fit alternator. As for the regulator, keyword is recommend...

Try this, the original scan is limited in detail. All the '71-72 engineering diagrams have since been published in book form. Well worth it to have a copy.

I prefer the Tuff Stuff 130amp alt myself. Dual isolated field, with the external ’70 and later regulator. Technically, the alternator output is regulated using the reference voltage on the ignition 1 circuit (key run) in the engine harness, not directly connected to the battery as original...

You’re welcome. As long as you rework the charge/load path wiring in the M&H reproductions, you should be able to accomplish what you want. Have modified M&H and original harnesses and many times. If you found the video elsewhere, it is linked here as well in a couple of threads, one being...

Will need one each, 2 total, yes same flasher works for both applications.

I run these on my all LED installs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031GYS6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No flashers in the fuse block, that's the horn relay/key buzzer. Turn signal flasher is clipped to the ashtray frame, the 4-way flasher is clipped to the brake pedal support. Can’t run the original thermal flashers with all LEDs, need an electronic version, not load dependent.

4 indicator lights, 2 turn, high beam, brake. So 9 for the illumination back lighting

13 total counting indicator lights and A/C control lighting. Suggest matching colors for the indicator lights (ie, green leds for the turn signals). For the illumination lights, be sure they are listed as dimmable. Dimmable-yes BA9s LED Bulb - 1 LED - BA9s Bulb

The Rallye cluster uses #57 bulbs or an led using a BA9s base. BA9s LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Tower - BA9s Bulb

Agreed, if no immediate plans to restore/replace the factory cluster/ammeter, at a minimum connect the two ammeter wires together right away, insolate appropriately.

Yikes, that’s a problem. Pretty clear that one stud has suffered some heat damage previously, the end of that outer stock insulator is missing, likely the inner one is damaged as well. I would plan to pull the ammeter, solder the stud heads to the bus, replace both insulators.

With good/tight ammeter connections there should be very little to no voltage drop across the ammeter terminals. Verify by connecting your VOM leads directly at the terminals, one on each side. If confirmed, check that the terminal nuts are tight, and the insulators are undamaged. Abused or...

as well as the ignition switch, headlight switch, ammeter, and quite a bit of 12ga dash harness wiring that depend on that fusible link for protection will now be exposed to the full 150-200 amps of battery potential via that "shunt wire" by-pass, not a bet I'm willing to take.