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What was your backspacing? Maybe that was the culprit.

Wow, I am surprised by that. I know others have definitely fit 275's and 255's were supposed to be the safe side. Anyone else want to add what you are running for your 66/67?

Looking to finally upgrade the hodge podge wheels on my project car. Can a few people confirm what size they are running on their 66 Coronet's or other B-body that we know has the same clearances? Someone posted these sizes a while back. Is this the sweet spot for my car? Front - 15x7 4.25 BS...

Where did you buy the good ones? My drum locks up on me but probably more due to what pnora is talking about since it is only the driver side rear.

I still feel like it would be helpful info at least so people don’t keep asking the same question. If people knew what options had been done on their car it may help a few people, but I guess this won’t be happening… haha

Hopefully this catches on and we can sticky this or something. Seems like there is so much info and many opinions out there on what fits on our cars. How about we just make a master list of what everyone actually has on their cars. If you are up for it respond to the thread with the info below...

How do I know if I have a suregrip again? Does that have to do with how the rear wheels spin? Both of mine spin together when you rotate one side by hand.

Looking to check and replace the gear oil in my rear end. Looking at the manual looks like I just need to take out the square plug and pump it out. Any tips on removing that plug? Only thing I had that would fit on it were some channel locks and it does not seem to budge. Any recommended tools...

So, you are saying I should run another ground from the negative battery terminal all the way up to block or radiator support? Something like a #12 or #14? Wouldn't the heat be the same regardless of the battery location?

By rubber boot, do you mean the heat shrink that usually comes with these connectors or is there something else?

Is that common or am I getting too much current to the starter for some reason?

took some pictures of the setup. Cable connected to the starter does not look good. So much for the heat shield I had over it. Any other issues you see? I think this was a kit from summit, Need to get some new connectors. Does this seem like #4 gauge?

How do I uncover where the issue is stemming from or where should I start?

LOL feel like an idiot. Car was in reverse! Kids were playing around in the car and must have moved it into reverse. Thank you! On another note. I am getting some machine gun fire from the starter when I first start it up. I think I’m on my third starter over the last 10 years. Project car so...

Yeah, was just working a couple weeks ago. Just changed out the water pump and went to start it up and got nothing.

Putting the voltmeter straight on the battery terminals I appear to have 12.8 volts.

So, even weirder. Just tried the headlights and everything turns on fine. Brake lights, blinkers, etc. No cabin light still and no crank. Is it something with my ignition?

Hmm right now I have a positive cable running from the starter all the way back along with probably a #12 cable running from ignition. Negative is grounded on the frame in the trunk. It was working without any issues so setup can’t be all wrong. I am thinking I just have to have a loose...

How much power should there be? 12V?

What do you mean by the engine being grounded? Where is the relay and what am I looking for? Sorry for all the newbie questions. Definitely not an expert on electrical stuff.