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This is the best i can do. I would say yours is correct. Leave it alone.

Someone probably will come up with what the factory did. I thought it was Organisol or something. However, I used a textured satin black on mine. Definitely not gloss or flat.

I must have one of those original 68 switches you referred to. I tied ignition 1 & 2 together and it worked about 2 out of 3 times. I ended up buying a push button switch from Oreillys back in 2015 and mounted it on the bottom lip of the dash under the ignition key. It is hidden but easily...

It is a spendy hobby for sure. I paid too much for my Basket case Charger back in 2014 but I didn't build it with the intention of ever recouping my money. Am I sorry yet? Not for a second. These upgrades are always way more expensive than what you would think or budget for. Long gone are the...

My 68 Charger 383 auto A/C car had undercoating but no hood pad. Still don't. No idea what the criteria would have been.

I have the 545RFE behind the 6.1 in my Charger. As far as I remember, it doesn't need a module like the NAG1. It has been 10 years since I built mine so could be wrong. 545RFE uses an electronic signal for the speedo so you would need to upgrade your speedo for that or a GPS one. I would...

The hose and manifold with the red duct tape on it came off of my 68 Charger. The other hose is similar. I have no use for either of them. A couple of pics of my engine compartment when I got it. I sold the engine and compressor. PM me if interested.

My 65 Sport Fury leaked at the same place many years ago and when I dropped the pan to change the filter and fluid, I cleaned the cable connector with brake cleaner and smeared on some JB weld or two part Epoxy glue around it. (don't remember for sure) That was back in the late 1980's. Hasn't...

Formed pad with Metal clips.

I would not add it to a non A/C car but since my Charger came with it, I rebuilt the box and upgraded the engine compartment. It has been working perfectly since 2015 and I am glad to have it when I want it. My car was a high dollar build so a few hundred dollars extra seems to be worth it. On...

I don't assume anything. I just do it because that is the method I learned from the FSM. I'm sure there are a dozen methods that will get the same result even if some take a few attempts. I too use the vacuum bleeder for each wheel cylinder mostly because my wife is busy doing her own thing and...

Me Too.

If you decide to not make a spacer and want to replace it, I have a couple of them. PM me if interested.

I might have tried that too if it had been around in 2015 when I built mine. I have the factory A/C box which allows no room for anything other than the factory pedal. However, I like the factory pedal with the bell crank assembly under the hood. That pedal is butt ugly IMO but you gotta do what...

Penta star on the left side

A real Bee would have had the front sway bar. Here is a pic of my 69 when it was new. So was the brownie camera that took the grainy pic back in my trailer trash days when it was 4 on the floor and a 5th under the seat.

I went down that same rabbit hole as you. I was told by Chris at Hotwire that the stock ignitions had a break in continuity between start and run that the Hemi didn't like and that I needed to add the push button. I pulled my ignition switch and tied the start and run positions together thinking...

My 78 440 didn't use that tensioner pulley either. Only had the alternator for adjuster.

I was thinking an air hammer with a punch bit but maybe not enough room for that either.

I have two vehicles with remote start. Neither one will start on their own without a signal from the remote controller. They will only run for 15 minutes before shutting down and will not restart until the get another signal.