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I have 3 Edelbrocks, and they all want to idle a little higher than where they are set after driving around for a while, no matter what. I don't use the choke and have it wired open, 4 speed so no extra automatic stuff, no vacuum advance. I think that's just how they are.

I just took a 3257 off my 68 RR. I bought from Chief Auto Parts 34 years ago, so it served me well. There were hammer marks on the cover, but I never hammered it. Whoever had that core before me did. I replaced it with a reman 3258, which so far works most of the time. lol 3257 = 1.1 kw...

I like reading the VOAs (virgin oil analysis) from Blackstone on Bob-is-the-oil-guy.

From Googly, Don Duff Rebuilding in Livionia MI, est 1961. I don't think they are in business any more, and are probably playing golf in Florida now.

That's exactly what it was for me.

I just use the traditional lazy-lobe factory pattern cam and valve train. I installed the cam in a parking lot around 1990, and it lives to this day. I didn't know anything then and still don't. I just assumed the people that designed this stuff knew what they were doing and copied them.

I switch off between Edelbrock 1405 (straight booster) and 1905 (**** booster). The 1905 is smoother right at tip-in, and other than that, not a dramatic difference between them. I like both. Have used the 1405 since forever, and got the 1905 out of curiosity.

I wanted Bassett or Aero wheels at one time, but I still have LH threads. Could not find 45 degree LH lug nuts, so I used Cragar steel wheels. They are heavy but served me well.

Out. Don't be boring.

Me too. If I ever do another it will half groove.

It's boring without headers.

Same.

I didn't see a reproduction on Brewers, put Passon has originals (not giving them away though).

I want one of those, life-size. People are always blocking my mailbox.

It's 10 degrees F here in Jesus Land. We think that's cold and the wind always adds to it. I drove my beat up old Road Runner. It has an Eddie 1405 with the choke wired open, but it still has iron heads with crossover for heated intake manifold. It was a little temperamental at first, but did...

That's amazing.

I did that very thing for my 68 RR more than 30 years ago; Competition Plus shifter, factory linkage. It's like that to this day. Drilled a hole in the original stick so it would bolt in. I wouldn't tell anyone else to do that, but it was just a beat up old hot rod then and I just wanted to...

Dorman 13976 was too small. NAPA BK 7302412 worked for me, otherwise I would go see Rick Ehrenberg, Mega Parts or Year One.

Thank you that was helpful to me. I last went through this last century, and the cap I tricked up back then finally fell off. NAPA had BK 7302412 today and it worked. I had to tap it on, so it should stay there for a while. This is for 1968 Plymouth RR.

I use the dum Edelbrock 1405 600 with the choke wired open. I have to rebuild it every 10 years or so. I tried the 750 one time and took it off.