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Call them.

I was pretty sure I saw a shim on the backside of the bearing but maybe was wrong. The nut was tight. It had the original factory leather seal so I doubt it had ever been off before.

Just curious if all of your TQ cores have brass floats.

Do you know what the torque was before on the nut? If it came apart and went back exactly the same as far as the pinion depth shims are concerned, the only thing I can think is maybe you are torqueing it down tighter than it was before. A lot of times when you first torque them it will feel...

Thanks very much! I'm going to order one now.

That was my first thought too but I searched the small area and never found another shim. I bet your are correct though. Guess I better call Cass and order another pinion seal. It is coming apart again. Thanks for the reassurance.

The stock pickup is designed to sit tightly on the bottom of the pan.

Definitely time to learn. If I can get time at home to do it. Lol few years of work left though before I can retire and really go at hobby stuff. Thanks again I appreciate it. I

The wording you used suggests the shim was on the outside of the bearing. The shim needs to be on the inside of the bearing. Perhaps, the nut was not fully tightened by the previous installer.

There is no "use pan only" or "always use paper gaskets". It all depends on the geometry. If all fits with just the pan, ( as factory new ) just coat with Indian Head, and you're done. If there's been any machine work, paper gaskets, either one or both, may be necessary. Trial fit. Use less...

The pinion preload shims set right behind the front pinion bearing on the pinion shaft. My bet is you lost one. They can stick to the bearing when it's removed. Doug

So, looking at the factory options of my 74 RR/Satellite, it does not appear a tilt column was an option. My fat *** and short legs are a problem in this car as when I adjust the seat far enough forward to reach the pedals, my fat beer gut gets in the way of the steering wheel. So I am...

As I said, some people you can tell are just a**holes and some are just busy with their head flying in all directions. It doesn't take long to determine the difference. One person running around or one standing with his arms crossed watching you come in like you have herpes. I'm no better than...

yea, i messed up and passed up on a beautiful one.

Is there a reason for an oyster type oil pick up opening as apposed to a boxed opening like the one below in the second image? It seems the stock oyster type has very small reservoir provisions to hold oil? Am I correct? Does the shape depend on the types of baffles/trap doors that the oil pan...

Been awhile since I last rebuilt a T-Q, but good points in these posts. I'd be sure the body is not warped or cracked first.

Not mine... but willing to bet they are some sort of drag radial, M/T or Hoosier. 295/55 is almost exactly the same as a 10.5x28 drag slick.

Take a look, if it doesn't have any kinks I might be willing to give it a go?

I have to disagree with the leather pump. Especially when you have to use ethanol laced gas. I am able to buy the premium without ethanol but a lot of areas cannot. I had the leather pump in my ABF carb and made the mistake of filling the tank with the 10% junk. I didn't even make it home before...