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I hadn’t really thought about it in a while but back in 70 a friend helped me do a cam swap in my 64 Sport Fury in the dormitory parking lot. When done we simply fired it up and drove. Same when I swapped a Ram Air III cam into my 75 Trans Am a few years later. Just fired it up a drove...

I suspect the engine/cam got the same attention to recommended break-in procedures that the brakes and clutch manufacturers also recommend for their products - NOT! I wonder how many clutches got a good burn in being loaded on the upper deck of truck transports.

Stripped anodizing off a spare 66 tail pane that I’m going to finish out for my Satellite. Used lye pellets which is the best approach I’ve found. It’s in there somewhere. Forgot to strip some paint remnants out of the letters first. Lye won’t eat off paint. Now on to polishing.

No, that is a shifter travel limiter bolt. They works on 3rd and 4th gear to prevent over travel on a hard 3rd or 4th gear shift to avoid unnecessary pressure on the shift fork and slider assembly. They would not have any effect on the problem you are describing which sounds like the shifter...

It’s gone up to something like $10.65 now.

Well, that answers that. Whether a factory option or Mopars dealer accessory, apparently they were available that early.

Are yours metal or plastic? A lot of that type stuff - door edge guards, body side moldings and mud flaps - started becoming popular accessories in the early 70s. I ordered a new 75 T/A back then and spec’d body side moldings. I removed them years later and found one side had been installed...

I agree. The backfiring sounds like a lean condition. I would try opening the idle screws up 1/2 turn and if that seems to help any in the least, then I would try increasing the primary jets 2 sizes, like 70 to 72 for example.

I’ve done this on 66/67 Plymouth clusters but I can’t recall the details. I think I secured the ground lead to a screw on the cast speedometer housing.

I missed the hood at first pass. That’s pretty bad. I think that, combined with the green interior accents and painting door latches etc, would pretty much convince me to give it a pass altogether. Whoever put the car together had some strange detailing ideas and wasn’t too concerned about...

If the engine turns freely or better yet can be started and run, I would say not crazy at all. The trim, if in decent shape and useable or at least restorable helps a lot for me. My 67 and 66 Plymouths have tons of dollars in restored trim and some replacement trim.

Well, I wouldn’t pay $64k for it. Painted door latches and the green interior trim are turn-offs for me but not difficult to remedy. It would help to see the engine compartment and chassis shape. I don’t really know the market for 68 on b-bodies but I’ll throw out that dependent on the...

Yes, lack of rust is great. But trim and parts for 66/67 are still pretty expensive and hard to find. I might go a little higher than Jerry, but not much.

Seems to have a split personality as a 69 or a 70. It can be what it wants to be. They didn’t waste any time on disassembly or masking tape for the paint job.

Pretty nice looking on top. Hope they don’t lose the plastic plug from the door laying in the doors threshold.

Still one of the best car chase scenes ever filmed. Gives me chills when that Charger explodes into action at the red light. I have DVDs of Bullit, Two Lane Blacktop and Ford versus Ferrari. All good car movies.

Woodruff restorations does a nice job of restorations. They are listed in our vendors forums. The only caveat is I would check what jets and rods he puts back in the carb. The carb for my 67 GTX was beautiful when returned but had the craziest collection of jets and rods inside it. I have no...

I grew up in Kansas in the 50s and 60s and tornadoes (tornado alley) were really common. The nice thing out in the Great Bend and Wichita areas, they didn’t sneak up on you at least in daytime. You could see them coming from way off. But I’ve now spent almost 50 years in Arkansas and I...

I would like to see a couple chassis photos.

Looks like I should have only measured the threaded portion of the bolts which makes them 3-5/8” bolts. That seems to be standard length. Don’t know where the shorty bolts came from.