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I've been running solid engine mounts with poly transmission mount for the last 3 years without any problems.

I haven't used Eastwood Platinium, but I have used tons of there products and have found that Eastwood is generally decently priced for good/great quality.

The housing bore maybe machined a little tight, why not hone out the new bushing a little before you install it?

You need to verify that the kick down lever on the trans is being pushed all the way back, and the rod isn't bent and hitting on something.

Did you double check your spam folder?

Hey Sonny does your right side exhaust manifold still have the heat crossover valve in it? Maybe it isn't opening up all the way, and restricting your exhaust flow.

Hey bad88ttop Mine was also pulling to the right/passenger side. With the front tires off the ground, and engine running the tires would slowly turn to the right. I had to loosen and push the housing to the left/drivers side.

Well I don't know how much it would cost, the shop I work at isn't an automotive type shop, more " Tool and Die ". I fitted the caps and bored them a little undersize on the Boring Mill and paid to have it line honed.

I used the cross bolt main caps, and I really like them. I will use them again on my next build. But... I bought mine from 440Source, not bad mouthing the company as whole, but the machining on the caps was very sub-par. Luckily I'm a machinist and I could requalify the surfaces to make them...

As long as you're not in a hurry, you could fill the seems with a little RTV, smear flat, and let it cure. That way it doesn't adhere to the windage tray, and it could be reused if need be.

Yeah, I used the Summit gasket/windage tray unit. I wasn't sure about using sealer either, I read a few reviews of guys getting good results without sealers. I just couldn't do it though, I had to use a little. I used it at the timing cover and rear seal holder seams. I was taking my motor to a...

72RoadrunnerGTX Thank you for the info. Now the battery isolator must just split the current from the alternator? The primary side voltage regulator is controlling the charging rate. So if the secondary battery is being discharged at a higher rate the it could possibly get undercharged. Correct?

Now I have never used ( yet ) a battery isolator, But it looks like they will charge the secondary battery, and keep the primary battery from discharging. So if the primary battery doesn't get discharged, even with the engine off and at max volume then the ammeter shouldn't show a discharge.

Well im not sure. If I run a second battery, with a battery isolator would i still need a capacitor? Also, if I ran a second battery then it shouldn't affect the ammeter. Correct?

LOL

Battery isolator... good idea!

Yes, 4 gauge wiring recommended with 80 amp fuse. Maybe it would be better to run a second battery with a separate charge wire from the alternator?

Right... but what im asking is With the engine off and the amplifier on, and in a discharge state, won't the high amp draw from the amplifier be too much and blow the 16 gauge fusible link ?

If the amp was hooked up on alternator side of amp. gauge while the engine was running it would be fine, but if the amplifier was on but the engine wasn't running then the power draw would go thru the amp gauge and thru the wire from the amp gauge to batt. Not saying that one would want to run...

So...this makes sense, and I can agree with all this. Using a modified wiring set up with parallel wiring, retaining the amp meter, where would someone install a large audio amplifier power lead too?