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Working through this on my 68' Coronet this weekend. Adding this hoping it will help others. Thanks for the previous threads. One of the hardest parts to see is my image 8292 because I have my window glass installed. The picture 8292 may be slightly turned as I had to get my phone camera in a...

Working through this on my 68' Coronet this weekend. Adding this hoping it will help others. Thanks for the previous threads. One of the hardest parts to see is my image 8292 becuase I have my window glass installed. The picture 8292 may be slightly turned as I had to get my phone camera in a...

The purpose of the post is not to "bitch about the littlest thing", but to help people who have or will in the future buy these re-pop locks that are not made to original size. I am most grateful that there are parts and companies making these. I'm not as thrilled that I spent my money on...

Classic Industries wrote me back and said, " Good Afternoon Mark, We have seen some cars that have needed the MD101 (ferrules) to be purchased because theirs is (a) small(er) ferrule then the MD700 (lock knob can fit into). We believe it might be different factories or times of the year (that...

I wonder if I'll have to buy their reproduction door, and reproduction hinges to go with their reproduction ferrule, so that their reproduction plastic lock knob fits. Geeesh. Thanks tons for the reply.

I should correctly answer your question. I did not buy the reproduction ferrule. I have the cars original ferrule and lock knobs.

I have the ferrules installed. The knob is too large (wide) as per the picture and absolutely will not fit down (into) the ferrule

MD101 Ferrules.

Purchased reproduction door lock knobs from OER through Classic Industries. Original on right and the reproduction on left. Too big on the outer diameter to fit down (through) the ferrule hole. Product number MD700 for 64-74 Mopar A & B-body. I wish they wouldn't even sell them if they can't...

Question please. How can you determine if the time delay unit is working? I have a 68' Coronet 440. Does it make any sound(s)? Is it by function or lack of function that you can determine if the unit is working or not? Or both? Trying to figure out if mine is working. The A/C is not connected...

It's almost like this was designed wrong or something was missed in design. I say that because the electrical wiring and vacuum wiring have to cross over one another. It would actually be cleaner IF it would work upside down because then the vacuum lines would go right cleanly to the passenger...

Monroegtx, I believe I owe you a huge thanks! I ended up looking through your photos in your "garage". I was saying previously that all my switches at the back of the a/c heat control panel are wired correctly. I had been saying that I believe that all my vacuum lines are correctly connected to...

Also, incase anyone chases down this link months or years from now, here's a good point for available reference materials http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=446

Amazing thread, thanks tons! Everything I can see in all those awesome photos confirms the "red to rod side" theory supported in the video and "white to 'pot'/top side". The white is opening the system and the red is closing the system if I'm understanding what I've discovered.

Thanks Mopar3B. That would make sense to me so it's nice to get the confirmation.

Thanks Mopar 3B and Jim for replies. I've checked the wiring harness from the controls and all is perfect. My vacuum tube assembly is numbered correctly (see photo), but I am still struggling to understand which decision to make. It has to be one or the other. If I follow the diagram ( see post...

Hi Richard, I had a tricky question about figure 1 (attachment 497108) vacuum line routing that I'm also working through on my 68' Coronet. Vacuum lines 3,4 and 7 are white/black, while lines 1,2 and 5 are red/black. Line 6 is the primary vacuum line connected to manifold vacuum which I'll state...