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I just use the traditional lazy-lobe factory pattern cam and valve train. I installed the cam in a parking lot around 1990, and it lives to this day.
I didn't know anything then and still don't. I just assumed the people that designed this stuff knew what they were doing and copied them.
I switch off between Edelbrock 1405 (straight booster) and 1905 (**** booster).
The 1905 is smoother right at tip-in, and other than that, not a dramatic difference between them. I like both. Have used the 1405 since forever, and got the 1905 out of curiosity.
I wanted Bassett or Aero wheels at one time, but I still have LH threads. Could not find 45 degree LH lug nuts, so I used Cragar steel wheels. They are heavy but served me well.
It's 10 degrees F here in Jesus Land. We think that's cold and the wind always adds to it. I drove my beat up old Road Runner. It has an Eddie 1405 with the choke wired open, but it still has iron heads with crossover for heated intake manifold. It was a little temperamental at first, but did...
I did that very thing for my 68 RR more than 30 years ago; Competition Plus shifter, factory linkage. It's like that to this day. Drilled a hole in the original stick so it would bolt in. I wouldn't tell anyone else to do that, but it was just a beat up old hot rod then and I just wanted to...
Thank you that was helpful to me. I last went through this last century, and the cap I tricked up back then finally fell off. NAPA had BK 7302412 today and it worked. I had to tap it on, so it should stay there for a while. This is for 1968 Plymouth RR.
I think it's been measured around 213/[email protected] by a few people. Speed Pro CS-661, Elgin E-1094-P, Clevite 229-2323, Melling SPD31, SUM-6420, etc. I should quit being lazy and go measure it myself.