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There is really no hype or snake oil with aluminum radiators. Every modern car or truck runs an aluminum radiator; from a Kia Sorento to a RAM 5500. I noticed on the OE radiator I pulled out of my W200 last weekend (50K original replaced with aluminum), that the structure surrounding the...

To cure vapor lock, make sure you have a vapor return line. This is the fuel filter you would want to run, post-fuel pump: WIX 33040 Also, a heat shield is mandatory: Order Products It would also help to insulate the fuel line, leading up the the carburetor from the fuel pump. You can tap...

It's very easy with an AFR gauge to figure out what's happening. I'd venture to say it's running very lean at idle. Slightly richen up the idle circuit and see if that clears up your cold start issues. On a Holley, I know it would be a combination of pump-shot (accelerator pump discharge...

Fuel wasn't absolute trash, and neither was the traffic horrendous. Fuel percolation is very real with E10 blends, and there is a reason very few if any carbureted vehicles are on the highway anymore, because owners don't understand how to make them reliable. There is also this idea that cars...

You're correct, I've ran several carb hats, from the extreme velocity to the spectre, typically, you want the largest spacer you can between the carb hat and the throttle body or carburetor to straighten out airflow. Never run the divider, they can cause issues with fuel distribution. This hat...

100% correct. Gale Banks has ran similar tests. The OEM snorkel intake assembly on this truck was pulling in superheated air, directly from the radiator. I went out with a temp gun last night, the top of the hood was 20° hotter where the OEM breather assembly was. Inlet temps are 25-30°...

Quick update, worked perfectly using a 1.5" aluminum spacer and a few makeshift brackets to the inner fender. Checked for air leaks with carb cleaner, none. Even has a fitting in the air hat for the factory PCV. Removed the inner divider in the TBI air hat, that's it. Not the prettiest...

It's a big case of amperage. I can tell you, most 'effective' fans are going to draw somewhere in the neighborhood of 30 - 40 amps continuous and up to 65-amps starting. Sort of a 'red flag' when you don't see detailed specs shown on a product page. I'd look into an OEM fan, something like...

Also, failed to mention. Make sure the mechanical fuel pump you purchase, has true 3/8 inlet & outlet ports. For my 470", I found an obscure, NOS 1968-1969 Chevrolet Corvette fuel filter with the vapor return line. Filter Part # GF-432 / GM part # 5651480. Went through a lot of trouble as this...

3/8 feed and 5/16 return. May as well upgrade, no reason not to if you're replacing fuel lines.

This one has a stud, no clamp. It's interesting for sure, most people go the other way, which to me, doesn't make a lot of sense. Large round, open air filter element, under a hood, with an engine that's now ingesting 30-50* hotter IATs than ambient. Take out a temp gun, I believe many people...

Recently purchased an entire air-intake assembly off a 5.2 Magnum. Has anyone run these throttle body hats on a carburetor? I've seen it done plenty of times in the reverse (carb air cleaner assembly on Magnum throttle body). I know fuel distribution can be an issue due to air turbulence...

I spent 8-months with WTB ads (everywhere) looking for a tailgate for my 77' Dodge W200. They made millions of these trucks, yet somehow, no one reproduces a tailgate or grill, the least likely items to have survived decades of abuse & theft. Now, take this, and start to think about the trim...

Fully, CNC ported cylinder head, flowing north of 320cfm @ .600 lift. Big power is easy, tons of potential, and with power gains even at lower lifts. Comparatively, a cylinder head like the Performer RPM is flowing 280 - 290 CFM @ .600 lift, and we can expect an untouched stealth to be 20-30...

With the Sniper, you have an AFR reading and can datalog exactly what's happening during this event timeline. The best tuning tool you can purchase right now is an AFR gauge setup. As another member mentioned, on a carbureted application you would likely increase the 'pump shot' with a larger...

Great power, good combination of parts.

Street driven, '800 - 900' HP BBM, and all this power below 6,000 RPM? Won't likely be on the street very long at that power level (12 - 14 PSI), but yes, the 400-blocks offer a great base for a max-effort build. My friend runs one in a dart, has had great luck with a 451" turbo setup. Then...

Well, there is something definitely off with the combination (which to me, isn't the camshaft), as my 318 LA engine in the W200 gets on average around 10 MPG with standard 87-octane. It's built like a brick, and is full-time 4WD with 33" tires. It's also tuned near perfectly in regards to...

I would change the squirter, two to three sizes larger (try a 35). That will clear the initial hesitation or lean spike. If the carburetor is tuned well, other than the initial hit, why make any other changes? Takes all of five minutes.

This is exactly what to do in order to solve vapor lock. Even on my 470" low-deck, the fuel would start boiling, not in the bowls, but from the (new) mechanical fuel pump. That short time period in the fuel pump, caused vapor lock issues. I now run a carburetor heat shield, and a vapor return...