CarKnockerJim
Well-Known Member
Which wire at the ballast resistor is 12v keyed? I am doing an HEI coversion for my son and would like to keep it simple.
12v keyed wire
- Thread starter CarKnockerJim
- Start date
A383Wing
Well-Known Member
pull both wires off resistor, then turn key on, then use test light to see which one is power. Should be the pair of wires that plug onto resistor, one of the 2 wires is brown if I remember
Year ?
single ( or jumped if dual ballast ) blue wire, at ballast.
To keep power at cranking, splice blue wire from one side and brown wire from the other side wires together. That will eliminate the ballast for the HEI system.
The need to splice both is because on cranking moment the brown wire is what supplies the direct 12 volts to the coil bypassing the ballast for a while the blue wire is cut at ign switch, then on RUN, is the blue wire on the other side which feeds the coil going throught the ballast first.
So if you use just the blue wire coming from ing switch, when cranking you won't have power for ignition.
My question about the year is because when electronic regulator was equipped on cars ( between 69 and 70 ), the coil wire become on brown from the previous years when it was blue, like the one used to label the RUN circuit. So in Mech reg systems, ballast gets two blue wires one at each sides of ballast ( one from ign, the other one to the coil ), but one of them got one brown spliced in ( the one what links the cranking moment with the coil ). Then in elec reg systems, one side of the ballast gets TWO brown wires spliced into one side of ballast ( one for the coil and the other one what feeds when cranking )and the other side jus the blue ( from ing in RUN )
single ( or jumped if dual ballast ) blue wire, at ballast.
To keep power at cranking, splice blue wire from one side and brown wire from the other side wires together. That will eliminate the ballast for the HEI system.
The need to splice both is because on cranking moment the brown wire is what supplies the direct 12 volts to the coil bypassing the ballast for a while the blue wire is cut at ign switch, then on RUN, is the blue wire on the other side which feeds the coil going throught the ballast first.
So if you use just the blue wire coming from ing switch, when cranking you won't have power for ignition.
My question about the year is because when electronic regulator was equipped on cars ( between 69 and 70 ), the coil wire become on brown from the previous years when it was blue, like the one used to label the RUN circuit. So in Mech reg systems, ballast gets two blue wires one at each sides of ballast ( one from ign, the other one to the coil ), but one of them got one brown spliced in ( the one what links the cranking moment with the coil ). Then in elec reg systems, one side of the ballast gets TWO brown wires spliced into one side of ballast ( one for the coil and the other one what feeds when cranking )and the other side jus the blue ( from ing in RUN )
CarKnockerJim
Well-Known Member
Its a 1977 bought from a member on here....we are running a pro comp small cap HEI with external coil....and using a 1-wire alternator to help bypass some electrical gremlins the car HAD....so you are saying the blue wire from one side and the brown from the other?? Do you know of any good wiring diagrams that would break it down for me??
no diagrams handy, but easy.
which car is ?
I can't recall exactly if 77s were on this way since lates 70s mopars got modifications on wiring, but you can find this:
if you cut the ballast resisitor plugs, will notice, one brown and one blue wire coming from firewall plug ( inside the cab, ign switch ). These are ign 1 and ign 2, then one brown and one green traced red wire going to the engine side wich are one ECU pin and coil wire... despite those... splice together the first ones and attach there the power to the HEI
OR this:
on some year of lates 70s the Ign2 wire was not sourced anymore from ign switch as a brown wire, so you could find a YELLOW wire coming from starter relay ( from a dual pronged setup on relay ) instead a brown wire to source the Ign 2 signal. If thats the case instructions are the same, replacing the brown with the yellow, which must be working exactly like the earlier brown wire
- - - Updated - - -
this reading could help you out too, if you decide not to cut the ballast plugs or make heavy mods
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?57023-How-to-bypass-the-ballast-resistor
If you decide this way, the coil wire will be your keyed source, no need to splice or whatever. just use that wire
which car is ?
I can't recall exactly if 77s were on this way since lates 70s mopars got modifications on wiring, but you can find this:
if you cut the ballast resisitor plugs, will notice, one brown and one blue wire coming from firewall plug ( inside the cab, ign switch ). These are ign 1 and ign 2, then one brown and one green traced red wire going to the engine side wich are one ECU pin and coil wire... despite those... splice together the first ones and attach there the power to the HEI
OR this:
on some year of lates 70s the Ign2 wire was not sourced anymore from ign switch as a brown wire, so you could find a YELLOW wire coming from starter relay ( from a dual pronged setup on relay ) instead a brown wire to source the Ign 2 signal. If thats the case instructions are the same, replacing the brown with the yellow, which must be working exactly like the earlier brown wire
- - - Updated - - -
this reading could help you out too, if you decide not to cut the ballast plugs or make heavy mods
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?57023-How-to-bypass-the-ballast-resistor
If you decide this way, the coil wire will be your keyed source, no need to splice or whatever. just use that wire
sorry, I must correct... on laters, the ballast bypass source doesn't come from the dual prong setup, but the relay have a prong labeled BAL, which is the one what feeds the ballast at cranking moment.
Similar threads
