That's a great idea.
1962 318 poly dual carb
- Thread starter guardian1fox2
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I want to say those early dual 4 setups used WCFB's but it's been too many years. I had a 58 Fury in 1969 with that setup on it. Lots of fun to drive on the freeway. I remember 145 mph and hadn't gotten into the secondaries on the second carb. Around town it was a pooch.
Some years back a local guy had a 62 Belvedere advertised with 'dual Webers'. I had to go see it. Turned out to be a poly 318 with a cast iron dual 4 barrel manifold and someone had adapted 2 small late model Eddies to it. They had the two carbs running in synch rather than mess with progressive linkage. The poor thing ran awful.
With a family and kids he was really looking for a more drivable fun car that wouldn't give him fits every time he took it out. He was wanting way too much money for the intake setup. A few months went by and he tracked me down, now wanting a much lower price for the setup. We talked a while and finally I agreed to swap the intake back to an original 2 barrel intake with a fresh carb for him. He dropped the car off at my place.
When I was making the switch I discovered they'd not hooked up any kick down linkage at all. I was scared to death the transmission was smoked and he'd blame me for the problem. I put the 2 barrel setup on, added proper kick down linkage plus an oem air cleaner assembly and the car ran beautifully. It was appreciably quicker than it had been and the transmission shifted nice and crisp. I don't know how it survived until then. He was so happy with the car he gave me the dual setup. I could not believe how much better that car ran with the 2 barrel setup on it.
Net is the 2x4 setups look neat but I don't think are worth the cost or trouble. You'd be much happier with a single 4 barrel carb in the 650-750 cfm range.
Some years back a local guy had a 62 Belvedere advertised with 'dual Webers'. I had to go see it. Turned out to be a poly 318 with a cast iron dual 4 barrel manifold and someone had adapted 2 small late model Eddies to it. They had the two carbs running in synch rather than mess with progressive linkage. The poor thing ran awful.
With a family and kids he was really looking for a more drivable fun car that wouldn't give him fits every time he took it out. He was wanting way too much money for the intake setup. A few months went by and he tracked me down, now wanting a much lower price for the setup. We talked a while and finally I agreed to swap the intake back to an original 2 barrel intake with a fresh carb for him. He dropped the car off at my place.
When I was making the switch I discovered they'd not hooked up any kick down linkage at all. I was scared to death the transmission was smoked and he'd blame me for the problem. I put the 2 barrel setup on, added proper kick down linkage plus an oem air cleaner assembly and the car ran beautifully. It was appreciably quicker than it had been and the transmission shifted nice and crisp. I don't know how it survived until then. He was so happy with the car he gave me the dual setup. I could not believe how much better that car ran with the 2 barrel setup on it.
Net is the 2x4 setups look neat but I don't think are worth the cost or trouble. You'd be much happier with a single 4 barrel carb in the 650-750 cfm range.
33 IMP
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I've got a couple carbs from a late 50s corvette dual quad setup. Wcfb's (white cast four barrel). They are TINY! My guess? 400 cfm each, maybe. Maybe less.
guardian1fox2
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I agree! Thanks for the story!
guardian1fox2
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Found one of these Chrysler power intakes…little expensive..anyone have any experience with these they can share? Pic below of the intake for sale:
Designed like an Air Gap. Good manifolds from what I have seen on the net. Spendy if you can find one. The old Weiands fetch a easy $500+ and stock 4 barrels run about as much.
guardian1fox2
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Yeah this guy wants 750 for the CP and I just got another option, a Weiand 7503 for $400 pic below. What you think is better option?
On a stock Poly, the Weiand would work perfect. The CP works nice with slightly modified engines and many use them on strokers. With a little finessing they can make some good power. They are almost like a short tunnel ram. Kind of overkill for a stocker.
66 Sat
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Neither for your application.
Search for this thread on here Poly 318 4 barrel intake
The 7503 is not for a stock engine and neither is the Chrysler Power Wind Tunnel.
Find a factory cast iron 4 barrel manifold or stick with the 2 barrel with a 500cfm Holley.
guardian1fox2
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I don’t plan to use it on my engine stock, I’m gathering parts for when i rebuild and I’ll have a little hotter cam. I was supposed to call Toth today but I didn’t get a chance to, I’ll call tomorrow he has some advice for me. I was also told to contact a Gary for advice on cam etc
guardian1fox2
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Guess I need to elaborate some more since my goals have change. The motor in my car will remain stock. I found a nice running poly engine out of a charger relatively local for a really good price ima grab. Ima set this one up on a stand, and while I’m enjoying my car with my family…slowly build out this new engine for when it’s time to rebuild the stock engine. I’ll send it to a shop have it cleaned and prepped, go with new bearings and hotter cam…still want that cruiser reliability and drivability…but enough to give it a little power/sound. I’ll have the 4 bbl intake and new carb as well. I think it’s a decent plan lol
66 Sat
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Sorry should have read your first post a bit more thoroughly.
I'd pay the extra and go with the Wind Tunnel as long as the cam is sufficient. Gary Pavlovich can confirm though. If you're going to do a full rebuild I'd stroke it. I rebuilt mine once as a hot 318 and then rebuilt it again with a 3.58" crank for 354 cubes. Most go with the 4" crank but I'm happy with mine. It made 341hp at the rear wheels with a stock factory 4 barrel manifold.
I'd pay the extra and go with the Wind Tunnel as long as the cam is sufficient. Gary Pavlovich can confirm though. If you're going to do a full rebuild I'd stroke it. I rebuilt mine once as a hot 318 and then rebuilt it again with a 3.58" crank for 354 cubes. Most go with the 4" crank but I'm happy with mine. It made 341hp at the rear wheels with a stock factory 4 barrel manifold.
From what you stated in post 29 it sounds like you used the wrong manifold on your stroker.
33 IMP
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For a slightly warmer 318 poly, I'd use the weiand.
For a stroked poly (especially a 4"stroke version) the Chrysler power wind tunnel, for sure.
I'd probably buy the wind tunnel anyway, even if it is too much for a mild 318, cause it would give room for more improvement later.
Will an 318 LA 4"crank kit piston work in a poly, or are custom poly pistons (big bucks) required? (A good-sized dish piston might clear the poly valve angles?)
For a stroked poly (especially a 4"stroke version) the Chrysler power wind tunnel, for sure.
I'd probably buy the wind tunnel anyway, even if it is too much for a mild 318, cause it would give room for more improvement later.
Will an 318 LA 4"crank kit piston work in a poly, or are custom poly pistons (big bucks) required? (A good-sized dish piston might clear the poly valve angles?)
66 Sat
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This is true to some degree. The 7503 would work better now for sure than it did on my 318, and I'm on the bottom of the cam limit for a Wind Tunnel too so that should work too. But I sold the 7503 to pay for the factory 4 barrel, so that ship has sailed, and my current project is a TKX 5 speed conversion so intake manifolds aren't on my radar at present.From what you stated in post 29 it sounds like you used the wrong manifold on your stroker.
When I do get time Gary P. has recommended I port my factory manifold and given me instructions how to do it, which includes opening up the 4 holes in the plenum top to an open chamber design. He reckons that will vastly increase the hp and torque numbers this way...but it's already running well. It flat out flies and has great low down torque, it really is a nice combo now.
66 Sat
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I honestly wouldn't bother with the 7503 with a 318 unless I had a manual transmission and steeper rear gears. On my fully done 318, high compression, cam, 4 barrel Holley but with a 727/3.23 rear the 7503 was rubbish on the street. It had a huge torque-hole below 3,000 rpm and would never launch without bogging. At higher rpm it was great though.
LA stroker kits won't work unfortunately, you'll need custom pistons. I've got Ross in mine.
guardian1fox2
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Welp, I bought the intake for $400 before I read this lol ehh it’ll be fine . This weekend I’ll be picking up the extra motor if the wife allows on our anniversary trip
33 IMP
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Nice thing about that intake, you can probably turn it for what you paid.... if you can find somebody else who wants one.
66 Sat
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I wouldn't worry about it mate. It wasn't all bad - it looks good, is much lighter and was also more exciting to drive in many ways. When I first drove my car after putting the factory manifold on I was a little underwhelmed. It was smooth and made power and torque from idle, but I was used to the on/off delivery of the 7503 and the great throttle response above 3,000rpm. It took a few days to realise the factory manifold was superior on the street for my set-up, but I still occasionally missed the manic delivery of the 7503.
I'll say it again though - if you are doing a full rebuild on a poly I highly recommend building a stroker. The extra cost won't be huge but the results will be.
guardian1fox2
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Yeah I left a message for toth this afternoon, hoping to pick his brain.
Drove it for the first time for an extended period today since I got it and I’m curious:
Cold the oil pressure is like 55-55psi
Once it gets 180-190 degrees, driving is about 40 or a little less; and 190 degree hot idle after driving is around 15 or 14psi. Is this good? Believe it’s all original. I ordered some driven 10-30 oil and a filter to change next week (I like to change fluids when I get a new car lol)
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