slimt
Well-Known Member
instead of Bad Chad. Its Bad Dad.with a vision.
1964 Dodge 440
- Thread starter dadsbee
- Start date
funnykarman
Well-Known Member
Looks great, a tip from a old man , when you clean out the axel tubes use a toilet brush. With a couple of cans of brake clean. Tape the brush to all thread rod stand the rear end up in a tub or bucket and spray and brush away, Works great.
Man, do I love that car!! Beautiful!!!
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
Just like making a camping potty ! 9 1/4" bucket rim diameter. Backer rod sliced to slip over the rim.
Foam nicely in place.
Pumpkin plopped in place nicely centered on the mounting holes.
Last round I used grease, but I think this is a better approach to keep blasting media out of the gear set and bearings.
Last round I blasted the yoke, then put it in place and taped it off for blasting. Another better plan. Seal packed with shop cloth, AN12 nut in place and taped up.
Paint can cap interiors "snap ring' fits exactly over the nut for a tight fit. Hammered down into place and taped off for two layers of blasting media protection.
Glad I got the fittings out of the old Y fitting so I can clean it up to use. Note the curved cut to fit the axle housing so that it sits tight.
Reproduction I bought through Dr Diff, I guess the Right Stuffs mfg can't ready drawings. Relieved on a 45* angle, not straight across the mounting hole.
My axle holding fixture.
Drill the retainer collar JUST shy of the actual axle.
Foam nicely in place.
Pumpkin plopped in place nicely centered on the mounting holes.
Last round I used grease, but I think this is a better approach to keep blasting media out of the gear set and bearings.
Last round I blasted the yoke, then put it in place and taped it off for blasting. Another better plan. Seal packed with shop cloth, AN12 nut in place and taped up.
Paint can cap interiors "snap ring' fits exactly over the nut for a tight fit. Hammered down into place and taped off for two layers of blasting media protection.
Glad I got the fittings out of the old Y fitting so I can clean it up to use. Note the curved cut to fit the axle housing so that it sits tight.
Reproduction I bought through Dr Diff, I guess the Right Stuffs mfg can't ready drawings. Relieved on a 45* angle, not straight across the mounting hole.
My axle holding fixture.
Drill the retainer collar JUST shy of the actual axle.
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
A couple of wacks with a chisel.
Retainer collar is split and slips right off.
Collar coming off.
Cut wheel to remove a slice of the bearing inner race. Then you can cut the retainer and pull the rollers out.
Retainer cut and pulling the rollers out.
Trash the retainer and pull the rollers as you go. Once the rollers and retainer are removed the outer cup with go right over the inner.
Both axles ready to press the inner bearing race off the axles. A shame since the bearings seemed fine, but the outer seals were definitely toast.
Retainer collar is split and slips right off.
Collar coming off.
Cut wheel to remove a slice of the bearing inner race. Then you can cut the retainer and pull the rollers out.
Retainer cut and pulling the rollers out.
Trash the retainer and pull the rollers as you go. Once the rollers and retainer are removed the outer cup with go right over the inner.
Both axles ready to press the inner bearing race off the axles. A shame since the bearings seemed fine, but the outer seals were definitely toast.
Last edited:
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
The fancy tools from the FSM on how to remove an axle bearing.
How to remove the bearing.
How to install the bearing.
Sorry, but I don't have those tools. Redneck it is with a couple of press plates stood on end and a couple of three point hitch bars.
A leaf spring bushing for a spacer and off we go... standing well to the side while pumping the hydraulic cylinder.
I left it sitting at about 5 TONS for around 10 minutes thinking I may be defeated and any more would probably bend the bearing holders studs. I came back after the NASCAR 10 car wreck, gave it one more pump and it popped.
Right side bearing cone and seal plate off ready for clean up.
Left axle set up and sitting at 6 tons.. standing further off to the side while I pump.
Pop ! Everything apart and now I can clean everything up. Polish the seal surfaces and media blast all the parts.
How to remove the bearing.
How to install the bearing.
Sorry, but I don't have those tools. Redneck it is with a couple of press plates stood on end and a couple of three point hitch bars.
A leaf spring bushing for a spacer and off we go... standing well to the side while pumping the hydraulic cylinder.
I left it sitting at about 5 TONS for around 10 minutes thinking I may be defeated and any more would probably bend the bearing holders studs. I came back after the NASCAR 10 car wreck, gave it one more pump and it popped.
Right side bearing cone and seal plate off ready for clean up.
Left axle set up and sitting at 6 tons.. standing further off to the side while I pump.
Pop ! Everything apart and now I can clean everything up. Polish the seal surfaces and media blast all the parts.
FWIW - I've been told to position those bearing splitters with the cast frame spanning the gap in the bucking frame as they are stronger in bending than the bolts. But you got it to work without all those fancy factory tools so nice work.
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
UMMMM.. the axle flange diameter doesn't fit through the press frame gap and you also have the outer seal/retainer plate in the way so you don't have much to "catch" with the press plates as you don't want to be pressing on the retainer. You can't turn it 90 degrees and press across the two bearing splitter plates as the bearing retainer plate diameter is out past the plate retention studs.
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
Axle seal surfaces look fairly good...
Until you turn it 180*s. Things you can't see when buying a used axle housing.
Into the old 1942 Forward to see if I can clean it up. A bit of lathe running and a file to start.
Then some 120 paper to finish.
Looks like we've got it licked and some nice seal surfaces.
Seal and bearing area taped off on each axle ready for media blasting.
Knocked out the old outer axle seals so I can media blast the retainers.
Tired of dust in the shop, so I took the old central vac power head and mounted it to the cabinet with some 2" SCAT hose out the window.
Let see how this works!
Axle into the cabinet and the shaft stuffed out a hole to get the flange center in the cabinet.
Until you turn it 180*s. Things you can't see when buying a used axle housing.
Into the old 1942 Forward to see if I can clean it up. A bit of lathe running and a file to start.
Then some 120 paper to finish.
Looks like we've got it licked and some nice seal surfaces.
Seal and bearing area taped off on each axle ready for media blasting.
Knocked out the old outer axle seals so I can media blast the retainers.
Tired of dust in the shop, so I took the old central vac power head and mounted it to the cabinet with some 2" SCAT hose out the window.
Let see how this works!
Axle into the cabinet and the shaft stuffed out a hole to get the flange center in the cabinet.
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
3/4" air intake hole in the back of the cabinet and also the hole the axle was stuffed out through and before I could get it unplugged I sucked the cabinet in and broke the viewing glass! After that I took the complete 3" plug out of the cabinet back for air in.
Before
After a quick blast and ready to do the back side
Axle flanges and bearing areas sprayed down with Boeshield T9 corrosion protection.
Before
After a quick blast and ready to do the back side
Axle flanges and bearing areas sprayed down with Boeshield T9 corrosion protection.
—-
Got to love the ingenuity that comes with home projects. Betcha there’s good visibility in that blast cabinet now that there’s make up air in there.
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
I can leave the door open and zero dust in the shop ! LOL
——
Hahaha I believe it. And in the spring you’ll need a shovel to scoop up the sand where the hose was.
Like my paint booth vent piping. Had to make sure to lay cardboard on the concrete where the pipe ended. Otherwise whatever colour a guy sprayed was the colour of the concrete.
That’s also a pretty beefy old lathe chuck holding that axle. Nice set up.
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
——
Awesome! What a brute. Bet that likely still cuts within.001 Over 80 years old. Irreplaceable.
A buddy and I built my crank mandrel on his old 1921 Hannefin Multi Function Machine last fall.
Over 100 year old and it actually did some time on a ship in the 40’s to boot.
I bet that Forward weighs in at a lot more than the year it was built (1942)
My King unit. A toy, wouldn’t come close to that Forward or the Hannifin.
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
In the air and seeing what I need to adapt or change to put this "new" rear axle housing in.
Could use a LOT of cleanup, but not happening this round!
Drives me nuts when an entire exhaust system is welded together. Makes dropping it to change anything damn near impossible. Not to mention the craziness of 2.5" head pipes and 3" tail pipes... but it's QUIET!
Look like we're getting the rear axle out of here just in time.
Why I'm going with the new standard style housing vs the old wider '64 taper (widest of all B bodies). These are P275 tires and I have that gap on the inside and rubbing the wheel well on the inside. Properly centered there'd be no issue with even 295's in these wells. This rear end is also a "peg leg" vs a sure trac.
Outside just clears the lip and rubs the well on bumps.
Part line up for the media blaster.
Off we go with media blasting. I got the bearing retainer plates done and then the old (27 year old) central vac motor decided it had lived long enough. Another on order to be here Tuesday.
Retainers dunked in T9 and left to dry. Outer axle seals next and then I can press new bearings onto the axles.
Could use a LOT of cleanup, but not happening this round!
Drives me nuts when an entire exhaust system is welded together. Makes dropping it to change anything damn near impossible. Not to mention the craziness of 2.5" head pipes and 3" tail pipes... but it's QUIET!
Look like we're getting the rear axle out of here just in time.
Why I'm going with the new standard style housing vs the old wider '64 taper (widest of all B bodies). These are P275 tires and I have that gap on the inside and rubbing the wheel well on the inside. Properly centered there'd be no issue with even 295's in these wells. This rear end is also a "peg leg" vs a sure trac.
Outside just clears the lip and rubs the well on bumps.
Part line up for the media blaster.
Off we go with media blasting. I got the bearing retainer plates done and then the old (27 year old) central vac motor decided it had lived long enough. Another on order to be here Tuesday.
Retainers dunked in T9 and left to dry. Outer axle seals next and then I can press new bearings onto the axles.
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2020
- Messages
- 7,974
- Reaction score
- 18,366
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
I changed both of my '64's over to '68-'69 rear ends, which are about the same width as the original '64 rear end. For me, it was a direct bolt in, after changing the newer E-brake cables for the original '64's. I still have lots of clearance for 215/70 x 15" tires on 7" rims. Your narrower '66-'67 rear end should give you more options for wider tires.
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
Outer axle seals, WS8704S, ready to install into both retainers.
Piece of tubing I ground a few years ago to fit the seal, just for this process.
Seal, install tube, board and a 5lb sledge.
Outer axle seal seated in place.
Same deal on the right/passenger side adjuster for installing it's outer axle seal.
No point putting in new seals and letting the oil seep out the adjuster threads. PST 592.. I put that **** on everything.
Both seals in their retainer plates.
80W90 on the seal lip and spring area.
Retainer in place on the axle, a wipe of bearing grease on the cup.
Bearings hand packed with grease and ready to press into place with their retaining collars.
Piece of tubing I ground a few years ago to fit the seal, just for this process.
Seal, install tube, board and a 5lb sledge.
Outer axle seal seated in place.
Same deal on the right/passenger side adjuster for installing it's outer axle seal.
No point putting in new seals and letting the oil seep out the adjuster threads. PST 592.. I put that **** on everything.
Both seals in their retainer plates.
80W90 on the seal lip and spring area.
Retainer in place on the axle, a wipe of bearing grease on the cup.
Bearings hand packed with grease and ready to press into place with their retaining collars.
- Local time
- 5:24 AM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 21,183
- Reaction score
- 74,115
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
Left axle bearing being pressed into place.
7 Tons of pressure to seat it into place.
One down, one to go.
Right side is up next.
Right axle bearing pressed into place.
Wrapped in plastic to keep any foreign material out until ready to install into axle housing.
7 Tons of pressure to seat it into place.
One down, one to go.
Right side is up next.
Right axle bearing pressed into place.
Wrapped in plastic to keep any foreign material out until ready to install into axle housing.
—-
Good job as always. And you’re right, unless you smear everything with sealer, sure as **** there’s gonna be something dribbling.
Similar threads
