1964 Rusty Bucket transformation

[Crumley]

ckessel:
I went to the local Sherwin Williams Auto Paint store. All they had was the 3M epoxy and the special double barrel application gun....the epoxy was $30.00 and a heck of a lot more epoxy then I would ever need. The 3M epoxy application gun was $50.00, this is very pricey for what little epoxy that i needed. Because I needed such a small amount the gentleman working the counter suggested going to O'Rileys, they sell small 2 part epoxies. O'Rileys carried JW Weld brand, water proof marine 2 part epoxy. It comes in a small double barrel syringe applicator for $8.00 bucks. It should be more then enough to do what I need.This stuff set up rock hard in about 24 hours.

camtra:
Thank you for the complement.

Well I had some time to work on the 64 today. I finished drilling out the left side tack welds. Also took the trusty rose bud out and removed lead. There was a couple pesky tacks that was hard to see and one that was behind the rear panel that extends under the rear bumper. I had to drill this tack out from inside the trunk. The 1/4 panel is now laying in the floor.



The back window mechinisem is now sitting in the parts cleaner. I have begain the process wire brushing the inner steel structure, so it can be POR 15'ed and painted.

After the post from malex, I will be modifying the front of the left fender well to allow for bigger tires. I will go back to the right side fender well at a future time and modify.

Some additional pictures for the picture hounds out there see attached:



I forgot, this is about the 3rd mouse/ rats nest that I have cleaned out....lol:

 

[Crumley]

Did a little work today. The window mechanism is out of the parts cleaner. I will need to clean the rust out of the roller track. I will wire brush the heck out of it and apply POR15.



Actually the area behind the back tire wasn't near as bad as the right side. I will attempt the make a repair panel for this area.



Not unless I can find a reproduction panel for this area that isn't to pricey.

 

[ckessel]

Too bad you are not in my hood. I could make that for you. Took some classes at Lazze Metal Dreams to learn how to form sheetmetal parts. I bought the machines after I was done with the classes. This is what I try to do for a living when work is available. Other wise I do mechanical on old classics. Here is a pice I did on a 65 Coronet.

 

[malex]

Good decision Crumley to make that little bit of extra room at the rear lip at this point. You won't regret it. On mine, there was only about a half inch space before I opened mine up. No issues now!

 

[Crumley]

ckessel, the patch panel looks good, hope all the dirt, debris and rust behind the panel was removed before installing.

Not much to add for this week. I ground down all of the spot welds flush with the surrounding sheet metal to so I begin the installation of the 1/4 panel.

I made a some patch panels for the fender well and trunk extension. They are currently tacked in until final fitment of the 1/4 panel. When I am happy with the 1/4 panel fit they will get welded out. Thank goodness they will be unseen, not the best looking patch panels...lol, but they will work. I also scraped off more under coating in the back fender wells. For the picture hounds out there, see attached:



I can now see why most body shops don't do restorations...it is amazing how much time it can take to make small patch panels.

I also made a 3rd patch panel for the back of the right side fender extension....by this time...I had drank way to many beers before I welded it in lol .......as they say a grinder and paint make a welder what he ain't...lol.



Malex, I am confused, I was thinking it was the front of the inner fender well that needed the modification, can you give a quick overview of what was done? If it is to elaborate the PM me on what needs to be modified.

 

[malex]

Hi Crumley. I was saying that if you ever decide to run a tall tire like the 315s on my car, you will find that the space between the tire and the wheel lip at the forward part of your wheel opening will be tight. Maybe a half inch space at best. Mine had rubber scuffs on that lip before I reworked the 1/4 panels. The tire was obviously able to move ahead whether it was bumps, tire growth, etc, and it touched. I cured the problem by stretching my wheel opening. The front of my wheel opening lip now lays flat over the wheel tub. Before, the wheel opening lip was about an inch closer to the tire. Here's a couple more pics and maybe you can see where the front lip of the quarter tightly wraps over the tub at the lower most forward part.

 

[Crumley]

Hi Malex,

Thank you for the post and pictures, I now see exactly where the modification is needed. The changes will be made on the belvedere.

Thanks again
Crumley

 

[Timmayy]

WOW! Looking great so far.

 

[Crumley]

A little update. The LH 1/4 is on.



It isn't tacked yet, still more prep work to do before final tacking.

The area that Malex is referring to is here, see picture:


I was hoping I could pie cut this area to get the needed clearance....I just don't see how I can make a pie cut work. The other option is to cut the inner and outer panels and lengthen them (area in blue tape) and make a patch panel. See picture:

I don't plan on doing a lot of drag racing with the car. Maybe a run or two every now and then.

I am currently crawl fishing on stretching the back fender wells to make room for 315 tires, due all the extra body work involved.

 

[ckessel]

Before you weld the quarter, fit the trunk lid, tail light, inner wheel house, back glass, bumper and anything else thats in the area. When you get them fitted, then start pulling the trigger. I saw some interesting stuff, while managing a body shop, that had been done elsewhere. One ding dong welded a rear trunk panel and a quarter on a Honda completely before fitting panels up then had to porta power the structure around to attempt alignment. Major ugly and major water leaks. One of the reasons this work costs money for QUALITY WORK. Cheap work and sculpting with bondo is for hacks. As you are finding out, its time consuming and the farther you get into the job you discover more issues. Basic old car stuff 101. For moving the wheel openings, see if someone in your area has an English Wheel with some skills to use it. Check out a rod shop etc.

 

[Superfreak]

I have a new set 1/4's from AMD and need to do the same thing but considering what it cost me to get the two 1/4's up here I am serious looking at changing the tire size. I have 1/4 skins on the car now and I cut all around the opening and then welded in a
piece of 3/16" round stock that I formed to shape but I have to do other patching and just got tired of it hence buying the full 1/4"s. I don't like the look of the tires being in too far so I set my rear up to to keep the tires as close to the inner lip as possible. A lot of guys go
pretty fast on small tires so something to think about unless you are going for the look that only a big tire can give. It's a tough decision man so make it a good one.

Robert

 

[Crumley]

Another update for those that are interested.

timmayy, thank you for the complement.

ckessel, thank you for the response. Unfortunately there isn't anyone that I know of in my area that has those tools. I am currently planning to build my own English Wheel. I will be purchasing a box brake and shrink-er stretcher to do the metal work around the windows.
The tail light fit just fine. I will temporarily install the trunk lid after the 1/4 panel has some random tacks (so I can close the trunk lid) to check for fitment. Unfortunately the back window for this car is in a thousand pieces and is at the county dump.
The fender opening will stay stock. I just won't run 315's.

I have already experienced trying to weld a small 6" x 6" patch on a long bed truck. The welding part was no problem it was the warping of the panel due to weld shrinkage...no matter how much time I took (a couple of days) it would shrink. I had one heck of a time trying to stretching the metal. There was so little access to the back side. Then the panel got work brittle and start cracking….you could say I am a little gun shy…lol.

With that said there is little to no access to the back side of the installed right side 1/4 panel. I will have a heck of a time stretching the metal now that is installed. As much as I would like to do this modification it is currently a no go.

Superfreak, correct, I just won't be able to run a 315 tire. The 295 should clear. If I begin to spend more time at the strip I will consider the modification then.

I did get the patch panels welded in and POR 15 applied. The back side of the ¼ panel primed and some small back window pieces painted. For the picture hound out there see attached.

 

[Crumley]

Another update, the inner structure and inside of the 1/4 panel are primed and painted. Hopefully they will be dry enough tomorrow to do a little work on the 64. See pictures:

 

[Basket case]

you're doing a fantastic job. agreed on the body shops.time is $$ and they want the quick in and out insurance jobs.

 

[Crumley]

I got the opportunity to work on the 64 a little today. The back window' crank mechanism is greased and installed. A majority of the holes to tack thru have been punched in the 1/4 panel.

 

[Crumley]

Not much to add...I have been in Destin Florida for the past week or so. I did manage to get rest of the tacking holes drilled in the LH 1/4 panel today. No pictures, not unless ya'll want to see holes in a 1/4 panel...lol.

 

[Superfreak]

Just put a little fur around the holes first and everyone will be happy.

 

[Crumley]

Basket case, Thank you for the support.

Superfreak, fur around holes.....hummmm that can be fun to look at.....lol. Remember this is a family site....

Here is an update on the 64. The LH 1/4 panel is randomly tacked on. The deck lid is bolted on. It is a little close where the back of the deck lid meets the 1/4 panel and tail lights. I hoping this won't be an issue.



The LH door striker is mounted, the door opens and closes with a nice clicking sound. I am concerned with the gap along the lower curve of the door and 1/4 panel. It looks a little to close to me? I hope it can be seen in the pictures.



When the car is painted will the gap at the door curvature and the 1/4 panel be to close? Currently there is maybe 1/64" to 1/32" gap. Is there a minimum gap needed for painting? If so what would it be? The door can be moved forward maybe 1/16" before there it contacts the A pillar. Can the needed gap be made by sanding the curve on the door? Or will the 1/4 panel need to be cut in the curve and re-radius to make the gap?

 

[Superfreak]

I would cut the 1/4 and make the gap match the vertical part of the door gap and then blend into the bottom gap so it matches. What is shown in the pic is too tight.

 

[Homstead]

You could also grind the curve of the door till it fits. You will have to weld the skin back together once your done. Just another option....