1966 Charger. Rough idle, won't stay on.

[vuduchikin]

I have some extra gaskets I can try.

Right now, my plan is to have for grounds:

One from passenger side of intake manifold to firewall; one from voltage regulator to block; one from battery to block; one from battery to core support; one from block (passenger side) to core support.

Just trying to cover my bases with ground. Anything wrong with this plan, or any better suggestions? May also ground alternator case to something, just not sure what.

 

[Don Frelier]

Try a new condenser

 

[Jeff Erwin]

My 71 Superbee 440x6 is doing the exact same thing. I just rebuilt the center carb and put it back on so that has to be the culprit, nothing else has changed. I will be removing it today and figuring out what I screwed up.

I would focus on the carb.

 

[Purepony]

I have some extra gaskets I can try.

Right now, my plan is to have for grounds:

One from passenger side of intake manifold to firewall; one from voltage regulator to block; one from battery to block; one from battery to core support; one from block (passenger side) to core support.

Just trying to cover my bases with ground. Anything wrong with this plan, or any better suggestions? May also ground alternator case to something, just not sure what.

I doubt it’s power if it starts
If it starts on its own you have power
Unless the battery is completely dead and you need to jump start it probably

 

[Jeff Erwin]

OK, I solved my similar problem on 1971 440x6. After rebuilding all three carbs the engine would barely start, then buck and snort like a wounded horse. Since I didn't change anything else it had to be the carbs, and since the outer carbs weren't really involved in starting and idling I decided to start with the center carb.

Holley 4144 (2300). I removed it and carefully took it apart layer by layer. I found the vacuum space in the middle of the metering block full of fuel. It's supposed to be dry as all it does is draw a vacuum and close the power port. Gas inside it meant the gasket that covers the metering block on that side had to be leaking so the vacuum was pulling fuel from the flow lines on either side. Result was raw fuel flowing into the engine bypassing all of the carb metering passages. Result is an engine that bucks and barely runs.

Replaced the gasket. ALWAYS use the blue Holley gaskets as they are malleable and reusable. The hard black gaskets that come with the cheaper rebuild kits don't seem to want to mold into the right form so they leak.

Engine started immediately and purrs like a well-fed kitten.

Don't overlook anything, sometimes it's the stupid stuff that gets you.

 

[vuduchikin]

I have a friend with a good carburetor that I can test with.

One question. I want to put a spacer in. I need to use this vacuum adapter for use with my 2186 intake. Do I still need this with a square bore spacer? If I do, would it be: gasket - adapter - gasket - spacer - gasket - carburetor? Or no?

 

[vuduchikin]

About to just quit lol. Car is back to bad voltage at coil. Been through four coils. All pass ohm test. 12 and 6v at ballast as it should be. Reading 1v-3v on neg and 5v-6v on pos when cranking. Idk what could be causing voltage drop between ballast and coil. I have 4 grounds. Not a grounding issue. I don’t get it.

 

[Don Frelier]

Try running a test wire to the ballast and then to the coil.
One change at a time.

 

[vuduchikin]

Ran a jumper wire from battery to coil. Key on, coil read 12v~ on pos, 1v~ on neg. Cranked, kicked like it wanted to start very briefly a few times, but did not start.

 

[vuduchikin]

Am I supposed to be getting such low voltage to neg of coil?

 

[vuduchikin]

Been researching for the last few hours. Can't really find any more info. Gonna try another coil in the morning... will check all my grounds again... I have a ground from front of intake to core support, front of block to battery, back of intake to firewall, and voltage regulator to back of block. I really didn't think there'd be a ground issue.

It's a new ignition switch... new-ish Distributor. Car was running (though not staying on as original post says) a few days ago. I'm not exactly sure what could have happened lol.

 

[LowBikeMike]

The voltage at the coil will vary depending upon if the points are closed or not. You mentioned earlier your test light was flashing on the negative side when cranking, that is normal. The points are working properly opening and closing the primary ignition circuit. The points opening breaks the circuit which in turn induces the voltage in the secondary side of the coil and fires the plugs. Your measured voltage on the + side with key on is a bit low, but not low enough to cause an issue in my opinion. I'm a bit concerned you are losing a volt, 11 volts at coil unplugged, through your harness, but again I don't think thats enough to cause your issue. I think you primary ignition side is fine. Take a plug out or get a spark tester, are you getting consistent spark at the plug? If so, time to look elsewhere. Carbon tracks in cap, spark plug wire grounded or carb issue.

 

[jmbass98]

Just to clarify. This is with a jumper wire from battery to coil that I am getting these readings.