1966 coronet 2dr sedan general overhauling
- Thread starter Thedeputy
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Thedeputy
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Thanks!
I made some more progress today. I contacted Cass @DoctorDiff about the worn clutch pack in my sure grip casing and he advised me to change the clutch discs. I ordered those parts along with a rebuild kit for the diff this week and in anticipation of it's arrival I cleaned and disassembled all the parts. I came up with a neat trick to remove the axle shaft bearings. Using an induction heater I was able to heat the retainer enough to easily press it of the axle shaft. It certainly beats cutting it off and the ring can also be reused if neccesary.
Here's a link to a youtube video of the removal using induction heat.
I made some more progress today. I contacted Cass @DoctorDiff about the worn clutch pack in my sure grip casing and he advised me to change the clutch discs. I ordered those parts along with a rebuild kit for the diff this week and in anticipation of it's arrival I cleaned and disassembled all the parts. I came up with a neat trick to remove the axle shaft bearings. Using an induction heater I was able to heat the retainer enough to easily press it of the axle shaft. It certainly beats cutting it off and the ring can also be reused if neccesary.
Here's a link to a youtube video of the removal using induction heat.
Thedeputy
Well-Known Member
Winter has kept me out of the garage for a while but lately I've had a chance to make some more progress.
I've sandblasted and cleaned all the old and rusty parts and treated them with a rustconverting liquid called RX5, followed by a good coat of cast iron gray.
I've sandblasted and cleaned all the old and rusty parts and treated them with a rustconverting liquid called RX5, followed by a good coat of cast iron gray.
Thedeputy
Well-Known Member
And today I started the assembly of the differential. I got new parts from DoctorDiff like a new clutch pack, thrust button and general overhaul kit.
For now I've assembled the sure grip diff. What a pain in the *** that is to do. It took me a few tries to get the axles to slide in after I torqued everything down. Even with the axles shafts inside the diff. the gears would be under so much tension that somehow they would rotate just enough for the axles not to fit anymore.
After carfully bolting it down I won the battle. Next up is installing it all in the carrier housing.
All the parts spread out over the work bench.
Installed the internals and prelubed the sure grip discs with friction modifier.
The case halves aligned at the pre-disassembly punch marks.
Bolting it all down with the shafts installed. Later I had to stand the whole assembly straight up since the teeth weren't lining up anymore after I had pulled out the alxe shafts.
Final torqueing down with thread locker @50 ft-lbs and a good old torque wrench.
For now I've assembled the sure grip diff. What a pain in the *** that is to do. It took me a few tries to get the axles to slide in after I torqued everything down. Even with the axles shafts inside the diff. the gears would be under so much tension that somehow they would rotate just enough for the axles not to fit anymore.
After carfully bolting it down I won the battle. Next up is installing it all in the carrier housing.
All the parts spread out over the work bench.
Installed the internals and prelubed the sure grip discs with friction modifier.
The case halves aligned at the pre-disassembly punch marks.
Bolting it all down with the shafts installed. Later I had to stand the whole assembly straight up since the teeth weren't lining up anymore after I had pulled out the alxe shafts.
Final torqueing down with thread locker @50 ft-lbs and a good old torque wrench.
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I use a set of T handles made from a set of old axles to test and stack the carriers on assembly.
I take the T handles with me when I go hunting at swap meets and can negotiate price based on if the Sure Grip has plenty of grunt left in it. I stand on the bottom T and put all I can into the top T handle and if it's really hard to twist, they are usually good to go. I still take them apart once I'm home with it and the T handles haven't lied to me yet lol.
I take the T handles with me when I go hunting at swap meets and can negotiate price based on if the Sure Grip has plenty of grunt left in it. I stand on the bottom T and put all I can into the top T handle and if it's really hard to twist, they are usually good to go. I still take them apart once I'm home with it and the T handles haven't lied to me yet lol.
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- Local time
- 3:34 AM
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2009
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- 35,594
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- 46,213
- Location
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It's pretty easy to check just a Sure Grip but when it's fully assembled you're dealing with 80+ lbs trying to swinging around lol.
Thedeputy
Well-Known Member
It sure is!
At least I won't have to touch it again after I'm finished.
What kind of lube should I use? I've got a very high quality synthetic 90W140 which is used in heavy truck applications and then add the friction modifier. Or should I use another type of oil?
At least I won't have to touch it again after I'm finished.
What kind of lube should I use? I've got a very high quality synthetic 90W140 which is used in heavy truck applications and then add the friction modifier. Or should I use another type of oil?
Thedeputy
Well-Known Member
I had some more spare time on my hands this weekend so I painted the final parts that needed it.
I found a pair of adjustable koni shocks. For a stealth look I painted them semi gloss black.
The same goes for the axle housing and the leaf springs.
Next up is the installation of the pinion and differential in the casing.
I found a pair of adjustable koni shocks. For a stealth look I painted them semi gloss black.
The same goes for the axle housing and the leaf springs.
Next up is the installation of the pinion and differential in the casing.
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I've never used synthetics in my rears so really can't same yay or nay but have read where many have used syn with no problems. Some gear manufactures recommend break in be done with regular gear oil then switch to syn. In the 80's a buddy did a test at the track by changing to syn doing one unit at a time. He swapped the oil in the engine first then the trans and then the rear and the car went faster each time. The change wasn't much but it did change and it consistently ran the quicker times for the rest of the season.
Thedeputy
Well-Known Member
Since I'm using a used set of gears I have no issues regarding break in. For the bearings a synthetic is in my opinion the way to go. Since a synthetic is more consistent bearings should have a longer life. Because it's thinner the energie losses because of friction are lower. The temperature of the casing should therefore be lower and economy should get better.
I also asked this question to cass from DoctorDiff and he said synthetic oil can be used but there's more chance of leaks.
I've got access to cheap synthetic oil so I think I will try it. I'll also be adding the friction modifier so the sure grip clutches won't chatter.
I also asked this question to cass from DoctorDiff and he said synthetic oil can be used but there's more chance of leaks.
I've got access to cheap synthetic oil so I think I will try it. I'll also be adding the friction modifier so the sure grip clutches won't chatter.
Thedeputy
Well-Known Member
My spare time today was filled with the installation and adjustment of the sure grip unit in the casing. Pinion bearing preload was set as well as proper backlash and shoulder bearing preload.
The pics tell the tale.
Enjoy.
To set the correct pinion depth of mesh I first used the shim from the old set-up. It should give me a baseline as a starting point. The shim measured 0,72 mm.
The same goes for the pinion bearing preload. Since I converted the unit from a collapsible spacer to a solid spacer with shims, I measured the old collapsible spacer as a baseline setting.
In order to ease the disassembly of the inner pinion bearing I ordered two of them and honed one out with a simple piece of threaded rod with a deep groove cut in one end. Simply wedge in a long strip of course sanding paper and insert in a drill to grind out the inside of the bearing.
This makes setting up depth of mesh a whole lot easier.
After some trial and error and torquing the nut to the correct checking torque of 100 ft-Lbs the pinion bearing preload was set exactly in between the desired specs of 20-30 ft-Lbs. A beam style inch-pound torque wrench makes this real easy. Don't forget to lube the bearings with a little oil or else the reading ends up too low in the end.
Next up was the installation of the sure grip unit. First adjust it with zero play between the bearings and leave some backlash between the pinion and drive gear. Here I'm measuring the play between the bearings. There should be no play and no preload.
Next is finding the point of least backlash. The gear may not be perfectly straight or the casing not exactly right. Finding the point of minimum backlash prevents that when adjustments are finished there could be another point where backlash is in fact less than desired. Measure backlash in four different places to find this point. Clearly scribe down a mark on the measured tooth and don't change that point until setting backlash and preload is finished.
The pics tell the tale.
Enjoy.
To set the correct pinion depth of mesh I first used the shim from the old set-up. It should give me a baseline as a starting point. The shim measured 0,72 mm.
The same goes for the pinion bearing preload. Since I converted the unit from a collapsible spacer to a solid spacer with shims, I measured the old collapsible spacer as a baseline setting.
In order to ease the disassembly of the inner pinion bearing I ordered two of them and honed one out with a simple piece of threaded rod with a deep groove cut in one end. Simply wedge in a long strip of course sanding paper and insert in a drill to grind out the inside of the bearing.
This makes setting up depth of mesh a whole lot easier.
After some trial and error and torquing the nut to the correct checking torque of 100 ft-Lbs the pinion bearing preload was set exactly in between the desired specs of 20-30 ft-Lbs. A beam style inch-pound torque wrench makes this real easy. Don't forget to lube the bearings with a little oil or else the reading ends up too low in the end.
Next up was the installation of the sure grip unit. First adjust it with zero play between the bearings and leave some backlash between the pinion and drive gear. Here I'm measuring the play between the bearings. There should be no play and no preload.
Next is finding the point of least backlash. The gear may not be perfectly straight or the casing not exactly right. Finding the point of minimum backlash prevents that when adjustments are finished there could be another point where backlash is in fact less than desired. Measure backlash in four different places to find this point. Clearly scribe down a mark on the measured tooth and don't change that point until setting backlash and preload is finished.
Thedeputy
Well-Known Member
The first try with the 0,72 mm shim gave this result. The pattern is on the ends of the teeth. This means the pinion should get higher in the casing. A thicker shim is therefore required.
This means the complete differential needs to be disassembled to install a thicker pinion bearing shim. The shims provided in the overhaul kit were all about the same thickness which makes it hard to make a good choice. I figured it should need about 0,2 mm to get a better tooth pattern. I ended with a pair of shims with a total of 0,935 mm thickness.
Then again complete assembly including proper backlash and bearing preload as pictured in the previous post.
Surprisingly the result is beautiful. The tooth patterns on both sides of the teeth are located in the center of the teeth. This means the settings are now perfect. All that's left is completely disassemble the diff. again, and install the correct inner pinion bearing and reassemble it using the same settings. Simply scribe down some marks on the adjuster rings to regain the initial setting. Offcourse checking backlash and bearing preload.
Now's also the time to install the seal that goes on the pinion shaft.
The finished result.
What's left now is install the casing in the axle housing, install new bearings on the axle shafts, assemble the brakes and install everything on the housing.
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Jeff_383
Well-Known Member
I've ways loved that car. I had a picture of it on my computer about 10 years ago. The no slot steel wheels always stuck out to me.
Thedeputy
Well-Known Member
Really? Do you still have older pics from it? I've tried to do a background check but the seller hasn't come through on information about previous owners.
Please send me a private message if you do.
Thanks,
Antoon
Please send me a private message if you do.
Thanks,
Antoon
Thedeputy
Well-Known Member
This week I spend some time on the leaf springs and the brakes. The list keeps getting shorter.....
The re-arched springs. Painted semi gloss black with cast iron gray clamps. New poly urethane bushings.
Newly blasted and cast iron gray painted backingplates with new warner brake shoes and assembly parts.
And the finished result.
Next time I hope to show pics of the completely assembled axle.
The re-arched springs. Painted semi gloss black with cast iron gray clamps. New poly urethane bushings.
Newly blasted and cast iron gray painted backingplates with new warner brake shoes and assembly parts.
And the finished result.
Next time I hope to show pics of the completely assembled axle.
Thedeputy
Well-Known Member
That time has come.
Finally I have all the parts ready and the axle has been assembled. Enjoy the pics.
I installed new bolts, seals and timken bearings on the axle shafts. Since I had no cooking plate to heat the collar I used the frying pan set @ 190 degrees celsius to heat the collar so I could smash it in place more easily.
Did I mention my garage is small? I have about 2 1/2 feet between the car and the workbench.
The assembled axle is shown above. Freshly painted housing, fully rebuild 489 3.23 clutch sure grip differential, new 11 x 2,5" drum brakes.
The axle shafts were not yet installed when I took this pic but it shows how pretty the assembly it looks out in the sun. It's not a total resto kind of thing but I do like the factory original appearance.
I would like to add some period correct inspection marks like the with 'x' in a white circle, and maybe the yellow 'B' on the back. And also the paint daubs that show the installed gears and wheather there's a sure grip unit installed.
However I haven't found good reference material on how these inspection marks should be on '66 cars.
If you have a link please let me know.
That's it for now. All that's left is installing it and wake her up after a winter of sleeping.
Finally I have all the parts ready and the axle has been assembled. Enjoy the pics.
I installed new bolts, seals and timken bearings on the axle shafts. Since I had no cooking plate to heat the collar I used the frying pan set @ 190 degrees celsius to heat the collar so I could smash it in place more easily.
Did I mention my garage is small? I have about 2 1/2 feet between the car and the workbench.
The assembled axle is shown above. Freshly painted housing, fully rebuild 489 3.23 clutch sure grip differential, new 11 x 2,5" drum brakes.
The axle shafts were not yet installed when I took this pic but it shows how pretty the assembly it looks out in the sun. It's not a total resto kind of thing but I do like the factory original appearance.
I would like to add some period correct inspection marks like the with 'x' in a white circle, and maybe the yellow 'B' on the back. And also the paint daubs that show the installed gears and wheather there's a sure grip unit installed.
However I haven't found good reference material on how these inspection marks should be on '66 cars.
If you have a link please let me know.
That's it for now. All that's left is installing it and wake her up after a winter of sleeping.
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