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1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2

I cut a piece of roll magnet that would fit in the socket and stuck it in.
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Now the nut doesn't fall out! Took a couple of tries, but I managed to get it started on the stud by hand with a 12" wobble extension. Then tightened it up, again with the air ratchet being the only way to turn it.
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All hooked up and a few slow pushes on the pedal hoping fluid will get the bit of air out of the top of the brake line and back into the master. And success !

In place and the brake line hooked up quickly so no fluid was lost. All tightened back up and looking much better. Main thing I hope is that it doesn't leak and works good. Also centered up the steering column outer tube with the shaft while I was under the dash.
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Nice work. Now if I can just find a rebuild kit.
 
Nice work. Now if I can just find a rebuild kit.
Is your master leaking out the back as well?.. or just not working well?

Seach the K256 and K260 part numbers as they are both correct 1" bores. You can probably find one for less than I have into my now spare with cost and shipping. I won't want to part with it until I can test the brakes in the Spring either...
 
The K260 kits I found were for some crazy Nissan truck.
 
Interesting tale I'll share from yesterday. I spent over an hour looking for the lock clip for the clutch fork rod, engine side. I knew that I'd left the interior sides clip and all the hardware for the brake master on the floor carpet along with the tools. Got everything back together, had one clip to install the clutch rod and couldn't for the life of me remember where I "safely" stored the engine side clip. I gave up, grabbed a spare out of the glove box in the Bee and then went about cleaning up and putting away all of the tools. Last up was my flashlight, went to stick it to my tool box and it wouldn't stick! The clutch rod clip was on the magnet pad!

Sprayed some Krown down inside the mint frame rails today and poked away at cleaning this and that up while thinking of what else needs "touch up" and refining. Decided that I need a torque strap on this thing and need to "create" that. Also gave thought to whether the sway bar assembly was removed for "nose lift" when drag racing or the car never had one. No signs of clamp on bracket marks on the strut rods, but the sway bar if ever there could have been removed Day 2. Been waiting on a guy to send me a dead 27 series script battery so I can build another one for this car. If that fails I'll destroy the guts out of the dry charged one I've had on the shelf for 32 years and build one from it before Spring.

Also have a few trim dings I'd like to dolly out, just not really keen on popping things off even though I had a trim clip kit in stock. I'll start with the front passenger wheel well trim that has a single sharp ding in it, since it just screws on.

Also believe that someone mentioned the 426 HEMI sticker doesn't belong on the cleaner lid, just the maintenance decal.... if someone would be so kind to confirm I'll see if it peels...

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Mine did not have the sticker on it ------But i liked it and put one on---- It did have the Maintenace sticker
 
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Interesting tale I'll share from yesterday. I spent over an hour looking for the lock clip for the clutch fork rod, engine side. I knew that I'd left the interior sides clip and all the hardware for the brake master on the floor carpet along with the tools. Got everything back together, had one clip to install the clutch rod and couldn't for the life of me remember where I "safely" stored the engine side clip. I gave up, grabbed a spare out of the glove box in the Bee and then went about cleaning up and putting away all of the tools. Last up was my flashlight, went to stick it to my tool box and it wouldn't stick! The clutch rod clip was on the magnet pad!

Lol. That exact same thing happened to me a couple of years ago. Thought I was losing my mind. Took me 45 minutes to realize what happened. Had to walk away for a few minutes before I self destructed.
 
I figured I was the only one to shoot Kroil up inside framr rails and rockers. Drips out for days if you really load it up.
 
I do my door bottoms and the seam of the rear wheel tubs to quarter panels inside the trunk, too.
 
I do my door bottoms and the seam of the rear wheel tubs to quarter panels inside the trunk, too.
After seeing the inside of my trunk extensions on the Superbird nicely coated in surface rust I thought it prudent to start spraying and will be looking in the trunk "drops" on this thing today. I also have to pull a door card to adjust the angle of the rear glass track so will get a good opportunity to look inside and spray if deemed necessessary. So little surface rust anywhere on this thing I doubt it though. I just hate having Krown dripping out and messing up the paint and dry cleaning abilities.
 
Wayne, I "created" a torque strap for my Hemi 4spd car years ago (non power steering). Been working great for 40 years. Used to tell people it was the "rare optional for station wagons" factory piece. I can get photos for you if interested.
 
The front of the frame horns are different between early and late '66's to accommodate different styles of sway bar. I have the same "clamp-on" style bar on my '64 Polara. Compare the front frame rail from your '66 to your SuperBee. Dave
 
Also believe that someone mentioned the 426 HEMI sticker doesn't belong on the cleaner lid, just the maintenance decal.... if someone would be so kind to confirm I'll see if it peels...


Mine didn't have one and it was confirmed by the original owner when I talked to him.


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And I’ve seen some period magazine articles from the day where the air cleaner lacks the decal. Problem with some of those early magazine articles is knowing if the cars were an engineering mule or really an early production car. Some have shown a 22” radiator.
 
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