1966 Satellite S/S spring?

[Budnicks]

I don't want to get overly technical here, but scaling your car with 4 separate scales with you in it or preferably some weight, so you can see the scales or get a competent helper to record the weights for you & see what each corner actually needs, after getting the proper pinion angles &/or prelaod, for actual spring & shocks, it's the best way to know what spring rate is required, I would suggest moving the battery to the pass. side rear of the trunk to help offset the driver weight some, it helps weight transfer a ton it's like adding {2-2.5 lbs} for every {1 lb} you take off the front, when it goes to the back, especially when the weight is forward of the front axle/spindles &/or farther behind the rear axle the better weight transfers, Example = move 40lbs battery is equal to 80-100lbs of ballast when removed from the front & added to the rear & cleans up the engine bay also... Just my thoughts.... There is a decent book from Mopar Performance Like $30.00 "Chassis 9th Edition" Part #P5007160, it has some great formulas & combos for basics & expected performance etc., there are better books, but for your needs & expectations or combo, that's plenty I would think...

 

[robinsonwr]

I have the 3800 lb SS springs on my 66 Bel and they work very well on the track as well as on the street. 3255 lbs is a pipe dream, but whatever the weight is wouldn't you want to figure the as raced weight? I'm thinking 3700 lbs going down the track. I have weighed my 68 RR at 3500 and change and that's probably not far off from the 66. Then add about 200 lbs for a driver.

What kind of performance do you get with your combination? Is it a street driven car or purpose built race car?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Mine seemed to work GREAT with the 002 and 003 springs. Those are 2800 pound springs. My car was 2950 with me in it, if that gives you some perspective. But again, that's sorta apples to oranges since mine was an A body.

 

[Budnicks]

More information about the 66 Satellite if needed:
440/512 (Eagle 4.25 stroke, 7.1 rod 2.20 journal, .990 wrist pin)
11:1 Compression
Stealth heads (ported)
Weiand 8009 dual plane
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller(@ .050 230/236, ADV 281/287, Lift w/1.6 622/625)
2" primary headers w/3.5 collector
TCI Super Street Fighter Transmission
TCI 10" 3000 stall
8.75 sure grip w/3.23 (may upgrade to 3.55)
Rear Tires 275 55 14 with 14 X 8 (comparable to 255 60 15)
Power Band is 2200-6200RPM

The 3.23:1 gears & the 275/55/14 street tires are the big ET killers in that combo... lower gear like a 3.73:1-3.91:1 & taller wider stickier tire, will help a ton in ET

 

[robinsonwr]

The 3.23:1 gears & the 275/55/14 street tires are the big ET killers in that combo... lower gear like a 3.73:1-3.91:1 & taller wider stickier tire, will help a ton in ET

I am contemplating some 3.55's. I will have a set of 28 X 9's on 15 X 7 steelies for the track. I would like to see low 12's with high 11's once the suspension is tuned correctly. This one is going to be driven alot! I want to have fun, cruise, and show off the chrome.

 

[Meep-Meep]

What kind of performance do you get with your combination? Is it a street driven car or purpose built race car?

My car is very much a street car. With the 750 AFB and factory iron intake it runs 12.80's @ 107 on 9" slicks. That's through 3" noisemasters and nothing is removed from the car. I even have the spare tire and jack in the trunk. Battery is up front (but will end up in the trunk like Budnicks said). It's so tame my mother can drive it to the grocery store (so long as she doesn't floor it and scare herself When at the track I foot brake it and consistently cut .04 or better lights on a five tenths tree. My springs were marked with P/N 454 and 455. I said they were 3800 lb but may be 3700. But I do know they are not 3400 lb.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Us southern boys go a little heavier than that. lol

:rolling:

 

[RustyRatRod]

My car is very much a street car. With the 750 AFB and factory iron intake it runs 12.80's @ 107 on 9" slicks. That's through 3" noisemasters and nothing is removed from the car. I even have the spare tire and jack in the trunk. Battery is up front (but will end up in the trunk like Budnicks said). It's so tame my mother can drive it to the grocery store (so long as she doesn't floor it and scare herself When at the track I foot brake it and consistently cut .04 or better lights on a five tenths tree. My springs were marked with P/N 454 and 455. I said they were 3800 lb but may be 3700. But I do know they are not 3400 lb.

That sounds like a really FUN car.

 

[robinsonwr]

My car is very much a street car. With the 750 AFB and factory iron intake it runs 12.80's @ 107 on 9" slicks. That's through 3" noisemasters and nothing is removed from the car. I even have the spare tire and jack in the trunk. Battery is up front (but will end up in the trunk like Budnicks said). It's so tame my mother can drive it to the grocery store (so long as she doesn't floor it and scare herself When at the track I foot brake it and consistently cut .04 or better lights on a five tenths tree. My springs were marked with P/N 454 and 455. I said they were 3800 lb but may be 3700. But I do know they are not 3400 lb.

If you do not mind me asking how much gear do you have in the car? Is it a automatic or stick? I want my wife to be able to drive mine without being scared, also. I am not going to remove anything from my car either. I want a stock appearing grocery getter that will straight up get in your butt.

 

[383man]

My 63 weighs just over 3700 lbs with me in it and I bought the 3400 lb SS springs from Mancini and use the longer stock C-body shocks with them. They work fine for me as all the rest of my suspension is stock other then the 90/10 shocks up front.

My car hooks pretty good on them as I use a Hoosier radial slick 30 x 9. It will get air and has pulled a 1.50 best 60 running 10.70's so far. No magic at all just basic factory suspension. Ron

 

[Meep-Meep]

If you do not mind me asking how much gear do you have in the car? Is it a automatic or stick? I want my wife to be able to drive mine without being scared, also. I am not going to remove anything from my car either. I want a stock appearing grocery getter that will straight up get in your butt.

Right now I have 4.30's but those are too deep for my little cam (running the DC .455" / 272). For optimum 1/4 mile performance I think 4.10 or maybe 3.91's will do nicely. I'm running an auto with a 10" TCI street fighter converter and column shift. For true dual purpose 3.55's are great with this combo. I ran 13.30 @ 109 with 3.55's on street tires - as is non sticky off the shelf Cooper radials. I have a 6 BBL now and the difference is noticeable to say the least. Next week I will see what it does at the track. Oh yeah, engine is just a cast piston 440 (non stroker) with iron heads. Dirt cheap build.

 

[robinsonwr]

Right now I have 4.30's but those are too deep for my little cam (running the DC .455" / 272). For optimum 1/4 mile performance I think 4.10 or maybe 3.91's will do nicely. I'm running an auto with a 10" TCI street fighter converter and column shift. For true dual purpose 3.55's are great with this combo. I ran 13.30 @ 109 with 3.55's on street tires - as is non sticky off the shelf Cooper radials. I have a 6 BBL now and the difference is noticeable to say the least. Next week I will see what it does at the track. Oh yeah, engine is just a cast piston 440 (non stroker) with iron heads. Dirt cheap build.

Nice, you got that bad boy tuned. My camshaft should stop making power a little over 6K. I think the 3.55's will probably be the best fit. I am going to run the 3.23's and see how I like before making a decision. I know they are not optimum but I am after the fun factor.

 

[67 B-body]

Right now I have 4.30's but those are too deep for my little cam (running the DC .455" / 272). For optimum 1/4 mile performance I think 4.10 or maybe 3.91's will do nicely. I'm running an auto with a 10" TCI street fighter converter and column shift. For true dual purpose 3.55's are great with this combo. I ran 13.30 @ 109 with 3.55's on street tires - as is non sticky off the shelf Cooper radials. I have a 6 BBL now and the difference is noticeable to say the least. Next week I will see what it does at the track. Oh yeah, engine is just a cast piston 440 (non stroker) with iron heads. Dirt cheap build.

I'll trade ya your 4.30's for my 4.10's........:happy7:

 

[67 B-body]

I just looked my springs back up and they are advertised as 3,800lb springs....

 

[Meep-Meep]

I'll trade ya your 4.30's for my 4.10's........:happy7:

I'd do it tomorrow but they are not mine. I'm keeping the rust off of them for an old buddy :sideways tongue: I do have a set of 4.10's but I need to put them together.

 

[Meep-Meep]

That sounds like a really FUN car.

It's a kick in the pants. The car looks like absolute crap and everyone says to leave it alone. But I keep thinking I will get pulled over for driving a bad neighborhood car in a good neighborhood.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Nice, you got that bad boy tuned. My camshaft should stop making power a little over 6K. I think the 3.55's will probably be the best fit. I am going to run the 3.23's and see how I like before making a decision. I know they are not optimum but I am after the fun factor.

Well, I'm getting there. My cam says it's done at 5800 RPM and I tend to agree. At least with the stock 4 BBL setup. 3.23's are great street gears and those would be my choice for a high percentage of street driving. I have them in my GTS convertible and they work well.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Hey Rusty, here's my heap

 

[67 B-body]

Hey Meep,,, have you ever tried 3:55 gears?

 

[RustyRatRod]

It's a kick in the pants. The car looks like absolute crap and everyone says to leave it alone. But I keep thinking I will get pulled over for driving a bad neighborhood car in a good neighborhood.

Now that's funny right there.