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1968 B-Body handling advice please.

hudsonhornet7x

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Hello,

I joined this forum 10 years ago but have not posted much. I was directed to ask here about a project I have that I am hoping to get advice/guidance with.

The project is a 1968 Charger that is undergoing a complete, well I hate to call it a restoration because it sure is not that, I guess like a resto mod conversion.

It has a 470 stroker and I will be keeping the original K frame that I have fully welded and reinforced. The car also will have the USCT products and a S&W 12 point cage.

I would really love to recreate the vintage nascar look and also have a car that can be driven on the street and do okay on a roadcourse or autocross. I am not looking for large diameter wheels and rubber band tires even though that would make this goal easier to achieve. To me our B bodies look a lot better with tires that have a decent sidewall.

So, I am looking for resources and folks with experience to help me with my goal. I am sure I have not put down enough information so let me know what specifics you need that can help and I will do my best to answer in a timely fashion. Thanks to anyone who can help me get going in the right direction.
 
Maybe I posted this in the wrong section?
Not sure what would be the best section to post in. I think a lot of people are like me and just click on the "What's new" bar so you see all the new stuff regardless of subject. SuperBeeMike's thread is really informative though and seems to be pretty much in line with what you are considering doing.
 
We have similar desires. The focus for my 65 Coronet is road course/track events, auto cross, twisty road fun and the occasional drag strip run. My 65 isn't done yet, long term project but have gotten quite a bit done.
 
Shorter profile tires like these….

76B4A1F5-BB21-41B0-9133-B4ED593053C0.jpeg



Will give sharper and crisper steering response but you can still get decent handling with a taller sidewall. I too like the vintage NASCAR look with a car body draped over a wide stance.

027F5708-6D78-44B4-9A29-979199C3BA7A.jpeg


I went with stock based stuff instead of jumping on the “coil over” bandwagon with all of the compromises that come with that stuff. Big torsion bars, big sway bars, stiffer leaf springs abs better shocks.
You will be limited with your brakes if you’re insistent on a 15” wheel due to clearance issues. Many of the higher end braking options require a larger wheel to clear everything.
I have a moderate 13” front rotor that requires a 17” wheel as a minimum diameter. You can still fit a 12” rotor under many 15” wheels though.
 
-Larger torsion bars 1.04 to 1.22
-1 1/4” dia front sway bar
-Adjustable rear sway bar
-Bilstein RCD shocks minimum up to Viking double adjustables
-Borganson steering box
- 275 wide front and 275+ tires in rear
-at least 12” factory type “cop” front rotors. Larger diameter rotors will require 16” plus diameter rims
 
-Larger torsion bars 1.04 to 1.22
-1 1/4” dia front sway bar
-Adjustable rear sway bar
-Bilstein RCD shocks minimum up to Viking double adjustables
-Borganson steering box
- 275 wide front and 275+ tires in rear
-at least 12” factory type “cop” front rotors. Larger diameter rotors will require 16” plus diameter rims
Good advice.
 
The big sidewall look I agree with, but it includes a LOT of compromises for your goal of having all these improvements work together.
Most everything suggested so far can be done in steps with likely diminishing returns bang for buck for every considered upgrade.
IMO I would start with TB's, then SB, then shocks, steering box, and rear SB last to fine tune the whole package, being your tire choice is already chosen and limited.
Lots of room for improvement here, especially if chassis gets reinforced. Your last need will be a seat that holds the driver in place, you'll see. :lol:
 
Yes I did. And thank you to all the people who have replied so far. I did spend a little time yesterday looking at 17" wheels, just in case I change my mind. But I am steadfast on keeping the torsion bars, etc.
 
I too am keeping the oe based suspension. But there are upgrades to it. I'll never be able to outdrive what I have. But I can get more skilled which will be huge.
 
I went the Full Hotchkis TVS route and have ZERO Complaints.

This is a Perfect list, I would only add Adjustable Aftermarket Upper Control Arms and maybe Hydroboost
-Larger torsion bars 1.04 to 1.22
-1 1/4” dia front sway bar
-Adjustable rear sway bar
-Bilstein RCD shocks minimum up to Viking double adjustables
-Borganson steering box
- 275 wide front and 275+ tires in rear
-at least 12” factory type “cop” front rotors. Larger diameter rotors will require 16” plus diameter rims

If you want to keep the Torsion Bars, I would either call Peter at Bergman Auto Craft or the guys at Hotchkis

Here is my Car on 17's with the Full TVS and my Wagon with some Hotchkis Parts and 15's

Charger pic 4.jpg


Cropped Wagon.JPG
 
For the OP, the difference between 1.04 and 1.22 TB's is very significant. The 1.22 are not for the faint hearted, and 1.04 are a minimum in most cases IMO.
 
My 67 wagon will be getting several of the same upgrades the 65 is getting, just not as extensive. Like Derwud's wagon.
 
My 67 wagon will be getting several of the same upgrades the 65 is getting, just not as extensive. Like Derwud's wagon.

I would think SFC would be a high priority for wagon upgrades, but that topic seldom is mentioned.
 
SFC is one of the to do for sure upgrades. Will keep them simple. 2"x.090 or so material and just simple angle cuts on the rear and squared off with a rectangle piece to on the front. Not going to sleeve them into the existing rails like I've done on the 65, plus no 2x4 rectangle.
 
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