1968 Coronet 500 Project

[JimKueneman]

They are ready for 2000 grit, then the buffer.

Interesting so you stay that far away from the edges? So after you buff you can't tell where the sanding and non-sanded areas are I assume. Only that the sanded places are "more" perfect?

 

[jason79]

I stay that far away with 1500 grit. With the 2000 grit I get closer to the edge. Stay back about 1/4". If there are dust nibs closer to the edge I will hit them with the 1500.

 

[JimKueneman]

Jason what is the value of wet sanding the final primer before paint rather than dry sanding? I find I do a much better job dry, wet I am fighting the paper too much.

 

[Pistol Pete]

Running a piece of 1/2" tape on the hard edges will help you also until you get used to "sanding close to the edge."

 

[jason79]

Jason what is the value of wet sanding the final primer before paint rather than dry sanding? I find I do a much better job dry, wet I am fighting the paper too much.

Couple of advantages to wets sanding. 1 with dry sanding it is easy to take too much off. You are just trying to remove the orange peel, not actually block flat the panel. 2 eliminates dust and helps clean the panel. When you wet sand use like a 3x5 block. I think you have the durablock set? The small thin block works great for flat panels. Use a soft block for curved panels. If you feel like you are fighting the sand paper, try only using the leading edge of the block. Work in the x pattern and check your work often by wiping the panel with a squeegee and a dry microfiber. When the orange peel is remove the panel will have a flat look. Any little glossy spots still need some work. Add a few drops of dish soap to the water, it helps the block flow and prevents clogging the paper. 400 grit to remove the orange peel and 600 to remove the scratches from the 400. I don't wet the whole panel, just dunk my block in the water. You just need to keep the area your are working in wet, not soaked. Some guys just use a spray bottle.

 

[JimKueneman]

Couple of advantages to wets sanding. 1 with dry sanding it is easy to take too much off. You are just trying to remove the orange peel, not actually block flat the panel. 2 eliminates dust and helps clean the panel. When you wet sand use like a 3x5 block. I think you have the durablock set? The small thin block works great for flat panels. Use a soft block for curved panels. If you feel like you are fighting the sand paper, try only using the leading edge of the block. Work in the x pattern and check your work often by wiping the panel with a squeegee and a dry microfiber. When the orange peel is remove the panel will have a flat look. Any little glossy spots still need some work. Add a few drops of dish soap to the water, it helps the block flow and prevents clogging the paper. 400 grit to remove the orange peel and 600 to remove the scratches from the 400. I don't wet the whole panel, just dunk my block in the water. You just need to keep the area your are working in wet, not soaked. Some guys just use a spray bottle.

Thanks. Great explaination.

 

[JimKueneman]

I am not sure I understand what happened to the hood. It had a lot of peaks, not dents

but a few layers of high build, then some blocking and it is nice a straight

I am getting excited now. The Rube Goldberg paint booth is up and the panels are hung after I sanded out all orange peel and trash with 500 grit then wiped down with Wax and Grease Remover.

I then sprayed down the floor with water and squeegee it off twice. I will let it sit overnight to let the dust settle and shoot the SPI Epoxy with reducer as a final sealer first thing in the morning before the wind starts. If all goes well I will be shooting orange Sunday morning!

 

[Pistol Pete]

Hoods and to a lesser extent, decklids are funny things. The bracing underneath adds strength in those areas which can amplify issues when blocking. If you bear down on the block and/or use too short of a block, you can "create" your own artificial lows where the hood skin is un-supported.

It's all too easy to apply too much pressure when blocking, but it's the sandpaper that should be doing all the work, not you.

 

[JimKueneman]

Hoods and to a lesser extent, decklids are funny things. The bracing underneath adds strength in those areas which can amplify issues when blocking. If you bear down on the block and/or use too short of a block, you can "create" your own artificial lows where the hood skin is un-supported.

It's all too easy to apply too much pressure when blocking, but it's the sandpaper that should be doing all the work, not you.

I realized that very early. I applied virtual no pressure on either the hood or deck lid and used my 18" block. You could feel the high spots with your hand. It was weird. It is very flat now.

 

[jason79]

Looking good Jim!

 

[JimKueneman]

I could use a little prayer, heading out to spray the final sealer coat ready for color this afternoon….

 

[JimKueneman]

Success, except for one stupid move with knocking crap on the cowl then spraying over it…. light sanding in a few hours will take care of that. Spent the morning texting with Barry at SPI and I gave the game plan for the weekend… I should have an orange/black Coronet by Sunday Night..

 

[Pistol Pete]

Good luck buddy, keep us posted.

 

[JimKueneman]

Wet sanded with 500 grit and wiped down with Wax and Grease Remover… 45 minutes till orange…...

 

[JimKueneman]

What a looooonnnngggg day. All I can say is thanks to Barry at SPI. I started shooting the Orange and I had a panic attack as the wet sand marks popped out like crazy on the first coat. I texted Barry and a little adjustment to the reducer in the paint and 4 more coats it is 99.9% better. What a bloody mess my garage is now. I looked like a umpa-lumpa when I finished and there is orange dust every where….. but it is done…. Tomorrow layout out the hood and trunk stripes shoot a bit of black and it is time for SPI Universal Clear.

It is straighter than I ever thought I could accomplish and I am proud of that fact. I also got excited and wanted to see some details. The interior is black but I think I am going keep the inner door upper and lower panel orange with the black highlights. I may run a black strip down the middle where the placard is but I have not decided…

And then the icing on the cake….

 

[jason79]

Looks great! I like the orange and black combo. Clear goes alot faster than color, no sanding between coats. What stripes are you doing?

 

[JimKueneman]

Looks great! I like the orange and black combo. Clear goes alot faster than color, no sanding between coats. What stripes are you doing?

Can't find an example right now. More of a Plymouth strip that was on my old Sport Satellite. I wide stripe down the middle flanked by 2 narrow ones. I wanted something different and something to tie the black vinyl top and black rear panel and black trimmed grill together. I will likely paint the "500" center orange instead of red in the grill and rear trim.

 

[jason79]

Nice. Are you doing your own vinyl top?

 

[JimKueneman]

Nice. Are you doing your own vinyl top?

That is the plan…..

 

[jason79]

I did mine. Turned out pretty good. If I had it to do again, I would price it out to some installers. Only because the adhesive is very expensive. It cost me about $125 with the good buddy discount (my buddy is the manager) at NAPA.