1969 383 V8 Stock Engine Rebuild Cost?

[bassmun]

These guys are all giving you good, accurate advice. Is the 383 the original motor in the car? If yes, then definitely rebuild that one & follow the advice above. If it is NOT the original motor, you might consider seeing if you can find an aftermarket "factory stock" rebuilt engine, either 383 or 400, and swap them out. You can check your local parts stores or search online.

Hey PurpleBeeper, yes this is indeed the original motor. My father was the original owner, I still have all the paper work from when he bought it. So, I think your advice of going ahead with the rebuild is a fine idea!

 

[bassmun]

Wouldn't it be a good idea to contact the shops in your area to see what they would charge to rebuild your engine? You are getting replies from MN, NY, GA, NV, OR, IL and FA. I'm sure they really know what is going on in WV. Oh, never mind, what the heck do I know? I live in Podunk, ID.

That's some good advice! I know of a local guy I can contact who might be able to give me some leads on who to contact in the area.

 

[bassmun]

Prob not many will agree with me but if you just need low cost pretty much stock engine option.
Get a low mile 400 or 440 motor home engine. most of them can be had for under $1000 , cheaper if you look around. Its no Hp piece for sure but the one { 440} I grabbed is a nice running sound engine.
I reused parts off my 383 like the pickup tube & pan, my 383 headers , dip stick tube, water pump and housing, motor mounts ect. If you buy a cast crank engine that most MH are you will have to get the right balanced Tq. convertor if your car is a A/T.
From there you can just get it up and running or spend a few extra bucks on a intake and cam if you wish.
Everyone has a budget , some are big some are small, mine was small.
No regrets on my choice, 35K mile engine that runs good now, I had help from members on here working with the carb and cam & ignition. Its running just fine now.
My total cost was under $2,000 for everything done, up and running.
Plus you will still have your 383 if you ever wish to build it using a machine shop, new parts ect.

Just another idea or way to skin the low buck cat.

Thanks 1967coronet!

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Hey PurpleBeeper, yes this is indeed the original motor. My father was the original owner, I still have all the paper work from when he bought it. So, I think your advice of going ahead with the rebuild is a fine idea!

For a stock rebuild, I suggest you add hardened exhaust valve seats (I know a guy near me with 2 sets of '906/factory 68-70 heads for sale with them) and maybe a double-roller steel gear timing chain & the rest stock. If you swap out the motor MAKE SURE to keep the original one. REBUILD & ENJOY THAT CAR!!!

 

[mopar 3 B]

How hard have those 99,000 miles been put on?
Have you done the basics? Compression and leak down test. Might even find someone with an exhaust sniffer or even send the oil out to be tested.

Oil leaks do not always warrant a rebuild at that millage. Why waste money?

 

[BSB67]

How hard have those 99,000 miles been put on?
Have you done the basics? Compression and leak down test. Might even find someone with an exhaust sniffer or even send the oil out to be tested.

Oil leaks do not always warrant a rebuild at that millage. Why waste money?

Exactly. If I was on a tight budget, I would not tear into the shortblock unless I knew there was a problem. Put some decent heads on it, get it running, have some fun. In the meantime, figure out what you really want, and save for a good motor. Having a rebuilt 383 might be a little disappointing in the performance arena. Think mini-van type performance.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Exactly. If I was on a tight budget, I would not tear into the shortblock unless I knew there was a problem. Put some decent heads on it, get it running, have some fun. In the meantime, figure out what you really want, and save for a good motor. Having a rebuilt 383 might be a little disappointing in the performance arena. Think mini-van type performance.

Awww....even a stock 383 runs much faster than a mini-van, but I agree with yours and Mopar3B's idea to just "tune" it first, fix the leaks, etc. I didn't realize it only had 99,000 miles on it. With some TLC, it might go 40-50k more before it needed a rebuild....good point.

 

[BSB67]

Awww....even a stock 383 runs much faster than a mini-van, but I agree with yours and Mopar3B's idea to just "tune" it first, fix the leaks, etc. I didn't realize it only had 99,000 miles on it. With some TLC, it might go 40-50k more before it needed a rebuild....good point.

Hmmm. Much faster. Its relative. Dodge Caravan net hp = 285 hp, 383 Roadrunner, probably less. In the 1/4 mile, there is only about a 0.7 second difference in et and about 5 mph. The only reason the Roadrunner is faster is because is weighs 800 lbs less than a mini-van.

If you race a Dodge mini van against a Roadrunner, the RR will win, but only one person will be embarrassed, and it won't be the mom with the soccer kids and groceries.

Add a low $ rebuild to a 383. (verses the factory 383 hp) and the outcome will likely be more dismal. I don't mean to offend anyone, just a little reality.

 

[66Satellite47]

To chime in again, my '70 Baracuda 383 (original 2V, upgraded to a DP4B/780 Holley/headers) with 108,000 on the clock would hold it's own against most on the street. A small amount of attention to the heads, good valve job, a little pocket porting(tremendous power improvement), a modern slightly larger than stock cam will provide significant power improvements. Oil leaks can be easily addressed. My experience also was that oil consumption was mainly due to worn valve guides/seals. A 383 block does not wear severely like the GM stuff. If the motor had regular oil changes, the short block should be good for 200,000 miles easy, presuming it hasn't been subjected to 7,000+ RPM much. Attention to the heads will produce lots of power.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Hmmm. Much faster. Its relative. Dodge Caravan net hp = 285 hp, 383 Roadrunner, probably less. In the 1/4 mile, there is only about a 0.7 second difference in et and about 5 mph. The only reason the Roadrunner is faster is because is weighs 800 lbs less than a mini-van.

If you race a Dodge mini van against a Roadrunner, the RR will win, but only one person will be embarrassed, and it won't be the mom with the soccer kids and groceries.

Add a low $ rebuild to a 383. (verses the factory 383 hp) and the outcome will likely be more dismal. I don't mean to offend anyone, just a little reality.

Dang it....you make a good point.

 

[BSB67]

Dang it....you make a good point.

And to be clear, I am talking in generalities. Could there have been option less, 4-speed, bench seat, 3.91 gear set RR that would run a 14.30 @ 98 mph with a good driver, probably. But most were closer to 15.0 @ 94.

My 1968 4 bbl Charger with 60,000 original miles ran a 15.4 @ 92 mph back in the mid 1970s.

 

[bassmun]

To chime in again, my '70 Baracuda 383 (original 2V, upgraded to a DP4B/780 Holley/headers) with 108,000 on the clock would hold it's own against most on the street. A small amount of attention to the heads, good valve job, a little pocket porting(tremendous power improvement), a modern slightly larger than stock cam will provide significant power improvements. Oil leaks can be easily addressed. My experience also was that oil consumption was mainly due to worn valve guides/seals. A 383 block does not wear severely like the GM stuff. If the motor had regular oil changes, the short block should be good for 200,000 miles easy, presuming it hasn't been subjected to 7,000+ RPM much. Attention to the heads will produce lots of power.

This is all good news. My father didn't drive the car hard. Perhaps I should start by sending my carburetor off to be rebuilt and replacing the rusted leaking exhaust headers. Maybe doing that would be enough for the time being. At least then I could drive it to the body shop to have the floor pan replaced!

 

[PurpleBeeper]

This is all good news. My father didn't drive the car hard. Perhaps I should start by sending my carburetor off to be rebuilt and replacing the rusted leaking exhaust headers. Maybe doing that would be enough for the time being. At least then I could drive it to the body shop to have the floor pan replaced!

I like your approach...makes sense. It won't be a Hellcat, but it will be a VERY NICE, QUICK, SPORTY CAR (that nobody in your neighborhood has).

You mentioned "rusted out headers". If you mean "aftermarket headers" and the car is almost perfectly stock, you might consider some factory stock "high performance" exhaust manifolds. A guy just posted a set for sale. Headers make more power for sure, but you won't give up all that much horsepower on a relatively stock engine with stock manifolds...your preference/your car.

Oh yeah, and change out ALL the fluids....antifreeze, oil, brake fluid, rear end gear lube, transmission fluid, etc. if the car has sat for more than a year or two and DEFINITELY drain out the old gas if it has sat for more than 3-6 months.

 

[bassmun]

I like your approach...makes sense. It won't be a Hellcat, but it will be a VERY NICE, QUICK, SPORTY CAR (that nobody in your neighborhood has).

You mentioned "rusted out headers". If you mean "aftermarket headers" and the car is almost perfectly stock, you might consider some factory stock "high performance" exhaust manifolds. A guy just posted a set for sale. Headers make more power for sure, but you won't give up all that much horsepower on a relatively stock engine with stock manifolds...your preference/your car.

Oh yeah, and change out ALL the fluids....antifreeze, oil, brake fluid, rear end gear lube, transmission fluid, etc. if the car has sat for more than a year or two and DEFINITELY drain out the old gas if it has sat for more than 3-6 months.

Hey PurpleBeeper, you are correct. Turns out I was calling the exhaust manifolds "headers". The ones on the car are indeed the original factory manifolds complete with the heat riser valve! I need to replace both of those as they are severely rusted. I also need to replace the pipes running from the manifolds to the mufflers since they are also rusted out and all taped up. Luckily, Yearone sells a complete exhaust manifold kit with all the bolts, gaskets, and both the left and right manifold for $563. That's not too bad!

 

[66Satellite47]

bassmun, FYI OEM exhaust manifolds are always rusted, which is NO PROBLEM since the cast iron is so thick. The heat riser valve typically "freezes up" in some location or the bimetal actuating spring fails. They can be freed up or rebuilt. There are at least 2 versions of exhaust manifolds for the '69 383, HP (like on a Road Runner), or standard, which did come on at least some 383 4bbl's. HP versions are a real plus. Significant performance gain achieved from switching to full length tubular headers. If you need new pipes, no real advantage to sticking with OEM manifolds (other than they are a bit quieter). With a mild 383 a 1 3/4" primary header is the largest to consider. Also unless you are going for a "Resto" deal I sure wouldn't consider the Year One manifolds. My humble opinions.

 

[wyrmrider]

I agree with many of this page posters
99k 383 my still have reusable bores requiring only rings
(although carb motors do not get the mileage of today's FI motors)
I've gone over 300k with several big block Mopars of your vintage.
dbl check which heads are on it and report
The timing chain is junk so think new cam and lifters and timing chain
you are most likely going to need new guides and depending on the head a larger exhaust valve (find some take outs) and new HP springs
you can't tell if the exhausts seats are gone till you get the heads off
as another poster suggested do a compression and leakdown test first
you may find that the ring seal is just fine and all you need is the head work

Do not be in a hurry to take out the pistons check the deck height on all four corners and write it down if you have to re-ring
find the oil leak- usually main seal or valve covers
center two exhaust valves go first so dbl check there on each head

use the premium viton seals when rebuild- if burning oil it's usually the guides/ seals- you say not running or you could test

once you get the deck clearance cc the heads yourself
what head gasket did you find- stock shim or has it been replaced?
If replaced mic the bores
calculate your compression accurately
great project
383 mopar trumps 383 chevy
I take it this was not an HP motor
see if your pistons are true FT or have a small dish